Getting annoying...knife I pick has something wrong!

Kman300: Seriously, don't take this wrong, but you may want to come up with a different way to phrase field dressing an animal, or butchering at home other than "doing an animal". For some reason, it brings up images of Rick marchand and Pitdog that are best left unimagined. :p

The three knives you posted first: F1, Bravo-1 and ESEE-5.
Bravo-1, legend has it that it was spec'd out by a Marine Recon unit as their "one knife"
ESEE-5: Spec'd out by Air Force SERE instructors as their "one knife"
F1: doesn't claim such an illustrious beginning, but spec-wise, there's no reason it won't do the things the others will. Falkniven are considered high-end knives by most. They're all great knioves and will do what you want.

IF you still want to go higher-end, the Busse and Busse kin knives (Swamp Rat, Scrapyard) will be tougher, but really won't cut better. Some Busses in that size range you're looking at are the ASH, Tank Buster, SFNO, SARsquatch, FSH, Skinny Ash, Hellrazor -- from thickest to thinnest. I don't know the SR and SY equivalents, but the others have already mentioned several. You can also look at Fehrman.

Fact is, on the InTeRwEbZ, you're going to find people who will piss and moan and denigrate any choice you make. So, just pick what looks good and refine it from there (there's a reason we have dozens of knives, we buy what looks good to begin and our tastes refine from there, it's not just a compulsion to buy more steel, though that plays a part).


Now, in reality (and I harp on this a LOT), you really want a system on knives. Look at what people who LIVED what we take as hobbies. What did they use? Let's look at Sami moose hunters (since that seems to be the hardest task you want to put these through). They'd carry a puukko as a daily-use utility knife. A Leuku would be for some machete-type tasks (cutting light brush and such) and some of the moose/other critter butchering, and an axe for the heavy work. If you can't carry those 3, get stronger. BTW the axe can be a small 14 incher, a 19 incher, maybe even a 25 incher, I'm not talking a full size felling axe here.

In reality, you want to do everything? Great pick:
1.) Small utility knife. Can be a cheap ass Mora, or a better puukko style like the Jarvenpaa Lapp or Aito, the Helle Viking, or the full-on, balls-out modern ones like the Skookum Bush Tool, Koster Bushcrafter, or the Fiddleback or Brian Andrews versions. It can be an ESEE-3, a Busse BAD, or any other small knife. Don't be stupid and pry with it, and you won't have to worry about it breaking.
2.) Decent filet knife.
3.) Midsize knife. This can be one of the thinner 6-inch blades mentioned earlier, or a Leuku, or a Chef's knife. It's for butchering and food prep mostly. It's not a Rambo knife, and doesn't have to be thick (in fact the thinner the better for those uses).
4.) Big chopper. Can be a large knife, a machete, an axe, or a kukri. This is your heavy worker, and is the only one that needs to be able to take punishment.

When you go out, you determine which of the set you will need, and you don't have to bring them all.
 
Kman, you are getting razed because 1. You bought a knife then decided it wasn't good enough beause someon on the internet said so. 2. you did again with a second knife and have now bought a third. 3. Even after the majority on here told you the knives you have,had are good enough, you keep adding to the list of requirements the knife must meet...including going from -40 to 98 degrees quickly etc.... Spread peanut Butter and hack through the sternum ofa moose. Read that list and try to it seriously....without laughing.
The knives you have are good knives from good companies. Use them enjoy them. And seriously, test themout before deciding they are not any good. These are not 30,000 dollar cars, they are 200 dollar knives. If you already own them (which you said you did) then use the..what is the harm?

As for the Rambo knife comment..that was me. It had nothing to do with the size of the knife but was more of a comment on the type of knife person you seem to be. Wanting the biggest baddest knife that is perfect for everything including speading peanut butter.

Just chill and use the knives you have...again...theyare great knives.
 
Kman300: Seriously, don't take this wrong, but you may want to come up with a different way to phrase field dressing an animal, or butchering at home other than "doing an animal". For some reason, it brings up images of Rick marchand and Pitdog that are best left unimagined. :p

:eek:
 
Ya need a ChopWeiler....

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By pitdog2010 at 2010-09-30

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By pitdog2010 at 2010-09-30

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By pitdog2010 at 2010-09-30
 
Name any product.

I bet I can find someone on the internet who broke it and insists that said product is crap.

-Stan
 
kman there is no knife being produced that will suit your needs. i think you may need to design your own peanut butter spreading moose cutter. sorry for the bad news.
 
Pit - the OP don't need a chopweiler -- I need a Chopweiler!
(and a knatchet, and a hatchula, and a ......)
 
G'day August West

No probs hlee, I am a bit of a broken record :D However you left off SouthernCross.

SouthernCross- kman don't listen, all these guys are keyboard commandos and and their mom won't let them have a knife.

Now that I'm thinking about it....how do we know that's you in the pics..HMMMM. ;) Chris

:D

Just in case you didn't notice when you read my original contribution to this topic, my comments were directly related to the comments that were included in the quote at the start of my post :thumbup:

Just in case you missed this, I'll show the original quote again...


So I started researching knives a while ago and thought I made up my mind. I ordered a Fallkniven F1. Then I do some more reading and find out that the tang is narrower and that the handle can break since it sits on top of the spine of the knife.

So I order a bravo 1 no ramp from the same place and then I find these threads about the ceo of the company ripping off people and also a series of youtube videos where the edge is folding and the knife didn't hold up very well.

So I spent ~$350 or so and I still don't have a knife people say is good.

Since you seemed to have assumed that my original comments were directed at everyone here who has responded to the original comments, can you suggest some other way that I can comment on a specific item, rather than quoting the comments that I am responding to?

I would appreciate it if you could, that way I can avoid offending those oversensitive types who are looking to take offense at my comments. :thumbup:


I realise you know virtually nothing about me, so I'll give you some background that may help you put my comments into perspective. I have been a contributor on the Fallkniven forum for over 6 years (and after originally declining, a moderator there for about 2 years). During this time I cannot recall a single post that has shown a broken tang on the F1. :eek:

So where has this idea come from: "Then I do some more reading and find out that the tang is narrower and that the handle can break since it sits on top of the spine of the knife"?

If it is based on informed opinion (by this I mean that someone has managed to break the tang of the F1 in real world use) I would like to see it. Can anyone supply a link that shows this has happened in real world use?

Or is it based on the widely held internet opinion that only a full tang knife won't break in hand held use?

Maybe all these experienced knife users (reference to those in the quote who think that anything other than a full tang can break) should immediately get in contact with Mors Korchanski & tell him he's got it all wrong in favouring Moras :eek:

With regards to the Bravo 1 destruction test that shows a buckling of the edge after batoning, I'll repeat my comment when this came up on the Fiddlebackfordge forum some time back:

"After the strike with the batton at 5:14 (and whilst the edge is engaged with the knott), he adjusts the handle slightly to the side before striking it again. IMO this has set up the lateral stress on the edge which has caused the buckling.

Is this a fault of the knife or a fault with the batoning technique? "

Now before the usual caveat of "I need a knife that can stand up to anything that might be needed in a survival situation", I have two questions to ask of those who spout this view.

(1) Don't you have the skills necesary to use a knife properly?

(2) Please show me that your activities put you in a position where a survival situation is a real possibility rather than a theoretical possibility?

I appologise if my honest opinions offend any who read them.




Kind regards
Mick
 
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G'day GoNadz


This thread makes me angry. Kman, have you actually experienced these supposed shortcomings, or are you dismissing two perfectly good knives as crap based on a few (and I'm sure it's a small number) reviews you've seen/heard on the interwebs? Sounds to me like you just bought these knives, then let someone else decide for you that they're no good. Opinions are like arseholes (we all have 'em, and they all stink), man, and it sounds from your first post that you haven't taken the time to actually have enough experience with either knives to form your own opinion.
+1

Thank you for putting my original post into perspective :thumbup:





Kind regards
Mick
 
G'day Pit


Whether you can use finesse and get the job done with certain knives is Irrelevant, you are wanting a knife that will not fail you whatever unexpected tasks arise.

You have doubts in ya head about the two knives you currently have, whether founded or not these doubts will not go away and you will never be totally happy carrying them.......
Since the OP has already spent the money, why not encourage him to see for himself whether or not the knives he has purchased can be trusted?

The reason why I say this is I rember one of your posts some time ago that originally led me to joining this forum :D

IIRC, it was a post where you asked about whether or not Fallkniven & Bark River were hard use knives. You even went so far as to suggest that there wasn't much evidence that this was the case. :eek:

If I also remember correctly, at the time I referred you to the Fallkniven forum where you could see ample evidence of this being the case in real world use. After all, you are also a member of knifeforums.com, so you could look at the available evidence that had been previously posted on the internet. :D

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but I don't recall you responding to my first post. :D

Unfortunately the search function only appears to let me search my last 500 posts, otherwise I would provide a link to this :D

I also seem to recall your willingness to dog pile on the recent anti-Bark river post on the Fiddlebackforge forum post here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781983

Just to remind you, have a look at post number #16 , # 55 and #57.

Based on what I've seen so far, it seems to me like you have an anti-Fallkniven & Bark River agenda :thumbdn:

I truly mean no offense by this, but rather, remind you of your previous posts and show you why my opinions are what they are :D




Kind regards
Mick
 
G'day Hlee

.....I've read enough from Southern Cross that I don't even have to read it anymore, so I generally don't even see it anymore. "For this, on him I must put ignore."
This is wise advice :D

I really have nothing to offer you :thumbup:

After all, I'm really only jealous that your "wilderness areas" actually come with sign posts lmao :D


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regards
Mick
 
That's a lot of knives you've bought without trying the first one ....:confused:

Personally I have had the B1 and F1 and moved them on .... never had the ESEE .... the F1 grips were'nt right for me .... the B1 was better but not as good as other knives I subsequently tried ....

For -40 use I would prefer an enclosed tang and a good Rubberised grip .... the S5LE or S5SE from Scrapyard which is in Infi or a S5 which is in SR101 ( 52100 ball bearing steel ) are good and even better is a Busse Basic 5 but they are rare as hen's teeth on the Busse Exchange ....

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The Basic 5 is the top one and is .25 thick with a great Assymetrical Grind ... the S5LE is below and is .187 thick and has a normal convex edge .... it also has had the spine ramp removed as I don't like them ....

The main advantage is the comfortable grip in such cold conditions and the ability to avoid "cold weld" from the steel which once at -38 and below is as you will ( should ) know " instant" upon contact .... especially if the knife is in a pack and not warmed by your body. They have a lifetime no quibble warranty and will stand up to batonning through frozen bone if need be .... although for the extra weight a plastic handled folding saw would be worth considering.

I like a 4-5 inch blade for my belt carry knife and have tried and tested a number .... including the Ratmandu which I also rate highly and two are in the pic below above the S5LE ....

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I am not going to bang on about your choices etc .... or how you butcher your game .... but I would consider a Grans For Brux Hunters Axe were I doing what you want to do. If I break a leg whilst hunting at -40 I know I need a fire to survive and I won't feed a fire with a 4-5 inch knife .... plus if I wanted to butcher a Moose as you do an Axe would split bone quicker than a saw and have me sweating a lot less .... important at -38 when hypothermia is a real risk ....
 
I really have nothing to offer you :thumbup:

After all, I'm really only jealous that your "wilderness areas" actually come with sign posts lmao :D



Mic, I never really had a problem with you, and I feel you have a vast knowledge of wilderness and skill. However, you really feel that insulting other's areas or ideas of wilderness is going to prove something.

Yes Austarlia has vast areas of "wilderness" and it can be tough to get by, but you have no idea what it is like in subzero temps with 3-5 feet of snow on the ground. Allthough you think your trees are made of concrete, and ours are silly putty; you have never experienced using that wood while it was frozen.
You also don't have experience in some of our rain forrests, where you can spend days soaking wet and cold.

So before you go insulting our idea of wilderness, why don't you come on over and experience it first.

In the mean time, feel free to post your experience of your wilderness, but leave your antagonistic posts about others out of it.

Respectfully,

Tony
 
I like my Moras. I like my Busses. If you don't like either one, or any of my other knives, you can go pack sand. Buy what you like. Use what you like. That's all I have to say about this thread.

ETA: I lied. :p Just wanted to point out that some of the bickering I see above would be right at home in Prac Tac. :D
My caliber choice is better. No! My caliber choice is better! (insert bushcraft knife for caliber choice).
My Gingko-Gitsu is better. No! My Gingko-Gitsu is better! (insert wilderness for Gingko-Gitsu and wilder for better).

Don't get me started about fatwood. :p
 
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To Kman300. There are 100 different reasons why you are catching flack. Pretty much all of them boil down to your apparent inability to take the sound advice of the other members here. Not to mention the exceptional oddness of the first post, and the general abrasive nature of your posts in this thread in general.

The best advice that you have been given to date is to get out with the knives that you have, and start using them for what you intend. This may come as a surprise but, knives are not cars. If you are a big guy you can roll the seat back in a car, but if you have a hand larger than the handle of a knife no amount of adjustment will make it comfortable. The converse is true as well, but to a lesser degree depending upon the design of the knife. Likewise, car rags can give you in depth specs about a vehicle. Torq, 0-60 times, cornering performance, breaking capability, visibility, turning radius, etc can all be measured and compared to others vehicles within and outside of the test car's class. However, the most critical component of knife design- personal comfort when performing- cannot be tested by the assembled masses of the internet.

Any sharp object can be made to cut- August West has made this abundantly clear- and primitive cultures have done it for 10s of 1000s of years with broken bits of rock and bone. This is the function of a knife, afterall. Besides, as Southern Cross has pointed out on a number of occasions, there is nothing in North America that should even begin to test the capabilities of a knife. The assembled masses have given you a plethora of options to replace the knives that you have bought. And, as I and others have attempted to point out, there is nothing that cannot be done with a thin and inexpensive mora if you apply your brain to the task. None of this seems to have had an effect, so you have taken some ribbing. For that, I do not apologize.

I own several knives, and one of them is a scrap yard dogfather. I bought it because I like knives, I wanted it, and I can afford it. There is no reason to qualify my purchases to myself or anyone else. As I have stated, I use a knives of alaska caping knife (cub bear) for my field dressing, skinning, and quartering tasks. This year I took a spyderco bushcraft knife for those tasks, because it is new, I had sharpened it to a scary edge, and I wanted to try it out. Luckily I got the chance, but I found that it was more knife than I wanted for the task. I will again have my cub bear at my side when I head out for pigs in the next month or two. But that will not stop me from taking one or two other knives. This is a knife forum. We like knives. SURPRISE!

Just to recap...

August West- "Get you a good tin can lid."

Southern Cross- "Why bother with anything, North America is a disneyfied version of Disneyland compared to where REAL MEN roam..."

Me- "Use your brain, man."

Pretty much everyone else- "You've got 5 great knives for their intended purposes- Dozier (Why are you replacing what most would regard as the pinnacle of hunting knives anyway), Falkniven, Bark River, Forschner, and ESEE-5. Get out and use them!"

Sound advice...
 
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