Gorilla Super Glue?

DustinHall said:
What he said.

edit: Anyway.. Jim, if you've had success with it, that's great. Like, I said it wasn't bad at all. I believe it's a tough enough glue for moderate use knives but, I popped some scales off without too much effort that were glued on with it and my prep was 50 grit sandpaper and an alcohol wipe down. Then again, I have some limb tip overlays made out of micarta glued onto my recurve with the stuff and they're holding up just fine.. who knows.
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Here is one of " my moderate use " Skinners that a bushcrafter is splitting logs with. Yes he is driving it with a hatchet. That is "MY"
Knife. I don't make a moderate use knives. I make hard use Tacticals and Bushcrafters. I am proud that my clients can and do use them that way. Here is the review from Bushcraftusa

i thought id do a quick review on a knife i purchased from jim adams on the above site

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i was looking for a knife with a full size blade but a bit shorter in the handle to compliment the large camp knife that chevin made for me. i saw this and it fits the bill

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i didnt get it to do things like this but i couldnt resist giving it ago, and it performed realy well.

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it works well when teamed up with a large knife or an axe

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even after being used for carving and battoning, it was still sharp enough to be used for food prep

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appoliogies for this shot its ment to show the knife in its belt sheath but was a self portrait!

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this shows the knife with a completed spon that i carved with it

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this is the bif knife that i already owned, i bought the black toe knife to complement it

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a shot of both knifes together in their resptive sheaths

all in all im very happy with my purchase and will deal with jim again
 
That's not unique... Zap and some other manufacturers make a similar rubberized cyanacrolate glues and been doing it longer. They're just not sold in the local stores. Thanks for taking the time to copy something off of the label though.

I'm not trying to argue with you but when you make a claim of "I know what it takes" then please provide me data.
 
I just bought some of the Gorilla Super Glue earlier today and tried it out. It worked really well and it was so fast to work with. None of this waiting around for epoxy to set up. I basically just cleaned and sanded the parts really well, applied the glue and stuck the scales on. It was like 2 minutes later I could already start shaping, drilling holes, and grinding the scales down. Quite the time saver. As I mentioned before, all my tangs are peened together so the strength of the glue after that is not even an issue. It is a lot less messy to work with than the epoxy as well. I am not entirely sure I would trust it without peening the pins though, but then again, this was only my first experiment with it and I can definitely say I like it.
 
I wouldn't trust using glue to attach scales. I would rather drill some holes through the scales and frame and attach them with some screws.
 
BlackToe Knives said:
I just stated I use GSG. I was pretty much been called a dumb ass. I was told it was OK to use on "moderate use" knife. Then someone said it would be ok if I screwed the handles together. Then someone told me I have no Right to know what makes a good knife.
I took two years of physics in college. I can actually do the math on forces on the joints and pin and scale. Like I said before they are minimal once you pin the handle. Once you pin the handles. You have to add the force it take to shear the pins or pull the pin out. Depending at what angle you are applying the force. So if Elmer school glue could bond metal and material it would work if it was also water proof.

Once again it is about if 300lb, 400lb or 1000lb rope holds a 10lb anvil better. You all want to think this great super anti force is applying force to your great knives and your magically glues are holding them together. In fact your 90 year old Aunt Bessie applies more force when she tears off a paper towel than is applies to any one joint on your great super knives with your magical glues.
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The GSG is really good stuff. I'm not going to bother using the messy epoxy anymore. I'm sure the GSG like you said would do the job on it's own, I just tend to like peening the pins on my handles because it seems the traditional way to do things...considering I make mostly early style knives, pre 1800ish. Thanks for suggesting this product to me, I like it a lot.
 
R.C.Reichert said:
The GSG is really good stuff. I'm not going to bother using the messy epoxy anymore. I'm sure the GSG like you said would do the job on it's own, I just tend to like peening the pins on my handles because it seems the traditional way to do things...considering I make mostly early style knives, pre 1800ish. Thanks for suggesting this product to me, I like it a lot.
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Thank you. Yes peening would be traditional.
 
I would really like to use the Gorilla CA, but there's like zero work time, right?
I mean, when I use 30 or 60 minute set epoxy, I have plenty of time to wipe the ricasso clean of any excess epoxy, and not have to rush.
 
BlackToe Knives said:
I just stated I use GSG. I was pretty much been called a dumb ass. I was told it was OK to use on "moderate use" knife. Then someone said it would be ok if I screwed the handles together. Then someone told me I have no Right to know what makes a good knife.
I took two years of physics in college. I can actually do the math on forces on the joints and pin and scale. Like I said before they are minimal once you pin the handle. Once you pin the handles. You have to add the force it take to shear the pins or pull the pin out. Depending at what angle you are applying the force. So if Elmer school glue could bond metal and material it would work if it was also water proof.

Once again it is about if 300lb, 400lb or 1000lb rope holds a 10lb anvil better. You all want to think this great super anti force is applying force to your great knives and your magically glues are holding them together. In fact your 90 year old Aunt Bessie applies more force when she tears off a paper towel than is applies to any one joint on your great super knives with your magical glues.
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I never intended to make you think you are a dumbass but, if that's what you want to think then fine. I simply shared MY experience with the glue and my opinion on what I think of it. I never claimed to disbelieve your success with it and definately wasn't trying to start an arguement. I agree that glue/epoxy is just extra insurance and pins, especially peened, are what secures the handle and keep the glue bond from breaking under sheering forces. But we're talking about glue and not pins so your Aunt Bessie arguement is a moot point and kind of contadicting to yourself because your magical 'truck and ton of bricks' lifting glue is meaningless when "any one joint" on a knife is subjected to less force than tearing a paper towel off the roll.

Kind of strange to get defensive just because somebody doesn't think your favorite glue is superior.. :confused:

P.S. - That's a nice looking knife you posted pictures of. How much force is actually applied to the HANDLE when battoning the BLADE through birch logs though? My guess is not much but, then again I didn't take 2 years of physics in college...
 
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You are right, But you suggested It might would work on my "moderate use" knives. Just stab me in back.
p.s. Thank you
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I never said your knives were moderate users. Infact, I think they look very well made, Jim. Anyway, maybe I should have thought more about it before I used the term "moderate". With pins and normal use (not abuse), I'm sure GSG is a fine adhesive for scales. Like I said, it's held my limb-tip overlays on my bow without trouble for hundreds of shots!
 
OK, you guys convinced me. Who would have thought super glue talk would have gotten heated. I just bought two bottles of the Gorilla Super Glue. I figured I would try it out myself.
 
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