Green Beret and Pacific

silenthunterstudios

silenthunterstudios

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Feb 2, 2005
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I have wanted some of these off and on for some time. I was very pleased with the Aviator I got in a trade a couple years ago, but traded it off. Not really interested in the one piece models. I do however keep drifting towards the Green Beret models, both sizes, and the Pacific.

I have faith in CRK knives and know they are fine knives, I am always wowed when carrying my Sebs and Mnandi. How many have used these models while camping? The smaller GB when hiking? Just playing around in the woods?

I have a possible trade lined up for a smaller GB, and am very interested to get one.

Let me just say, that I am a proud owner of Sebenzas and an Mnandi, and that I expect and sure I would get nothing less in their fixed blades.
 
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I have the Ritter Grips in S30V, a Spyderco Military in S30V, and Sebenzas and Striders in S30V. I have put the Ritters and my SMF through their paces, and haven't had any problems. Of course, I wasn't chopping with them.
 
The Green Beret is a prybar that can cut thin materials with its hollow grind and has excellent tip penetration. It's supposed to be a soldiers knife, and I suppose it's ok for that. You can pry open a crate, open your MRE, and stab somebody through heavy clothing if you have to.
As a field knife, it's a very poor design. It binds in wood, is too light to chop with, the serrations are useless, the swedge is sharp and tears up batons.
I think you can do a lot better, and for a lot less money, with practically any carbon steel flat or convex ground drop or spear point in the same size range.
 
OwenM said:
The Green Beret is a prybar that can cut thin materials with its hollow grind and has excellent tip penetration. It's supposed to be a soldiers knife, and I suppose it's ok for that. You can pry open a crate, open your MRE, and stab somebody through heavy clothing if you have to.
As a field knife, it's a very poor design. It binds in wood, is too light to chop with, the serrations are useless, the swedge is sharp and tears up batons.
I think you can do a lot better, and for a lot less money, with practically any carbon steel flat or convex ground drop or spear point in the same size range.
Click to expand...

If I was after that type of knife I'd much sooner buy an after sales Scrapyard SOD or Scrapper 6 !!!:thumbup:
 
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I am happy with my tool and carbon steel blades. Prefer tool steels for fixed blades, and super stainless for my folders. Just wanted to see what users on here had to say. Did not plan on stirring the pot.

I have seen Noss' tests, and have heard about them, in person and on the net, from several, shall we say, less than enthused, makers and members. I agree with what Brian said below.
 
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With all due respect, Noss' tests have nothing to do with reality and actual use of knives, and every stroke of the test that he performs is so random in energy , angle, and impact, and creates such a wide degree of variable that it skews any "results" he gets, and makes them null and void. Please think and do not rely on these tests for anything but entertainment, and let's not bring them up in our W&SS forum anymore.

That said, the Green Beret is an outstanding design as a combat tool, and an outstanding high quality knife, but a less than stellar design for bushcraft. It simply was not made for that application.
 
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Brian Jones said:
With all due respect, Noss' tests have nothing to do with reality and actual use of knives, and every stroke of the test that he performs is random in energy , angle, and impact, and creates such a wide degree of variable that it skews any "results" he gets, and makes them null and void. Please think and do not rely on these tests for anything but entertainment, and let's not bring them up in our W&SS forum anymore.

That said, the Green Beret is an outstanding design as a combat tool, and an outstanding high quality knife, but a less than stellar design for bushcraft. It simply was not made for that application.
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Sorry Brian, point noted !;)
 
With all due respect, Noss' tests have nothing to do with reality and actual use of knives, and every stroke of the test that he performs is random in energy , angle, and impact, and creates such a wide degree of variable that it skews any "results" he gets, and makes them null and void. Please think and do not rely on these tests for anything but entertainment, and let's not bring them up in our W&SS forum anymore.

Second and Third Brian's comment:thumbup:
Those are not tests of a knife or it's ability, if you try hard enough you can, and will, damage any knife...and as Brian also mentioned, absolutely with no disrespect toward anyone or anyone else's comments or personal opinion, these are just my own thoughts.
 
I can't really think of anything that would make the Green Beret models a good choice for "non-tactical" outdoors use. There are far cheaper knives that do everything one is likely to need in outdoors use much better. The only redeeming feature I can think of is the fit and finish, and from a performance perspective that isn't worth very much. But as others have said, it wasn't really designed to be a "bushcraft" type of outdoors knife. However, like any knife, it will be better than nothing, and will do a lot of jobs adequately in the right hands. In comparison to many other designs, though, the GBs just aren't efficient for outdoors use unless it's mostly about stabbing (and it isn't the best stabbing knife, either). For those who put high value on chopping performance, the GBs don't do well - too light, and the grip is uncomfortable, too (mostly because it has those weird finger grooves, and because the handle scales are narrower than the tang). It has serrations and a double guard, making it a very inefficient and cumbersome tool for precise work. CRK left the steel far softer than S30V is usually run, and that leaves the edge retention unimpressive (and unfortunately doesn't seem to make the knife any tougher than the average knife of this thickness and size, either). And for just cutting stuff and working on food and wood, the low hollow grind really isn't all that good when the blade stock is so thick. In my personal opinion (not to be regarded as gospel, although it might be regarded as the ramblings of yet another drunken Finn :D ) the Green Berets make more sense as trophy or collector knives than actual user blades. They are expensive, and don't perform very well compared to many other, even cheaper, designs. I can think of a great many blades that I would rather take camping or backpacking - or even to field use in the military - than the GB. Two random examples are the M.95 Sissipuukko and the Fällkniven A1.

I do not own a Pacific, but it would seem to have pretty much the same problems as the GBs based on specs.
 
If you wanna remain factual, from an outdoor point of view...

Cons:
Guard
Hollow grind
Serrations
Large knife with little chopping power
Finger grooves (for reverse grip)
Large Ricasso
Stainless /steel choice
Lanyard hole (located exactly where you'd want to pound the knife)

Pros:
well made (fit and finish)

Edit:
Elen summarized it with more details
 
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Elen said:
Yeah, Strider at least can make a pretty darn tough fixed blade out of S30V that also is hard enough to hold an edge well. :thumbup:
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Striders are some great knives, and are VERY strong. I think it all comes down to "the right tool for the job".
For instance, for a day hike, I carry my Strider SA-L, holds a great edge, slices very well (3/16) and feels great in my hand, and is very strong, full flat grind.
I do not like hollow grinds on any of my knives, but thats just me.

I personally really like s30v, it is one of my favorite steels.

It all depends on what your going to use the blade for.
 
Brian Jones said:
With all due respect, Noss' tests have nothing to do with reality and actual use of knives, and every stroke of the test that he performs is so random in energy , angle, and impact, and creates such a wide degree of variable that it skews any "results" he gets, and makes them null and void.
Click to expand...

When in the field do you chop or cut with precisely the same energy, angle, and impact?
 
STAGE 2 said:
When in the field do you chop or cut with precisely the same energy, angle, and impact?
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Show me tests of the knife doing what it will be doing in the field.

Right now, my biggest objection to this testing is the ridiculous threads that result, and we will certainly not be doing that here.

This subforum is about wilderness skills. None were demonstrated in his tests. Therefore, any further discussion of those tests are not viable subject matter for the WSS forum.

I hope I am making myself clear.
 
If ya have the money then I say buy one and beat the snot outta it and then we will know for sure without all the speculating. This is what I have done with my Swamprat and Scrapyard knives, no real care taken, just a huge batton and plenty of muscle and they have performed exactly as it says on the box !!!!;):thumbup:
 
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