grinding blades

Practice, Practice, Practice..... you get the picture. Yes, using some type of jig is useful, but with practice you can fix any flaws without the use of jigs. Even on a grizzly. Good luck!
 
Now, this may be an obvious question, but can you use one of those "guides" made from angle iron or bar steel for hollow grinds on a wheel? I've only heard of them being used for flat grinds on the platen, so I have never tried using one (I only hollow grind).
Thanks,
Jeff W


Merry CHRISTmas to all!
 
I went though three O1 file guides before buying Uncle Al's outrageously expensive one with the carbide inserts. Worth every penny!!! 36 grit zirconia belts won't even scratch it. I set the plunge cuts using the heavier grits and then take the guide off when it get to the flexible fine grit belts. I also radius the edges of my platens. I have two platens so I have one side with the original square edges and three with radii of varying size so Ihcan adjust based on the size of the knife and its function. Camp knives/choppers get big rounded cuts whereas hunters use the smallest radius or the 90 degree edge.
 
I do everything freehand (no problem with those who don't, no biggie) but I've learned a few things through the years.....

1... Wheels, have a variety of them in different durometers.... A 90 durometer 12 inch wheel sucks ass for a sweeping grind with a gradiated plung.... A 60 durometer 12 inch wheel kicks ass for the same aforementioned grind....

2.... Do it backwards.... In other words, start from the tip and go back, this will allow you to get a channel, then move it backwards to a point.

3..... Get a DC motor so you can control the speed.... That's the only major problem with less expensive upright grinders.... they have one speed, haul ass.... Even if you get pulleys on some of them, it's a pain to change it.... However, isn't the Grizz a direct drive? Not sure, just asking...

4...... Get it finished, then go back a few days later and look at it again.... Anything looks good after you look at it for freaking ever..... That's why a knife you finished 1 hour ago will look totally different to you a week/month/year from now.....







MT
 
im having some trouble grinding i didnt hollow grind and just free hand ground the blade this is my first blade i need the jig cause holding the blade is making my fingernails disappear but seriously i can shave with the blade but im not happy ide like to have the blade hollow ground i know it will take some practice could some one email me a pattern for a jig my belt sander is a upright with multiple pullys. thanks kellyw
 
Mark Terrell said:
I do everything freehand (no problem with those who don't, no biggie) but I've learned a few things through the years.....

1... Wheels, have a variety of them in different durometers.... A 90 durometer 12 inch wheel sucks ass for a sweeping grind with a gradiated plung.... A 60 durometer 12 inch wheel kicks ass for the same aforementioned grind....

2.... Do it backwards.... In other words, start from the tip and go back, this will allow you to get a channel, then move it backwards to a point.

3..... Get a DC motor so you can control the speed.... That's the only major problem with less expensive upright grinders.... they have one speed, haul ass.... Even if you get pulleys on some of them, it's a pain to change it.... However, isn't the Grizz a direct drive? Not sure, just asking...

4...... Get it finished, then go back a few days later and look at it again.... Anything looks good after you look at it for freaking ever..... That's why a knife you finished 1 hour ago will look totally different to you a week/month/year from now.....







MT
Click to expand...
You can control the speed on AC motors too. KMG switched over to an AC setup a while back because of reliability issues.
 
jdm61 said:
You can control the speed on AC motors too. KMG switched over to an AC setup a while back because of reliability issues.
Click to expand...

Yes, but the way to do that is with a VFD & a 3 phase motor....and good ones are expensive, more so than a DC motor and controller.

I used a VFD and a 3 phase for a while, but it was more cumbersome than a DC motor and knob controller for me...

DC motors and controllers are pretty affordable on Ebay, that's where I buy mine. I got my Dayton motor/controllers (1.5 hp high torque) for around 150$ + shipping per set.....

You can also use dampening controllers, but you'll lose power from that as you decrease the speed (which is decreasing the hertz and voltage to the motor to control the speed).



MT
 
Mark Terrell said:
Yes, but the way to do that is with a VFD & a 3 phase motor....and good ones are expensive, more so than a DC motor and controller.

I used a VFD and a 3 phase for a while, but it was more cumbersome than a DC motor and knob controller for me...

DC motors and controllers are pretty affordable on Ebay, that's where I buy mine. I got my Dayton motor/controllers (1.5 hp high torque) for around 150$ + shipping per set.....

You can also use dampening controllers, but you'll lose power from that as you decrease the speed (which is decreasing the hertz and voltage to the motor to control the speed).


MT
Click to expand...
My VFD setup is a 1.5 HP motor that runs on 110V power.
 
Yes, I get that, and the VFD (depending on the model) can run off of 110 V or 220V...

Unless someone has created a VFD recently that is able to control straight line 110V incrementally then it's having a 110/220v input and then uses the components (capacitors etc..) to create the additional 1 or 2 legs of power needed.

There are VFD's that control straight line 110V by frequency (hence the Variable Frequency Drive nomenclature) but they do lose approximately 30% of the power on the low end....

At any rate, I've never had problems with DC motors unless you get the wrong enclosure or just a crappy DC motor... Low torque is also a big problem because we tend to overwork them but fail to realize that the load we're putting on them is too severe... A high torque 1.5 hp motor will outdo a 2-3 hp low torque model...



MT
 
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