Getting started with mousepad blocks, decent stones and strops

[Treemo]

What type of stone for the edge grinding? Just cut into to it until it's all level?

And then take, say an Atoma, regrind it and then start all over again? Yikes, sounds a bit out of my skill level!

It's still sharp in that "recurve" spot, would it eventually join in with the rest of the blade after years of sharpening and use?


May have to practice on the damaged kitchen knives first. Thank you again for the expert advice.

 

[Jason B.]

An easier way would be to raise the spine to 45 degrees and grind at a high angle until the edge is flat. From here it's not too difficult to then lower your sharpening angle and regrind the edge.

I would recommend a stone of 300 grit or less for this task.

 

[Treemo]

You're right, of course. Concentrating hard on the knife will reveal a recurve and it lines up perfectly with the faint unscratched areas. It's also a sudden bend on the middle on the knife and fades away into the heel a little slower (but the heel has a decent flat section).

Seems like cutting into a stone would be easiest until it levelled out. Does doing the 45 degree method just grind off the most metal so it's quickest?

 

[HeavyHanded]

If possible in this situation, I try to straighten out the edge with least material loss. If I can remove some from the heel and get the low spot to line up with the belly/flat right before the belly, I'll do that. If I can remove some material from the belly and get it to line up with the heel, I'll go that route. If its dead in the middle, you'll probably have to remove from both sides.

However you work it down, either straight grinding into the stone or at a 45, you're still referencing the new edge line to the lowest spot on the edge and then re-setting the bevels. Is the same amount of material ground off, but at a 45 it might feel a bit easier when time to reset the new edge bevel.

 

[Treemo]

Makes sense, thanks HH.

I'm still debating whether or not to rip in. Yes, it's a $30 knife but I don't want to screw it up.

Ordered all my machetes so some new files are on order too as the Nicholson I got has already rolled the teeth. Pferd may be on order when I get around to it.

 

[awestib]

An easier way would be to raise the spine to 45 degrees and grind at a high angle until the edge is flat. From here it's not too difficult to then lower your sharpening angle and regrind the edge.

I would recommend a stone of 300 grit or less for this task.

If possible in this situation, I try to straighten out the edge with least material loss. If I can remove some from the heel and get the low spot to line up with the belly/flat right before the belly, I'll do that. If I can remove some material from the belly and get it to line up with the heel, I'll go that route. If its dead in the middle, you'll probably have to remove from both sides.

However you work it down, either straight grinding into the stone or at a 45, you're still referencing the new edge line to the lowest spot on the edge and then re-setting the bevels. Is the same amount of material ground off, but at a 45 it might feel a bit easier when time to reset the new edge bevel.

I use my Norton Crystolon coarse or fine stone for this task (depending on damage/recurve) and yes, it makes you cringe at first. I use an angle that is somewhere between 45 and 90 degrees. High enough to get the job done quickly, low enough to be able to drag/move the blade over the stone easy enough and controllable. I try to have a back light so I can see better where I am at with my flat grinding. I use my stones dry for this. Once the edge is flat and even, I use the crystolon stone to set the new bevels. Depending on the knife and how well I know it, I use one of Fred Rowe's angle wedges to make sure I am right on. Often I use my Spyderco Sharpmaker for the final touch so I have to make sure the edge angle is less than 20 dps. freehand. I can finish a knife completely freehand but for some reason I do adore the knowledge that everything is as symmetric and controlled as possible while not reaching out for a guided system which I don't like.

 

[Treemo]

Used a 12 inch single cut smooth file to shape and rebevel, all the way to the tips on the Tramontina machetes and then tidied up with the mousepad block as I'm still waiting on the stones. Very sharp now and pleased with how good I got it with just the file. Running it over the mousepad enhanced the sharpness to a significant degree. Not too concerned with the overall sharpness with basic clearing tools (I know they will hit the dirt/stones). Also filed the scales flush and began treatment on the handles with BLO and turpentine. No mods on the machetes, bar a change to a convex style edge and sharpening the tips.