Grinding by circular saw?

nozh2002

nozh2002

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I am making blade out of CPM 10V. It is prety hard to do with generic sanding belts so I try to use circular wit diamond disk for ceramik. Any comments?

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Sounds like a novel approach. One caution would be to be aware of the blade to table clearance. You wouldn't want a blade to get sucked between. Also, I'd be tempted to work from behind the saw, so that if a blade gets away, it isn't coming at you. That would also solve the first problem, though you would be working without a rest (as many makers do).

Let us know how it works.

Rob!
 
I would not advise ceramic diamond disks, they're made to cut tiles and cementfibre boards not metal, get a metal cutoff disk instead, they look and feel like a anglegrinder cutoff disk but are sized to fit a cutoff saw or circular saw.
 
I hope this was just a passing thought. You could end up very injured, or worse. DON'T DO IT!!!
If you want to try it at all, make up a horizontal grinder and affix the cut off wheel to the plate in place of the sanding disk.

You said generic belts were the problem, so why not get better belts?
Stacy
 
I'm with Stacy on this one. Call supergrit, or Pops, or Uncle Al, or anybody and get some good belts. You'll have the right tool for the job, it's not expensive, it's safer, and you won't have to develop any new technique and screw up your steel.

-d
 
I used 8" metal cutoff wheels mounted in a bench grinder for many years to do profiling, but they are not designed for side load use.
 
I know of a couple of makers that use a table saw to grind blades with that have mounted a grinder stone in the place of the saw blade. Make a stop for the blade and it does an amazing job. You will have to make your own cutout clearance plate but you can really get a thin edge and very accurate . The first one justs sells 8 to 900 dollar blades. He marks his edge and uses a 4 1/2 grinder to remove a little material then goes to the table saw. Kinda like his surface grinder is a small horizontal mill with a stone mounted on it. Different ways for different people.
 
What problem with safety? It is seriouse metter so please explain - do not joke about it!

I made set of unfinished cuts one after another - blade looks like Kershaw groove in result. No pressure on the side of the disk, only the way it is meant to be used. Diamond disk is metal disk with - no teeth on it. After majority of steel removed I think I will use belt to polish it.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I would not advise doing that! You can get injured and be out of work for the rest of your life. Listen to what other knife maker's are telling you. It will pay in the long run. ---------:yawn:
 
What they are saying is.. if you are grinding said blade while standing in front of the table saw with the saw blade spinning towards you, it has the potential to grab the piece you are working on and impale you with it. Think basic table saw safety - You know, the part where thy tell you to stand off to the side and use push sticks, nobody stands off to the side. Only difference is instead of a 2x4 shooting and breaking ribs, you get impaled with a semi pointy blade @ 100mph (uncomfirmed). and also there is the concern of side pressure on a fiber cut off disc. They are not designed for that, unless you get one of the thick ones actually designed for side pressure, and a bunch that I have seen are arbor mounted for die grinder use.
 
gixxer said:
Only difference is instead of a 2x4 shooting and breaking ribs, you get impaled with a semi pointy blade @ 100mph (uncomfirmed). and also there is the concern of side pressure on a fiber cut off disc. They are not designed for that, unless you get one of the thick ones actually designed for side pressure, and a bunch that I have seen are arbor mounted for die grinder use.
Click to expand...

I've seen a fiber cut off disk mounted in a table saw shred from side pressure. Not a pretty sight! One piece embedded in the shoulder of the user (very luck it hit there...) others were embedded in drywall. Even if you could ensure that the disk/blade will not deteriorate from side load, the risk of your work being thrown at you is quite high. DON'T TAKE THE CHANCE...

I completely agree that with proper belts you will have the right tool for the job without the HIGH safety risk...
 
This is steel disk without teeth - flat with microscopic diamonds (Husky made) to cut ceramic (CPM 10V has 25% of vanadium carbides, so it is almost ceramic and so usual abrasive will not work well on it - for this reason not to many people make knives with CPM 10V or 15V). I do not think it will grab the blank I am working with, plus saw has cover as usual and only part which do the cut is open.

saw.jpg


The way I am using it - small unfinished cuts, strictly perpendicular to saw disk, so it is how it suppose to be used and no any side pressure on disk or something. I move it very slowly down as I get used to do to cat dence hardwood. I think to make bunch of this parallel cuts to form primary bevel - will be slightly hollow. I will not move blanc under saw, only make this bite, stop the blade, move blanc 2 mm or so fix it, make another bite, etc... Then finish it with belt.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
nozh2002 said:
This is steel disk without teeth - flat with microscopic diamonds (Husky made) to cut ceramic (CPM 10V has 25% of vanadium carbides, so it is almost ceramic and so usual abrasive will not work well on it - for this reason not to many people make knives with CPM 10V or 15V). I do not think it will grab the blank I am working with, plus saw has steel cover as usual and only part which do the cut is open.

saw.jpg


The way I am using it - small unfinished cuts, strictly perpendicular to saw disk, so it is how it suppose to be used and no any side pressure on disk or something. I move it very slowly down as I get used to do to cat dence hardwood. I think to make bunch of this parallel cuts to form primary bevel - will be slightly hollow. I will not move blanc under saw, only make this bite, stop the blade, move blanc 2 mm or so fix it, make another bite, etc... Then finish it with belt.

Thanks, Vassili.
Click to expand...

The saw in your photo is for use on wood. I have that exact same miter saw. If you want to try this, get a real abrasive cutoff saw. The speed of the rotating abrasive cutting head will be accurate. The blade will be of the correct compostion to cut metal, as it was intended to be used.

When cutting wood, I use my miter saw like the one you have pictured. When cutting metal, I use the abrasive cutoff saw.

I see what you're trying to do now. Basically, you're wanting to use the saw to remove material fast in a hollow grind pattern, by stopping your cut at a predetermined depth. It's a unique idea, and if you clamp you metal knife blank down it is as safe as using the saw to cut off pieces.

I think some of the folks here were thinking that you were going to put the cutting took into a table saw, which is definitely "NOT" a good idea.

Ickie
 
Vaya con Dios.

You're likely to meet him sooner than you think.

Seriously, take up another hobby. Stop using power tools or get some serious training. Your idea is one of the most dangerous and – how can I say this nicely? – incredibly stupid methods or working steel I have ever heard – even in the Internet!

Of course it is your life.

Edit: Forgot to mention CPM10V does NOT contain "25% vanadium crabide" or anything close. It contains less than 10% vanadium and can be ground and machined just like any other high alloy tool steel.
 
Kevin Wilkins said:
Vaya con Dios.

You're likely to meet him sooner than you think.

Seriously, take up another hobby. Stop using power tools or get some serious training. Your idea is one of the most dangerous and – how can I say this nicely? – incredibly stupid methods or working steel I have ever heard – even in the Internet!

Of course it is your life.
Click to expand...

Are you educated enough to make you point? Explain what you mean otherwise shut up! It is not matter of jokes you idiot.

Thanks, Vassili,
 
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