Grandpa's Double bit project

jeremy1517

jeremy1517

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Sep 11, 2012
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Here is my first attempt to ever refurbish an axe. I will be refurbishing my Grandpa's Double Bit axe he purchased in Pennsylvania in the 1940's.
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Using a wire brush, steel wool, and WD 40, I have spent several hours scrubbing. I don't think I can get it much cleaner without power tools but I think I got all the rust and dirt off. I can't find any makers marks. There are grooves in the eye so I think it may be a True Temper. It originally had red paint on it. I am waiting for a handle to arrive from handle house.

Any advice would be appreciated!

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What sort of advice are you after? It's looking pretty good as far as rust/corrosion removal is concerned. If you want tips on hanging and/or sharpening and profiling the bits, a search or two on the forum will provide plenty of good info, as will the forest service publication and video "an ax to grind."
 
I've watched the video "an ax to grind" about five times here waiting for my handle to arrive. I think I have a good idea on how to hang the handle properly. By advice, I was more meaning if someone notices something I should do or something I missed, I could use the advice on what to fix or do. I'm just taking my time, any info I can get I appreciate. The forum is a wealth of info!!
 
Gotcha. Sounds like you're doing your homework. One piece of advice I have is to go nice and slow--take your time--and pay close attention to each step of the process. Whether you're hanging or sharpening, it's easy at first to rush to the next step of the process without really arriving there as you're supposed to. For example, getting excited to pound in the wedge even if you really ought to rasp/sand away more material. This can lead to driving in a wedge not far enough, which will potentially produce a weaker hang. Make sure there's ample room in the kerf for the wedge, and that you deepen the kerf with a saw as needed. And the same is true with file work: it's easy to jump ahead to finishing with a stone even though there may yet be thinning or profiling to do with the file.

It's fun, rewarding work, so take your time and realize that you will not get it perfect right off the bat.

Best of luck,

Jeff
 
When setting the grinds - be sure to do some research on proper angles. In the .pdf of 'an axe to grind' there is a template there that you can print - I used that to make a wooden template (as suggested) and use it when setting the original bevels. You will want to set one at the template itself - and the other just a bit thinner.

If you want to take the rest of the rust off - soak that head in a bucket of water and vinegar and go after it with your wire wheel again. You may find a makers mark still.

TF
 
Thanks for the suggestions, the grinds really kinda scare me. I really don't want to mess it up. I have a professional sharpener here is Wichita. I'm planning on taking the axe to him and having him show me the correct way to sharpen everything. Fortunately, the edges look good and have no nicks so I think all it will take is some sharpening. What I'm not sure about is how to make the one side the cutting side and the other side the grubbing side (not sure if thats the correct terminology).

I need advice on the cleaning. I've thought about the soaking in vinegar. I've heard the vinegar will remove the patina, which I don't want. What will soaking in vinegar do to the color of the blade? I'm not into the shinny stuff. I really like the aged look. BUT, I know there is some extra mess on it that I wouldn't mind getting off but I don't want it shinny. Hope that makes sense.
 
If you can locate an angle grinder and a twisted wire cup, you will be amazed at how much cleaner it will get your axe. It will remove all the brown rust that is still apparent in your second picture. It will also clean up the brown crud showing on the first picture.
Good luck with your restoration, Tom
 
I have a Dremel, will that be powerful enough? Also, should I soak in vinegar first?

Today, I sprayed it down with WD40 and cleaned, seemed to help.
 
Vinegar soaks aren't really necessary. Wire brush/ steel wool/ oil coats in between, is a good method. Like Jefroman said- take your time with it, and like DoubleOtt said- an angle grinder with a wire cup attachment would be an indispensable tool for the job. Here is a thread I posted from when I restored my Grandfather's double bit. You might find some inspiration/insight somewhere in there.
 
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Warner, So no vinegar for you? What kind of oil did you use and did you stick with the brush/wool or also use the angle grinder? Also, Your Grandfathers double bit is beautiful, great job. Did you fill the PVC pipe with linseed oil and let it soak, if so how long?

Your axe is a great tribute to your Grandfather. My Grandparents were farmers. In particular they raised chickens, sold eggs, sold vegetables, and also grew/sold tree's. Growing up, all I did was work with my Grandfather, particularly trimming, shaping, and cutting down trees. The axe I'm refurbishing is the axe my Grandfather used to use. He told me I had to learn the traditional way before I could appreciate the modern chainsaw..... His health is really starting to deteriorate so I am trying to get this axe done for him before he passes.

I really appreciate the advice you all are giving me!!
 
I actually did use a vinegar soak on that one in the link, then finished the process with steel wool. But I'd say the angle grinder/wire cup would be the best choice and would result in a nice, even patina. That being said, it's up to you what you decide to do with it.
As for the linseed oil soak, cooperhill is the guy to talk to about that. That's where I got the idea for it. But I think I soaked mine for about 12-24 hrs.
Good luck with it...
 
jeremy1517 said:
By advice, I was more meaning if someone notices something I should do or something I missed, I could use the advice on what to fix or do.
Click to expand...

Looks good so far.

I notice that there are a number of small dings on the bottom of the axe, probably leftover from someone beating it with a hammer while trying to remove it from it's old handle. I usually file those off while I'm sharpening the axe. Also, check the top of bottom of the eye for damage. If it's dinged up it can make the haft go on rougher. Clean up those dents/dings with a half-round file or a round file if the ding is in the narrow end of the eye.
 
Here's what was a very rusty axe. This is after 48 hours in vinegar.

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Gotcha, I purchased an angle grinder. I'm going to take it to the axe, if I'm not happy with getting stuff I'll try the vinegar as well.

Quick question, DO I need to use the metal wedge as well as the wood wedge when hanging the axe handle? Also, should I put wood glue on the wedge as I put it in?
 
You don't need to use the metal wedge. Most of us aren't using them. One thing that will help keep your hang tight is to leave the haft sticking out 1/4" above the top of the eye. That protruding section will expand wider than the eye and keep the head from coming off.

You can use glue on your wedge. I used to use construction adhesive. But now I just coat the wedge with DPG (dipropylene glycol) before I drive it in. DPG is the active ingredient in Swel-Lock - a substance that swells wood permanently.
 
Jeremy,
As someone else who is just learning to do things the right way, let me throw a tidbit out. When using any power tool in conjunction with a sharp chunk of metal, be sure to have the item secured to a vise or clamped to a bench. If using a benchgrinder with a wire wheel- work is hand held, wear boots and preferably a canvas apron or chaps. The wire wheel can grab the edge of the work and jerk it out of your hands and flip it into your knee or top of your foot.
Not axe specific, just a general shop safety reminder.

Good luck on your restoration :) I am picking up both quality heads from the auction place and flea market heads. For 3-10.00 you can get rusty no name or mid level heads from yard sales and flea markets to work on. I have done a couple and have less than 10.00 in head and new handle. The do not look like new axes but they are perfectly serviceable. I just bought a very good condition Kelly Perfect Jersey at flea market for 6.00. A little rusty and arc of edge is a little flat but it will make a fine axe.

Bill
 
Yes, yes. The wires on the wire wheel grinder also flip out occasionally like mini spears that imbed into your skin, etc. Safety glasses are a MUST. Full face shield is better. Also, use a respirator or dust mask as rust and metal particles are very bad to breath.

Keep us updated with pics!!
 
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