Got any idea what batteries I should get for a flashlight in my car?

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Aug 31, 2017
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I have a big 6 D cell Maglite and the batteries in it went from 1.68v to 1.33v by just sitting the flashlight in the my for two months. Flashlights don't work if the batteries get to .9 and it will get to there in another two months. Anyone rig any outdoor stuff with batteries and can recommend what kind of batteries you (use that are cells)? I can get adapters to step up if you use Cs or AAs or something, but I'm curious what's best for outdoor. So far I know:

Li-ion: NO (cold weather decimates these)
Alkaline: NO (drains in heat probably in cold too)
NiMh: Ionno
NiCd: Ionno
 
Also, you don't want to leave Alkaline batteries in anything for a long time, they will eventually leak, most likely right when you need the device.

I carry Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMh) cells in all of my bags/cars without a problem. They're "dry" cells so at least if they leak a little gas they won't destroy the flashlight, but they are much less likely to leak than Alkaline batteries.

For reference, I carry two extra AA batteries with me in my backpack because I typically carry an AA light. I also carry two extra AAA batteries because the back up light I carry in the same backpack takes AAA batteries.

ETA: If it's really something that worries you then you could always put a small piece of tape over one of the positive terminals on the battery to disrupt the circuit, that will reduce drain also.
 
Whatever batteries you use they should not be stored in the flashlight unless that is unavoidable.
My solution was to get a Fenix UC35, which is a USB rechargeable, and just plug it in once in awhile on long drives to keep it ready to go. I've had it three years.
 
As above, don't keep your batteries in the flashlight ;) (unless you feel you must o_O). I keep mine (plain alkaline) in the original package along side the flashlight, works for me. :) YMMV
 
I keep lithium batteries in my truck flashlight. Have lasted much longer than the old alkaline.

I live in Vermont. Temperature range is mid-90s to 30 below. The alkaline batteries were very poor in the winter.
 
I did some small photovoltaic installs out west on detached out buildings. These were small set ups using only one or two 4'x4' panels to power lights and garage door openers. Since the buildings were not climate controlled we had to protect the batteries from temperature extremes. The solution was a regular cooler with a hole cut in and pvc pipe affixed and vented outside.
My take away - One could store batteries in a small thermos to protect them from extreme temps.
 
Oh man I have no clue now. I'm thinking of keeping the batteries in the first aid pouch and for them to be NiMh or Li-ion now. Not sure which but I'll have to decide because either way it's $70 some for the batteries and charger.
 
Oh man I have no clue now. I'm thinking of keeping the batteries in the first aid pouch and for them to be NiMh or Li-ion now. Not sure which but I'll have to decide because either way it's $70 some for the batteries and charger.
You can get that Fenix uc35 for under $70 with USB charger cable. It's the old model (the one I have).
 
I found this very interesting. Thanks everybody.

I have a 3D Mag light for my vehicle and I live in OH. It gets cold and hot. I'm thinking a stainless vacuum thermos with blue tape on both ends of my batts, basically stacked on top of each other and placed in my survival tote? If I wrap the batts in Seran wrap, I could use it for water if I ever had to.
 
Easy. One of the oldest items I own is an original Surfire 6P in aluminum. I've had it with CR123 cells in my car for over 20yrs. I 'think' I am on my third, or possibly 4th pair of cells. I mainly only use it for the occasional roadside assist, or checking my oil, or tire-pressure at night.
 
Living in earthquake country, we have several emergency lanterns that run on D cell batteries. I wanted to be able to keep one "ready to go", so I came up with this solution. If you search for "Titanium Innovations Battery Adapter PARALLEL" you'll find a "D" size adapter that you can put 3 L-Ion AA's into. This gives you 9000 mAh per adapted cell, and that's not much less than the average D cell (8900 mAh - 12000 mAh) battery. The L-Ion won't leak and will work in the cold. Just make sure you buy the PARALLEL battery adapter that outputs 1.5V, they make a series adapter too that outputs 4.5V.

Good luck!
 
Living in earthquake country, we have several emergency lanterns that run on D cell batteries. I wanted to be able to keep one "ready to go", so I came up with this solution. If you search for "Titanium Innovations Battery Adapter PARALLEL" you'll find a "D" size adapter that you can put 3 L-Ion AA's into. This gives you 9000 mAh per adapted cell, and that's not much less than the average D cell (8900 mAh - 12000 mAh) battery. The L-Ion won't leak and will work in the cold. Just make sure you buy the PARALLEL battery adapter that outputs 1.5V, they make a series adapter too that outputs 4.5V.

Good luck!
This is def what I'm going to do as I have premium enloops in my 3D maglite now and they've work great since enloop used to be sanyo. I'm get um...wow 3x6=18 more and the adapters for them. the 3D eats the single AA to D adapted ones up but I hardly use it. With as much as I use my 6D it will need the extra amphours that the tri adapters use.
 
Whatever batteries you use they should not be stored in the flashlight unless that is unavoidable.
My solution was to get a Fenix UC35, which is a USB rechargeable, and just plug it in once in awhile on long drives to keep it ready to go. I've had it three years.

not trying to be contrary...but don't "rechargeable" devices run off batteries / "cells"-- usually Li-ion also?
 
not trying to be contrary...but don't "rechargeable" devices run off batteries / "cells"-- usually Li-ion also?
Of course, but I can charge it in the vehicle while driving and without having to remove the batteries from the flashlight. Therefore, my emergency flashlight always has a near full charge.

ETA - as you pointed out, we are dealing with batteries in all cases. Since we are going for highest reliability (not foolproof) and, in my case, convenience - the USB rechargeable flashlight is the best solution I've found.
 
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Of course, but I can charge it in the vehicle while driving and without having to remove the batteries from the flashlight. Therefore, my emergency flashlight always has a near full charge.

ETA - as you pointed out, we are dealing with batteries in all cases. Since we are going for highest reliability (not foolproof) and, in my case, convenience - the USB rechargeable flashlight is the best solution I've found.

Gotcha! :)
 
quick rundown- Lithium non-rechargable, great for long term storeage, but expensive
Lithium chargables, expensive, gotta get quality ones, and have some interesting foibles, do your research so you know what you are getting.
NiMh- come in two main types, and it all depends on how fast they self discharge, the higher mAh rated ones tend to self discharge faster. Great for lights that get used some, and you can cycle the batteries through a charger every six months or so (which you kinda should check your gear at least that often right?)
 
I have three vehicles. I keep a flashlight in each, usually for many years before I need to change the batteries. One uses alkaline, two use Li (not rechargeable).

I've had two vehicles over the last 20 years which were always parked outside. At one point, I switched from an alkaline flashlight to a Li (CR123) because I wanted a brighter flashlight in a small package. As long as I replaced the batteries every 3 years, I had no problems with any of them... Although I only used them for spot checks now and then.

However, the changing climates have their own abuse on the flashlights and batteries. Hot, high humidity drains the battery. Spring time hot days and cool nights often means condensation on anything metal (my flashlights do better in the glove compartment than under the seat in this type of weather). Cold winters freeze the metal, increasing the resistance, and results in reduced brightness (incandescent) and lower run times (incandescent and LED).

Then, there's the potential for circuitry issues on the LED's versus bulb breakage on the incandescent from getting banged up or dropped.

IMO, just put a piece of tape on your Maglite with the date of battery replacement, and change it out every few years, with occasional checks.

If you go the CR123 route, I find that ordering batteries directly from Surefire is usually cheaper, and it also gets newer batteries.
 
You might try Eneloop batteries which has very low self discharge rate.
 
Living in earthquake country, we have several emergency lanterns that run on D cell batteries. I wanted to be able to keep one "ready to go", so I came up with this solution. If you search for "Titanium Innovations Battery Adapter PARALLEL" you'll find a "D" size adapter that you can put 3 L-Ion AA's into. This gives you 9000 mAh per adapted cell, and that's not much less than the average D cell (8900 mAh - 12000 mAh) battery. The L-Ion won't leak and will work in the cold. Just make sure you buy the PARALLEL battery adapter that outputs 1.5V, they make a series adapter too that outputs 4.5V.

Good luck!

AA Lithium Ions? Is that what you really meant (rechargeable, ~14500 size), or did you mean primary Lithium cells (non-rechargeable)? Just want to be clear here, as there are not many 1.5v Li-Ion batteries out there, and the 3,000mAh you state makes me think you meant primary Lithium cells (like the Energizer Lithiums).

Good call on the 3xAA's to D cell adapters though! I use 3xEneloops with those, and they work great!

Many moons ago on CPF, I actually came up with an adapter for a 3D mag light that held 12 AA's in a series-parallel configuration for a regulated Luxeon 5 Watt LED conversion (2 sets of 6 batteries in series). There was *just* enough room inside of the light body to fit 4 AA's in place of one D cell, with a rod running down the middle and one on the outside between each battery. The adapter was quickly dubbed "the paint roller". :rolleyes:

This is def what I'm going to do as I have premium enloops in my 3D maglite now and they've work great since enloop used to be sanyo. I'm get um...wow 3x6=18 more and the adapters for them. the 3D eats the single AA to D adapted ones up but I hardly use it. With as much as I use my 6D it will need the extra amphours that the tri adapters use.

I think you'll be amazed how well the Eneloops work in the 3xAA to D cell adapters. They still work well in the cold (unlike Li-Ion), they don't leak, and they self-discharge very little, which makes them perfect for long-term storage like a vehicle flashlight. Overall, the Eneloops are hard to beat. About the only place where I prefer Li-Ion is in very high-drain applications, where the NiMh chemistry can't keep up with the current demand. Not too many places where that's the case, however.

quick rundown- Lithium non-rechargable, great for long term storeage, but expensive
Lithium chargables, expensive, gotta get quality ones, and have some interesting foibles, do your research so you know what you are getting.
NiMh- come in two main types, and it all depends on how fast they self discharge, the higher mAh rated ones tend to self discharge faster. Great for lights that get used some, and you can cycle the batteries through a charger every six months or so (which you kinda should check your gear at least that often right?)

A few items I'd ADD to your summary:
  • Primary Lithium cells are the best choice for cold-weather use, and tend to have the best shelf life.
  • Li-Ion is good for general use where they can be charged as needed, and is good for high-drain applications (motors, high-current flashlights, etc), but does not work well in the cold.
  • Low self-discharge (LSD) NiMh are good for long-term storage because they don't lose energy, they don't leak, have decent power capacity, and decent current capability.
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With all of that out of the way, I typically use all three of the aforementioned chemistries. All three have much better discharge curves, where the output remains relatively flat over the life of the battery discharge cycle, versus akaline where the discharge is always dropping off as they discharge.

I don't use primary Lithium much anymore, except for one headlamp that takes CR123's that I use for ice fishing in the winter. Best option when it's really cold. I use either SureFire 123's, or the Battery Junction house brand 123's. I'd only use Surefire, but the BJ ones seem to be just about as good, and can usually be had for a good bit cheaper. Last time I purchased, both brands were still USA-made.

My other main headlamp and the Titanium Olight S10 I carry daily both use Li-Ion batteries (18650 and RCR123, respectively). That's because Li-Ion has the highest energy density, and I can recharge the battery whenever needed and/or carry spares.

Lastly, I use a LOT of Eneloop LSD NiMh batteries in my home! And all our emergency gear / flashlights are run on these batteries as well. Charged at least annually, they have been completely reliable for us. We usually buy them at Costco, where the price is usually in the neighborhood of $2/battery or less, where you get 8xAA, 4xAAA, and usually you get a 4-bay charger too for around $22 when there's a coupon. They've recently started carrying just the packs of just 12xAA batteries too.

I bet we easily have over 100 of the AA's and probably around 40-50 of the AAA's in our house, and have been using them since they were first introduced. Cameras, portable electronics (GPS, FRS radios, remote controls, etc.), headlamps, flashlights, kids toys, clocks, so much. Over the years, we've saved a TON of money on alkaline batteries by using Eneloops instead.

Finally, MyLegsAreOk MyLegsAreOk , I hope that 6D maglight you're using has a LED conversion in it. If not, you'd get a lot more light and battery life out of it if you made the switch. ;)

Sorry for the wall of text, but hope it helps! CandlePowerForums has a CRAPLOAD of good battery info if you want to learn more (I'm LEDmodMan there, since 2001).
 
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Much better break-down there. Thanks for taking the time. As tech improves, it is important to be clear when discussing things even when you are just on a surface level. Good info saves dollars.
 
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