Got the itch!

R

rtpurdum

Joined
Feb 17, 2016
Messages
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Been trolling the forums for info for some time. Always had a big interest in blades. Put in my first (hopefully not my last) order with njsteelbaron today. Bought some 1084 as I will be heat treating myself. The plan is to build a home forge (2 brick cylindrical design pulled from here) and start making some knives. Will be stopping in and asking some questions for sure. I am pretty handy but this will be a new adventure for me. Will start out with fixed blades using hand tools only. Will probably move on to some folders later on. Any tips are always appreciated. Look forward to conversing with you all.

Thanks,
Tom Purdum
 
Welcome. Even for people who are handy, making your first few knives is a humbling experience. My advice is just to be at peace with the fact that it is a lot of work to do well. Don't cut corners. Lean on the folks here for help along the way.
 
Will do. I appreciate the time and though that goes into making a knife. I plan on taking it slow and attempting to do it right. I am sure that I will have plenty of questions.
 
Take the time to build a Gough file jig. It will help you out until you A) get a belt sander/grinder and B) get the experience in said machine to effectively create nice lines.

I haven't been making knives for That long, and I am also still using 1084.

If you don't mind a few tips:
Head out and grab a 5 gallon bucket and 4-5 gallons of canola oil for your quenchant, a digital thermometer for tempering, and a toaster oven.

When I was Just starting out, I filled my toaster oven drip tray with sand to act as a heat sink to limit the temp swings.
I also created a "Tent" with foil, an upside down "U" and a foil base for the knives to sit upright in (blade edge down, spine up). Like I said, I wanted to keep the swings to a minimum and I was able to stabilize it to bouncing between 400°-406°. With 45 mins of the 1 hour cycle would sit at 406°.

I also made my first forge from mostly scrap. An old grill with a hole cut out of the bottom just large enough to fit the drum on a deep dished brake rotor, the brake surface acted as a washer/flange on the inside of the grill. Fed through the hub was a floor flange of 1 1/2" black pipe then attached a length down to a tee w/ a blow dryer on the side and capped bottom.
Over the floor flange (inside the rotor) to act as a screen was a cast iron yard drain cover.

Once I was done, I could close it up and roll it away. Makes for an easy rolling work station that cost just the black pipe. Other items can be substituted in,
no rotor = cast iron sink
Blow dryer = old bathroom blower 110 ac plug version
Old grill = just use a cast iron grill top and cut a hole in that to fit your basin...

Plenty can be made to work for a backyard HT of 1084. If you have any questions, feel free to send me an email through the site or use the visitor message thing through my profile.
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Welcome aboard, keep us posted with photos.
 
Congratulations on starting your first KSO (knife shaped object)! Looking good so far.

If you haven't gone through them, its highly recommended you read through the stickies at the top of the forum page. They have just about all the info you will initially need or desire, in one convenient location.

Welcome to the addiction....
 
Ok, you're off to a good start. Let's pause for a moment. You are exhibiting a common symptom of first timers. Take this with a grain of salt. If the design looks exactly the way you want then disregard the following. Many new makers let the bar of steel determine the shape of the knife. They take the rectangular piece, round off a few corners and end up with a very stiff looking design with little grace and "flow". I think you are in danger of falling into that trap. Naturally beauty is in the eye of the beholder. However, there is a reason most makers with some years of experience gravitate to designs that have more curves than straight lines. This is because mostly everything in nature is made from curved lines. It feels more natural and comfortable to the eye. With a Sharpie marker, try a couple of softer curves. Try extending the belly of the cutting edge halfway further down the straight section and make a long gentle curve along the top from the tip of the blade to the butt of the handle. Also try a very gentle curve on the underside of the handle. See how that looks to you. If you don't think it adds anything then it's easy enough to wipe off.
 
i4marc, Yes indeed. I do not plan to leave it as it is. So far I have only sawed the basic outline and cleaned it up a bit. It had markings on it but they were all but wiped clean. I do appreciate the input and understand what you are saying. The original idea below. I do like the idea of arching the back of the knife ever so slightly.

drawing by Tom Purdum, on Flickr
 
On another note. I am in the Frederick, MD area and if anyone is near here. I had might like to meet up possibly learn a few things. I am currently just working out of my garage with simple hand tools. I am really enjoying the process and will definitely continue making knives. So learning hands on from someone with far more experience than me would be great. I am planning on reaching out to Erin Aylor a local smith that will be featured on Forged in Fire. Anyone else with input is welcomed.
 
How long you been at it Kevin? I am working on finishing up my first to pre-HT and I got started on my second yesterday. Going to get fire bricks this week to build a two brick forge. Will post some pictures as I go along for more input.
 
I'm in Carrol County, about a half hour away from you, Edgeworks, and Exotic Eumber inc. If you live near the main part of town, you are really close to a great wood store. Ask for Neil or Creig and tell them Tanner Saslow sent you. It's a great place to get good wood. I would be happy to help you out as well :)
 
I've been making my own blades, including HT for about 5 months. I just finished my 9th knife. That grind looks pretty good. Are your plunges lined up from side to side? I had trouble with that on my first couple.
 
Plunges are pretty even. I feel that the Bevel got washed out though. Going to re-sand my blade flat to see if I can get it more pronounced.
 
Thank you Tanner. I will definitely check out Exotic Lumber. Think I am going to use micarta for the first knife. Plan to use it as a camp/survival knife. I am highly contemplating using corby bolts or some other screw type to attach the handle as well.
 
Micarta is nice stuff. I like the black linen Micarta that Texas knifemaker supply sells. You can get a 5x10'' piece for $14 or so if I remember correctly. Keep it from over heating or it will burn and turn yellow. It will take a nice polish if you take it up to 800 grit. Also, make sure you rough up the surface that will come in contact with the tang and epoxy. Otherwise, you won't get a solid bond.
 
You MD folks should check out the Blacksmiths Guild of Central Maryland. The BGCM has its forges and meetings at the Carroll County Farm Museum grounds. They teach blacksmithing and bladesmithing. The members get to use the forges and eqipment as well as get a lot of experienced help. You will meet other makers and learn much faster. The yearly "Blacksmith's Days" festival in May is a great event. Everyone within a reasonable drive should try to go. There is everything from Farrier competitions to amazing sculptural exhibitions ... and all day long demonstrations on many skills and other things. The are some very talented folks there who love to share. Decker is there, too ... but go anyway :)

http://www.bgcmonline.org/
 
I have been told about it several times and it has peaked my interest. I may go this summer, but in the mean time I am going to a hammer in at Baltimore Knife and Sword as well as the hammer/ grind in at USAKnifemaker. This should be a fun next few months :D
 
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