General Anvil Related Questions

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GatorFlash1 said:
This isn't a shed to store the mower and rake. This will have some heavy, possibly pounding equipment. A power hammer for steel blades will definitely shake your world. Those 32" footer will only be about 15" long.
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Hi,
You guys have all been great!
Please excuse my ignorance on the subject of blacksmithing and /or constructing a shed designed to be used as a place to do some pounding.
That said, sounds like my type of idea, to somehow bring in a power hammer, maybe on the small side , and already have a planned space to be doubled up with cement thickness.
My main inspiration for the shed is:
No garage, no shed(yet), and basement with very low ceilings, hitting head on heating pipes is a problem.
Did I say the basement is already filled with a wood shop and small pace to work with metal, lathes, mills, drill presses, one TW90 2 by 72" belt grinder. Lots more old wonderful tools.
Sooooo, I like OVERKILL, As long as I can afford it.
Thanks,
Jon
 
OK so you might put a power hammer in the shed.

You could dig footings clear to china around the exterior of the shed and as long as your slab is only 4-6 inches thick you will gain nothing, most heavy equipment will have a dedicated block of cement directly under the machine 2 to 4 times larger than the footprint of the machine, you would also put a 1/4 felt strip around the the block to isolate the building from the vibration.
 
Hi john,
Thanks , could you tell me how deep the slab should be in the area of the power hammer footprint
Where , would be the best placement for this extra cement.
I plan on working outside with smaller anvils and in real cold, maybe bring the forge inside, but have heard the need for heavy air replacement and exhaust. I have an extra vice to set up outside along with a vertical RRrail for a anvil. in keeping that triangle, is there a special place for the heat source if you are right handed?
Thanks a lot in advance.
Jon
 
I would lay the shed out like this if the power hammer is to heavy to move, a clear area around the hammer would be important so you have room to work.

If your hammer is a light version, 50lb hammer on a steel tube frame, I feel like a 6 inch slab would be more than adequate, then you could place the hammer wherever you like, inside or out

I would think a block 12" thick with at least 18" all around should be good

Forge placement is a question that would be best answered by a person that does a lot of forging, I'm just a lowly builder ;0)


shedstuff_zps55f56ca9.jpg
 
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I have been around the concrete industry for 35 years in one form or another - some good suggestions. 6" floating slab with a thickened edge - 12" wide and another 6" deep, #4 bar on 12" centers placed on chairs to keep it in the middle of the slab - place an additional 3 pieces around the perimeter. Cut it so it breaks where its supposed to - not over 10'. Get a 4000 psi mix from the redi mix plant - 30% rock, 4" slump - don't pour it too wet. Don't bother with the fiber mesh. If you are going to put a power hammer in at a later date, I would cut the floor open and put in a seperate foundation - 2' deep with alot of bar and an isolation joint between it and the floor slab. Overdig the slab and put in 6" of compacted AB-3. Cure it with water, or if you don't want the mess, use some poly, wet burlap, curing compound, etc. If you haven't poured/finished concrete, and want to do it yourself to save money, find somebody to help that knows what they are doing so you get a decent finish. This might be a bit of an overkill, but for a 150 sft building, its not going to cost that much more to do it right - you don't know what you are going to do with this building at a later date so you might as well be prepared.
 
SinePari said:
86 the power hammer and get a forging press! = Concrete arithmetic solved.
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Hi,
Excuse my ignorance, but will it do everything a hammer can do?
I assume anything less than 1/2" would not work as well.
Also, I heard of the higher tooling requirements, but once made, (not for awhile) , it can do almost all of what a hammer can do.
That is a great idea, will this press need a big compressor, i guess that could go towards the back of the shed.
I would probably choose the machine that would let me be more creative and let me do things that might take too long otherwise. The decision would to add one of these machines would never be based on a desire to do production work, for this is to much fun , and will stay a serious hobby.
Is it a better way to forge ?
Thanks,
Jon
 
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Ome108 said:
Hi,
Excuse my ignorance, but will it do everything a hammer can do?
I assume anything less than 1/2" would not work as well.
Also, I heard of the higher tooling requirements, but once made, (not for awhile) , it can do almost all of what a hammer can do.
That is a great idea, will this press need a big compressor, i guess that could go towards the back of the shed.
I would probably choose the machine that would let me be more creative and let me do things that might take too long otherwise. The decision would to add one of these machines would never be based on a desire to do production work, for this is to much fun , and will stay a serious hobby.
Is it a better way to forge ?
Thanks,
Jon
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It can do anything and everything a power hammer can, and more. Find a hydraulic log-splitter and convert it to a vertical forging press...
 
+1 on the vapor barrier. If you plan for a power hammer, try to predict where it
might go and pour an extra thick section there.

Sorry, didn't see Stevewest's comment.
 
Bill Hoffman said:
+1 on the vapor barrier. If you plan for a power hammer, try to predict where it
might go and pour an extra thick section there.

Sorry, didn't see Stevewest's comment.
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Hi Bill,
Thanks, I see you live in CONN, We are in NY.
I thought only vapor barriers in warmer climates.
Here our frost line is 36" deep.
How deep is it over in conn. ?
Thanks,
Jon
 
42". I have a 110# Big Blue Hammer. I poured a 2' wide, 4' long, 3' deep foundation with 4 anchor bolts.
Hammer is solid, my wife can't hear or feel the pounding in her studio just above my forge area. However,
the rest of the floor is dirt, so there's no direct connection to the house. The large base works very well.

Vapor barrier is very important if you want to reduce the rust potential in your shop area. Without it, moisture
will move through the concrete and raise the humidity in the shop. I live in the house in which I spent my
childhood. My dad added the shop/ studio area many years ago. He didn't place a vapor barrier under the shop
floor and it's been a problem ever since. I've killed 2 dehumidifiers since my wife and I took over the house.
 
Bill Hoffman said:
42". I have a 110# Big Blue Hammer. I poured a 2' wide, 4' long, 3' deep foundation with 4 anchor bolts.
Hammer is solid, my wife can't hear or feel the pounding in her studio just above my forge area. However,
the rest of the floor is dirt, so there's no direct connection to the house. The large base works very well.

Vapor barrier is very important if you want to reduce the rust potential in your shop area. Without it, moisture
will move through the concrete and raise the humidity in the shop. I live in the house in which I spent my
childhood. My dad added the shop/ studio area many years ago. He didn't place a vapor barrier under the shop
floor and it's been a problem ever since. I've killed 2 dehumidifiers since my wife and I took over the house.
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You can spray the top of your slab to reduce the moisture flow.
 
John Katt said:
The OP said nothing about a power hammer, beside who would put a power hammer in such a small shed ;0)
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I agree, if he is just storing and using some simple tools he could put it over a 6x6 pressure treated frame. I was assuming he was going to do some serious blacksmith type knife making which usually involves some sort of power hammer.
 
Hi and thanks for so much excellent information,
Could you please explain what you meant by
" Cut it so it breaks where its supposed to ".
In reference to the rebar.
Thank You,
Jon
 
Hi STEVEWEST, and thanks for so much excellent information,
Could you please explain what you meant by
" Cut it so it breaks where its supposed to ".
In reference to the rebar.
Thank You,
Jon
 
Bo T said:
You can spray the top of your slab to reduce the moisture flow.
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Vapor barrier below the concrete is essential. If you only have a coating on top the moisture will still wick up through the concrete and eventually cause the top coat to blister and peel.
 
Is this really needed for a shed, 10 by 14'.
I asked the cement company if a vapor barrier was needed, and they said not necessary where our location is.
Jon
 
Ome108 said:
Hi STEVEWEST, and thanks for so much excellent information,
Could you please explain what you meant by
" Cut it so it breaks where its supposed to ".
In reference to the rebar.
Thank You,
Jon
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he is not talking about the rebar but the hardened concrete. rent an abrasive saw and make a two inch deep cut across the slab in the middle. that way when the ground moves and the slab shifts it will crack in the saw cut and not all over the place.
 

Hi guys,
I was going thru the forum search engine to find information on 4140 as a steel to harden and use as a post anvil.
Old world anvils provide a hardening process to a piece of 4140.
They are not that heavy, 4" by 4" by 4" or
Slightly larger.
May only be 10:1 ratio based on a 2-3 lb hammer.
Does anyone have any experience with this company?
Is there a better steel to use "as is" when cut to size for a post anvil?
Thanks,
Jon
 
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