Getting nice clean edges with stock removal

[darrylburke]

I've been playing around with a few "Attempts" at making a knife, and I'm curious to the techniques that people use for getting nice clean edges when grinding away the bevels (or any angle cut..)

I assume it has a lot to do with using a proper grinder.. (Vs a hand file.)

 

[Terry McMaster]

It does have a lot to do with equipment, but practice a patience play a bigger role. What are you using for a grinder now?

 

[darrylburke]

Originally posted by Blind Dog
It does have a lot to do with equipment, but practice a patience play a bigger role. What are you using for a grinder now?

I have a basic grinder with a 1 X 30 belt, and a 8" disk. (1900 rpm)
(Havn't done a knife on it it.. just got it..)

it's the first time I will be using a tool rest, so I figure I should be able to get a half decent line on the grinds..

I've also been curious on the shoulder grinds.. would it be better to use a file to get the nice round shape? or use the belt?

Thanks..

 

[E.V.Chavar]

The first thing that I do with a new contact wheel is to break the corners. That is to say that I take a file and give the edges of the contact wheel a slight radius. Some guys use a radius gauge, but I just "eyeball" it. Don't overdo it as the wheels sharp corners will brake down naturally as the wheel is being used. I also let the belt drift over a bit on the side that I am grinding. This combination of things should give you the nice radius that you are looking for. The rest is practice. Hope this helps you.

 

[rlinger]

I wish I knew, except that (for me) its all in the touch. Just takes a little experience to get the feel. Pretty soon you're not too scared of ruining that freshly profiled expensive steel.

You mention 'shoulder grinds'. That, I guess, is the 'plunge' cut? The area that the grind starts at and closest to the front of the handle??? Two small pieces of steel clamped to the blade (sandwiches the blade) will act as a boundery that the belt grinder stops at and helps keep both sides even (something taught me by Itrade who learned it from Bruce Evans).

Roger

 

[Nathan House]

Profile some knives from wood and grind on them.They grind fast and you can see your mistakes.When you switch to steel
you will have a much better feel of what you are doing.Wood is good to pratice on because 1 it is cheap and 2 it does not eat belts,save your good steel until you are grinding good lines.
On the plung cuts,I do something I do not know if any one does it this way but I start in the middle of my blade and get a bevel going and then I work back to were the plung is,you have much better control with a bevel all ready in the blade,just my thoughts.

 

[Mike Hull]

You want to be careful trying to radius the corners of a contact wheel, those factory edges are there for a reason. I have seen very few makers happy with the results of trying to custom radius one of those, including myself.
Just track the belt off on the side you will be grinding on, and push a piece of scrap against it at a 45 degree angle to round the edge of the belt, like stated above, and you will be fine. If you want a guide, Sheffield knifemakers supply has them for about $20.00.
Good luck.

 

[Chuck Gedraitis Knives]

I know that some makers also take a round file (1/4)and make the inital plunge cuts that way. You can make them nice and even. Then after you grind the blade you can use a dremel with a 1/4in drum sander and polish and even them up.

 

[Mike Hull]

Originally posted by striper28
I know that some makers also take a round file (1/4)and make the inital plunge cuts that way. You can make them nice and even. Then after you grind the blade you can use a dremel with a 1/4in drum sander and polish and even them up.

You can also use a round file to round the plunge. Just flatten one side of it, on the belt grinder platen, to make it safe. You won't scarf up the blade surface that way.
Chainsaw files work best, as they are not tapered.

 

[L6steel]

Quickest way to ruin a contact wheel is to listen to people giving advice to round over the edges. I did it and ruined a brand new 10" wheel. I grind with the wheel just like it came from the factory.

 

[L6steel]

More stupid advice not to listen to, remove the grit shiled from your grinder.
Don't remove the grit shield on your grinder, it's there gor a reason.

 

[Nathan House]

Mike
On all my wheels there has been high spots on the edges,the belt want to ride the high spot and will not track. I lightly touched the edge and it fixed the problem.

 

[darrylburke]

Originally posted by rlinger
I wish I knew, except that (for me) its all in the touch. Just takes a little experience to get the feel. Pretty soon you're not too scared of ruining that freshly profiled expensive steel.

You mention 'shoulder grinds'. That, I guess, is the 'plunge' cut? The area that the grind starts at and closest to the front of the handle??? Two small pieces of steel clamped to the blade (sandwiches the blade) will act as a boundery that the belt grinder stops at and helps keep both sides even (something taught me by Itrade who learned it from Bruce Evans).

Roger

I found the following, in a book I got today...

just curious if anyone uses this method..

 

[Jim Smyth]

I used an old file and took off some rubber off each side of my new 10" contact wheel. It gives a nice radius and works well for me. I personally like more of a rounded grind line. It takes a while to get used to, but to each there own.

 

[Nathan House]

Jim
I to like a rounded shoulder,A square shoulder looks like a factory made balde,rounded shoulders take a little more time to learn
to do,but they are well worth the effort.

 

[Mike Hull]

A square shouldered contact wheel does not have to make square, or straight plunge cuts. With the belt tracked off properly, it makes a rounded plunge. I've never seen it any other way. To get a straight plunge cut, you would have to not track the belt over the edge of the wheel. That would quickly ruin the contact wheel, as metal would cut into the wheel sides.

 

[tom mayo]

I round over the edges of every contact wheel I have, and so do most of the knifemakers I know...........


The real secret of knifemaking is the same secret to anything else in life..........practice, practice, and practice some more!!!!

 

[Nathan House]

tom
You have that right,I am finally coming into my own after alot of grinding.but the journey has been a fun one

 

[C L Wilkins]

Originally posted by tom mayo
The real secret of knifemaking is the same secret to anything else in life..........practice, practice, and practice some more!!!!

Oh great, Tom! It ain't a secret no more!

 

[Matt Shade]

I think people get too hung up on the plunge cut when they start grinding. Its really not that difficult to get a reasonably good plunge if you just take your time. Rather thah worrying about grinding the plunge in. Just form one as you grind.
Take your blade blank after its been profiled and turn the cutting edge up like you will hold it when you grind. Now scribe a line, or file a tiny notch where you want your plunge to start out.
Now start grinding and make sure that every pass starts or ends at that line. More than likely it will round itself out for you just through the course of grinding. As you get closer to finishing, the blade will probably be a little thick around the plunge, and thats the time to concentrate on the plunge, and grind it deeper or clean it up with a file.
The most important thing is to just get some time at the grinder without obsessing over the small stuff. It will all come together with some practice.