Ghetto Bushwacker CE

In the morning light, I did a little more sanding on the BWM. Horton says he can get a satin finish on INFI in 15 minutes on his machine. Not on mine. After 3 hrs sanding, the dimples are still visible, as is the little hole or dent.
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So I just went to 180 and then 400 grit and smoothed things out and gave it the Scotchbrite wheel treatment. Ghetto satin it will remain. :D
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tomthebaker said:
Maybe "Urban Satin," a step or two up from "Ghetto."
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Just wait until the pros start doing these. They will look even better than the LE model. Since I no longer live in the ghetto or an urban area, I'll just call it Redneck Satin Finish. :D
 
HD, By the looks of that last picture like Lil' foo said your knife is getting smaller. Man your going to have her whittled down to nub.:D She looks fine.:thumbup:
 
How did you do the ricasso and butt? I know I can't do flat griding like that on my HF, it chatters badly. :mad:
 
resinguy said:
How did you do the ricasso and butt? I know I can't do flat griding like that on my HF, it chatters badly. :mad:
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I'd have to remove the scales and use the platen to sand those. I never do that on Busses. Mine are just brushed with Scotchbrite. Let those dimples shine!
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I love the way you've done it man. Complete satin just makes it look good. But the way you've done it it looks good and means business.

I never striped a blade, a question does the blade heat up when you do that how do deal with it in order to avoid messing up the heat treatment?
 
:) No HD just joke'n with with ya, Man I just wish I was as good as you with the convex edge job. It looks great. Its a user and you've got it fixed up perfect. IMHO:thumbup::thumbup:
 
Volk said:
I love the way you've done it man. Complete satin just makes it look good. But the way you've done it it looks good and means business.

I never striped a blade, a question does the blade heat up when you do that how do deal with it in order to avoid messing up the heat treatment?
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Some steels heat up fast. But on a big blade in INFI, it only gets warm. No problems. My bare hands are holding the blade, so I can feel any heat build up. I keep a bucket of water nearby to cool the blade if necessary. Smaller blades will heat up faster. Some other steels tend to heat up fast, too, but not INFI.
 
It's been a busy couple of days messing with the Bushwacker. Time to celebrate the New Year with da yoots. Happy New Year, Hogs!
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Nice work mate. That finish looks great. Like a hard user should look. Love the convex grinds on those models too.
 
Horn Dog said:
Some steels heat up fast. But on a big blade in INFI, it only gets warm. No problems. My bare hands are holding the blade, so I can feel any heat build up. I keep a bucket of water nearby to cool the blade if necessary. Smaller blades will heat up faster. Some other steels tend to heat up fast, too, but not INFI.
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+1. You can get some heat build-up while working near the tip, otherwise the mass of metal absorbs the heat. The only time I have had a blade get really hot is when I was using the disc sander to grind a clip point onto a SARSquatch, and really pushing it against the disc. Then the water bucket was needed.
 
Thanks guys :thumbup:

If I finally bring myself to pull the trigger on the BW (its BW or prep courses for LSAT) I'm gonna try striping it (or I'm just gona send a message to Jerry asking if he could not coat one for me, who knows that might work).
 
Volk said:
Thanks guys :thumbup:

If I finally bring myself to pull the trigger on the BW (its BW or prep courses for LSAT) I'm gonna try striping it (or I'm just gona send a message to Jerry asking if he could not coat one for me, who knows that might work).
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Let us know if Jerry will sell you one unpainted. That would be my preference as well. I like the CE models that came with convex edges and no paint. But rust issues with the decarb layer might have discouraged Jerry from doing more of them. At the very least, a bead blasted version (double cut) of each model would be nice. I just like the look of bare INFI, and it is so easy to maintain.
 
Yeah the rust was one of my worries as well, i know I'm not using them as my diving knives thats for sure. However I asked around regarding INFI knives rusting and I was told that while they are far from stainless steel they do resist rust well.

I clearly remember Jerry doing a poll an weather he should do the uncoated blades, I think people liked the idea. I appreciate the coating for what its worth, however I had slight issues with my BATAC, Jerry has since re coated the blade for me at no charge, and that wasn't the main issue for which it was sent to Jerry. However all that said, the way that my coat was coming off from everyday use wasn't uniform, closer to the tip it would just crack and fall of, and on the chopping side it would get smoother and finer then it would recede. Granted that didn't effect the function of the blade at all, but I figured if the blade is going to loose its coating might as well look good at it.

I'm not a fan of knives that reflect light a lot though, What I was thinking if I can have two tone blade, that way I'd still get some protection from the rust and have the chopping/cutting surface striped.
 
Nice work Horn Dog. Those last pictures looks to be a great balance of satinning and refraining from removing too much stock. The remaining INFImples give it a nice rustic look.

For coatings I think I like the old matte coating, well at least the looks of it, better. The newer coating is likely better but does not display as nicely in pictures. Not really a concern but more of an observation.
 
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