Goodbye original edge, hello WEP

Jaytaylor

Jaytaylor

Joined
Feb 9, 2012
Messages
1,720
I've been hanging onto the original edge on my primary EDC for dear life but........I'll let the photos do the talking.

Edge5.jpg

Edge4.jpg

Edge3.jpg

Edge2.jpg

Edge1.jpg


Now that the horror show is over its time to sharpen her up and here lies the problem for me - Spanto. (3.5")

I've been using a Wicked Edge Pro for a while now but never on a Hinderer, I've gone through all the WEP/Hinderer threads but still have a few questions regarding the sharpening angle and set-up on the WEP.

I want to match the original primary cutting edge as close as possible, too often I see spanto blades sharpened too acute pushing the shoulders back way too far and ruining the aesthetic of the spanto grind.

From my observations the original cutting edge has a varying angle - it looks fairly acute and consistent from the choil, along the straight to the start of the belly, then it blends into a more obtuse angle through the belly to an obtuse angle at the tip. I would like to keep these angles and avoid pushing the shoulders back along the belly to the tip.

Coil
Choil2.jpg

Tip
Tip1.jpg


My questions are, w.r.t. using a WEP on a 3.5" Spanto -

What set-up do you use? A, B, hole position etc.
What angles are you guys using to get the close to the original grind?
Do you vary the angle from the choil to the tip?

If you could post photos of the sharpened edge that would be superb.
 
I use the lansky system and not on a hinderer...yet. but its pretty much the same concept. I can however tell you that it is normal that the edge angle changes troughout the length of the edge. If you just fix your clamp at the end it will gradually become more shallow near the tip. If you'd rather have a wider tip angle and a shallower angle near the handle, just clamp it closer to the tip. I'd advise you a 25° angle on both sides, if its not shallow enough, you can always move to a 20° angle, but the opposite is harder. If you got from 20° to 25° you'll have to remove a lot of metal. So i'd recomend you to start on a higher ° angle.
 
Just did an XM-24 Spanto to a mirror polished finish. For the XM-18 3.5" I'd put it in the bottom holes, letter B-1/2, always use a digital angle guide (if you have the new arms that you can dial in at exactly the same degree). If not I'd set the left arms to 22 degrees & the right arms to 23 degrees to offset the blade thickness. That's why the new arms are perfect because you can dial both sides in at exactly the same degree using an angle finder.
The edge bevel will come out consistent & even if done right, don't need to vary the angle of the choil area to the tip or anything technical.

XM-24 Spanto in Wicked Edge by ⓂⓄⒹⓘⒻⓘⒺⒹⓏ, on Flickr

XM-24 Spanto in Wicked Edge by ⓂⓄⒹⓘⒻⓘⒺⒹⓏ, on Flickr

XM-24 Spanto in Wicked Edge by ⓂⓄⒹⓘⒻⓘⒺⒹⓏ, on Flickr
Everything will be even, though its natural for the bevel to get wider where the 2 grinds meet at the tip because the shoulder is thicker there.
 
Jay- I will take some pics when I get home of my 3.5" that I did on my WEPS to almost hair splitting sharpness.
It won't look like Mods edge (that is beautiful) I did some of my "other" knives to that finish, it was fun. Don't know that I will keep them that way but time will tell.
My XM - Did it at lower hole, "B" (I think) I will check my log book and did 22*. No the bevel thickness widens a bit at the place you'd think it would. I did not get to wrapped around the axle with meters and microscopes simply because I thought about it and the "free-hand" that initially sharpened it certainly did not use such devices and I can't argue with the result. Granted that was Rick and nuff said but the exactness offered by the WEPS with the clamping and such - I figure good enough and it has been. Won't argue with that result either.
I clamp verticle, set the two sides (the same) and have at it. It's been working (look at my finger):)
 
mod, how did you get it that shiny ? i Always have tiny marks on the blade, I use 1 micron dmt paste to polish...
 
Raphael.caluwe said:
mod, how did you get it that shiny ? i Always have tiny marks on the blade, I use 1 micron dmt paste to polish...
Click to expand...

100-1000 diamond, then micro fine ceramics 1.4micron/0.6micron, then 1200/1600 ceramics, then stropped with 5 & 3.5 micron diamond paste, 0.5micron/0.25micron, 0.125 micron/ 0.050micron diamond sprays on kangaroo leather strops.
 
ah, i do exactly the same, but dont got the sprays... will need to get those! =D
where can i get those btw ?
 
How exactly do you use the angle cube. I have one, but haven't used it yet, because I've been too lazy to figure out how. Sometimes my bevels come out wide near the tip, which usually pisses me off. I definitely don't have the patience for a mirror polish. I go to 1000 with the diamonds, then strop. seems sharp to me.
 
Magnet or hold it on the WEPS arm when the paddle lines up with the bevel if you want to read current bevel angle OR to adjust to what angle you actually want it to be.
Apparently the new arms allow for exact adjustment vs the arms that you get the approx. based on the drilled holes in the rail it glides on.
 
Thanks, I'll try that. So, if it needs adjusting per the angle cube reading, I simply adjust the arm on the angle rail?
 
duro said:
How exactly do you use the angle cube. I have one, but haven't used it yet, because I've been too lazy to figure out how. Sometimes my bevels come out wide near the tip, which usually pisses me off. I definitely don't have the patience for a mirror polish. I go to 1000 with the diamonds, then strop. seems sharp to me.
Click to expand...

If your bevels are coming out wider at the tip, you just need to bring the knife back towards you. For ex, if you have it in letter C, I'd bring it back to letter B.5. You can use a sharpie on the edge or what I use is a 40x or 60x jewelers loupe to inspect the edge to see exactly where it needs to be to get the bevel even along the straight, belly, & tip. The angle on the belly & tip change pending where it's mounted. Generally the further up you have it the lower the angle which makes the edge wider.
 
I understand your desire to keep the original bevel. I myself don't mind lowering the shoulder and I have, in fact, changed my edge angle to 20*. I use the level app on my iphone too like an angle cube. Other than that I just use a sharpie and this chart to get it right.


sweet-spot-on-a-curved-knife by GermoneGold, on Flickr
 
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I love to sharpen on the WEPS when the edge warrants it but....this is my EDC and has been for a couple years now and this is all I have ever done to maintain this edge. Yes, this is the knife that went half way thru my finger and into the bone.
I strop it on this old belt with some car wax and it turns paper into little swirly hairs (Spanto Grind)

I LOVE this Knife
20130108_132829.jpg
 
I just ordered the new Pivot/Arm upgrades for my WEPS!!!! I've not had a problem with the older style pivots but I just want to keep up with the latest technology! Thanks to ModZ because I didn't even know there was an upgrade except that I saw the pivots in his photos looked different so I went to the WE website and found the upgrade package!
 
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