Goodbye original edge, hello WEP

Great thread and fantastic results! Here's my method:

- I like doing convex edges, so I will do 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 with each stone ... very time consuming but it looks great! Sometimes I just do 20 or 21.
- If I need to reprofile or the blade is in really bad shape, I start with the 50 diamonds.
- Move up to 100, 200, 400, 600, 800 and 1000
- I may or may not use the ceramics ... I have mixed feelings about them (the 1200 and 1600) ... They are too cloudy.
- I cut strips of 3m auto sandpaper 1500 and 2000 grit, tape them to the stones and I go at it
- I add cape cod polishing paste to the sandpaper
- Finally I strop with 5 and 3.5 micron paste

I never tried the spray or finer stroping compounds but my results are excellent. If I need to refinish, I start at the highest grit possible.

I too had a lot of problems with wider tips but practice and finding the right position solved them. Use a Sharpie and a fine stone to make sure you are hitting it right.

Here are a couple pictures of end results. Sorry, I never touched my XMs with it.

This is a cheap practice blade with nondescript steel, but it works:

we_zps11678174.jpg


And looks good as well:

Coast22_zpsfad5f7e8.jpg


And (again, sorry no Hinderer) the original bevels on this damascus were not good and it was driving me mad so I gathered some courage ...

Large21BarkMammothDevinThomasLadderDamascusCopy_zpsd1c64cd1.jpg


Anyway, I read that there are new arms? This is what I have ... are there new (better ones around)? I am perfectly fine with these....

we2_zps3cbd5586.jpg


OK .. I have to add some Hinderer content (untouched as it is) to belong :)

XM-18byRickHindererCopy_zpsdb919140.jpg
 
I always thought for a convex edge you would start at the steeper point then go wider, say start at 20 degrees then do 15, rather than start at 15 and then do 20, please comment.

I have the new arms, got them as an upgrade, they are a LOT tighter, less flop and then are nice to use.
 
I always thought for a convex edge you would start at the steeper point then go wider, say start at 20 degrees then do 15, rather than start at 15 and then do 20, please comment.

I have the new arms, got them as an upgrade, they are a LOT tighter, less flop and then are nice to use.

It is very possible that I am doing it backwards (I learned by trial and error so...) I start with 17 for the secondary bevel and finish with 20 or 21 for the proper edge. ... I just figured that I want the very edge to be the last thing I touch to avoid messing up with debris and what not (and the strops blend it all together anyway).

I will try the other way around with my cheap blade next time, see how it works.

I have to find out about these new arms!
 
Just got my new arms in and there is a noticeable improvement in the action and tightness of the rotation of the arms. I didn't have any trouble getting a wicked edge before but I figure every bit of precision can only help give my knives a better more perfect edge.
 
I am about to pay off a credit card. I've been in credit card debt pretty much my entire adult life. I'm going to reward myself for paying off this card by buying a Wicked Edge. (and no I won't be buying it on credit!)
 
Staying Hinderer related for the thread topic...... You can send/receive a lot of XM's to the Ranch (for sharpening) for the cost of a WEPS.
For day-to-day maintenance, it's overkill.
A belt stropping has kept my EDC crazy sharp for years. A steel or SM would do the trick as well.
Jay (the Op) had in his pics, some edge damage....stropping wouldn't help that, even the SM would be questionable
Then, a trip back to the Ranch or a system such as the WEPS would be required.
For detailed Sharpening expertise, the sub-forum Maintenance, Tinkering and Embellishment is a wealth of information.
For our purposes (here) lets share "Hinderer-centric" info. :)
 
Staying Hinderer related for the thread topic...... You can send/receive a lot of XM's to the Ranch (for sharpening) for the cost of a WEPS.
For day-to-day maintenance, it's overkill.
A belt stropping has kept my EDC crazy sharp for years. A steel or SM would do the trick as well.
Jay (the Op) had in his pics, some edge damage....stropping wouldn't help that, even the SM would be questionable
Then, a trip back to the Ranch or a system such as the WEPS would be required.
For detailed Sharpening expertise, the sub-forum Maintenance, Tinkering and Embellishment is a wealth of information.
For our purposes (here) lets share "Hinderer-centric" info. :)


Sorry for derailing the thread. I got carried away. I posted a pic of an XM though :)

"You can send/receive a lot of XM's to the Ranch (for sharpening) for the cost of a WEPS."

True, but the WEP is cheaper than a therapist :)
 
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