Gransfors SFA and Snow & Nealley Kindling Axe

Brian Andrews

Brian Andrews

Joined
Dec 11, 2006
Messages
1,659
A while ago there was a thread on axe techniques, and there was quite a bit of discussion on axes. I currently have a Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe that I have had for some time, and in that thread I mentioned that I would probably pick up a Snow and Nealley Kindling Axe. Well, I did so here is a mini-review and a mini-comparison.

A couple things to keep in mind:

First, while the GB is a high quality axe, but the head profile is one that is more geared toward different woods than we have here in Michigan. Hence my quest for a more "American Wood" axe.

Second, I knew the S&N would not come as "ready to use" as the GB is out of the box. While I am confident in my re-profiling and sharpening capabilities, I was assured by a famous knife maker (who knows a lot more about axe grinds than I do) that this axe could be made into the axe that I am really looking for. So, it is being sent off to him tomorrow. More on that later....

The axe:

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Here is a comparison between the two:

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The handle grain is not the best that I have seen, but is not bad enough for me to complain about.

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Actually, it is not as bad as it looks there either. It kind of deviates toward the end of the handle, and is rather straight in the rest of the handle.

You can see the "sway" I am talking about here:

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And then it straightening out:

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Head profile comparison between the two:

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GB profile:

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S&N Profile:

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to be continued.......
 
Balance on the S&N is horrible:

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Despite what other people have reported about balance on the GB, it on the other hand is perfect:

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Side profile comparison:

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Poll comparison:

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Finally....on to the use comparison.

Keep in mind that my "use" comparison is based on the "not optimally sharp" edge that the S&N came with. I did not want to alter it before sending it off for modification.

Here are my impressions:
- The S&N edge is very slight convex, and then the head goes into a v-grind shape.
- Compared to the GB, the S&N hits the wood like a ton of bricks, even with a slightly shorter handle. It is indeed a "different" tool for different work.
- On hardwood (I was using Ash) the S&N had much further penetration. This wood was difficult to get through with the GB, but much easier with the S&N. However, due to the v-grind shaped head of the S&N and the deep penetration, it tended to stick.
- Because the S&N hits harder, it is more useful as a hammer (for wooden stakes and tent pegs, of course).
- Splitting: The S&N definitely ruled here. It split hard wood much easier in all sizes, both hitting and batoning. I believe this is due to the head shape again. The GB is so thin that as you approach the eye, the metal is actually concave, and it doesn't work as a "wedge" very well.

Other things to note:
- I don't like the lacquered handle of the S&N as much as the linseed oil soak GB handle.

So, now the S&N is being sent off to have a competition grind put on it. One that will hopefully take care of the balance issues, the sticking issue, and of course it should also shave hair. I will report back when I get it back.

So which one would I chose for my woods bumming axe??? They are definitely two "different" tools, and there is quite a difference in feel between the two. For the wood I like to work with, the area I am in, I have to say that hands down I will pick the S&N. Even without sending it off to have it re-ground, I feel that I would be able to blend and convex the primary bevel on this axe and greatly improve its performance. But, this axe seems to be better at doing the things I do better.

Now, if I am traveling to really northern Canada, where the woods begin to change to softer spruces and pines, I might consider switching. But, I am really impressed with the S&N.
 
Glad you liked it.

I don't really know what constitues a "competition grind", but all I did to mine is conves the edge with a diamond hone, and it's an absolute killer (of wood). Look forward to the report after a professional gets ahold of it.
 
Cpl Punishment said:
Glad you liked it.

I don't really know what constitues a "competition grind", but all I did to mine is conves the edge with a diamond hone, and it's an absolute killer (of wood). Look forward to the report after a professional gets ahold of it.
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I don't know either :D But, I am really excited to get it back.
 
Yep. Its good to know you stitch your own. Ill bet a kydex insert in the sheath edge would be a usefull addition to a leather sheath.
 
If the S&N weighs a quarter pound more it should chop deeper and with more force. IMO even a couple of ounces makes a discernable difference.
 
norcalblacktail said:
Great review and pics. I might have to try out one of those S&N.
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Just remember, I bought this axe for what it CAN be. Not what it is.

hollowdweller said:
If the S&N weighs a quarter pound more it should chop deeper and with more force. IMO even a couple of ounces makes a discernable difference.
Click to expand...

That's the idea. I am on a quest to get one to perform the way "I" want, in an overall size package.
 
Brian, thanks for posting your review. I have had two of the larger Snow & Nealley Hudson bay axes for several years now. Both came with edges like the one you pictured. I have since convexed both of them and polished their cheeks, and both preform very well now, and hold a decent edge. I sanded the handles down starting with 60 grit and finishing with 0000 steel wool. Then I rubbed them with several coats of Tung oil and then rubbed with bees wax. I have used them for felling, bucking and limbing pine, oak, and maple up to about 8", and they preformed well for such a small ax. They are my favorite ax for snowshoeing, canoing, and camping. I hope you enjoy yours when you get it back. Joe
 
What are the features on the GB axe that make it less desirable for Michigan/USA wood?
Can you explain some more about the balance test?
It seems arbitrary.
I'm eyeing those S&N's myself, either the one you show or the minimaul.
I like my GB SmForest but there are times when I don't have a stump to split on and I'd hate to ding up the edge on my GB's.
Looking forward to the results.
:D
 
Great thread...that's the best review of a Snow and Neally I've seen to date. I really appreciate the extensive "comparo" pics. Actually these pics highlight my least favourite thing about the GB: I don't like the extremely thin bit. I really prefer a small axe to have a bit of a wedge shape as the S&N does. This doesn't seem to be as much of a problem with large felling axes on account of the nature of the cuts you make, but on a small axe doing a broad range of tasks I like the wedge.

I've never handled a Snow and Neally but this thread really makes me want one! I think it would be a great axe to keep around your cabin for light duty work.
 
Ebbtide said:
What are the features on the GB axe that make it less desirable for Michigan/USA wood?
Can you explain some more about the balance test?
It seems arbitrary.
I'm eyeing those S&N's myself, either the one you show or the minimaul.
I like my GB SmForest but there are times when I don't have a stump to split on and I'd hate to ding up the edge on my GB's.
Looking forward to the results.
:D
Click to expand...

Absolutely I will elaborate.

First the balance test. When held near the head by the handle, the ax should stay relative flat, but it is acceptable to dip "a little." Why is this important. If it is not balanced, it will effect accuracy. Just image, everything all in-line and balanced, there should be no reason for your hit to sway to one side or the other. Throw that balance off, and any mistake you make is GREATLY exaggerated. This becomes more and more important the longer the axe becomes.

The worst case is to try to imagine a poorly balanced ax with a long handle. Is that making sense?

Honestly, even though by textbook definitions the balance on the S&N was horrible, I had no issues hitting where I wanted everytime, and I am sure it has to do with the shorter handle length. Give me the same balance in a full size axe, and it I probably wouldn't even touch it.


Head geometry
If you consult any authority on axe head shapes you will find that the GB shape would be classified as "limbing." That is why I showed pictures of the profiles. Now, I LOVE the quality of the Gransfors, but I want a more "general purpose" ax than I do a limbing axe.

While the GB, with its geometry, does great on limbing, it also will cross cut (buck) softwood well enough that there is not much reason to look at a different axe. Try the same thing with really hard wood (like we have here in Michigan) maples, oaks, ashes, etc, and the performance is just not there.

My first two priorities for an ax this size are cutting hardwood in to smaller pieces (via bucking) and getting small and larger wood chunks in to smaller piece (splitting). The concave nature of the GB makes it not a good splitter on hardwoods. The thin head just keeps penetrating without much wood splitting going on. When the eye of the axe is reached, the concave nature of the head wants to push the axe back out of the wood!

It doesn't matter what axe you have. IMO an axe of this size should be easily sharp enough to shave hair, unless you have really dirty plans for it. That being the case, dinging the edge should have the same consideration as your GB.

In case you are interested, here is a bit of history with some opinion thrown in:

If you look back into American history, you will find that when the European axes were brought over here, they did not fair well at all against American hardwoods. Therefore, smiths were forced to come up with their own head designs. There were literately an uncountable number of designs. Then, around 1925 or so, the Ax Manufacturers’ Association agreed to set standards for head designs. Designs that worked well in American forests. What I wouldn’t give to get a GB quality “Michigan” headed axe.

The problem is that with the advent of saws, chainsaws, etc, there was no longer a need for American companies to continue to produce high quality axes, in “American” head designs. If one would step up, and do as GB has done, I think it would be a big hit.

There is no doubt that GB makes the highest quality “production” axe available. However, the head design is still a European design and that doesn’t mean that it necessarily meets my needs.

Am I being anal or what??? :D Hey....I just love axes!

It all comes down to priorities; what is that you want to do the most? Which tool does that better. This was not a comparison on the quality of manufacture.
 
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Hey Brian,

What was the outcome of the reprofiled head on the S & N.

Thanks,

Geoff
 
Brian Andrews said:
While the GB, with its geometry, does great on limbing, it also will cross cut (buck) softwood well enough that there is not much reason to look at a different axe. Try the same thing with really hard wood (like we have here in Michigan) maples, oaks, ashes, etc, and the performance is just not there.
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I totally disagree.

I have heard that repeated often (usually by people attempting to sell some other brand of axe) but my woods are mostly hardwood and I've never noticed any problem cutting them with a GB.

Maybe Michigan White Oak is a different density than WV White or Post Oak but the GB's have always been easy for me to chop oak with.
 
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