Grizzly 2X42 grinder

Contender Machine said:
I see that Grizzly discontinued the 3/4 HP version and replaced it with a 1 HP version. I'm not sure if anything else was changed.
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It looks like that extra 1/4 HP costs $100 as the price went up. The controller appears to be slightly different too.
 
Hopefully both motor and controller are more robust than original. If some may recall, original 3/4 hp motor had top speed of 5000rpm. Mine burnt up within a week. Then after a few months wait, the replacement motor’s max speed was 3750 (?), to help reduce overheating the system. My second and third motor/controller fried themselves after operating about 1 hour run time each. I really wanted this to work. Great size, and when functioning, did a great job. Good luck to all who have them.
 
A.McPherson said:
I believe the idea of a "waterfall" platen is to make a consistent radius to touch up the plunge. At least that's how I've seen it used.

It's supposed to be shaped like a "waterfall" where the belt is the "water" and the platen is the "cliff".

The belt moves around the edge of whatever radius you've set on the edge of the platen, then moves at 90° to the platen's surface, so you get a nice even radius at the plunge, while maintaining a 90°plunge line.

If you were going to use your current setup like that, you'd have to remove the front wheel, or extend the platen significantly, so the belt drops of the "cliff".
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This is about all I can get with a 42” belt and my platen configuration. IMG_2633.jpeg
 
With that setup be sure to use a "J" type flexible belt, and not very much tension on the belt. I might round off the end of the platen above the wheel so the belt is going over a radius rather than a sharp edge. You'll be amazed how good the blade looks after being ground that way. Even a 120 grit belt leaves a fairly nice finish. Then finish off with a 400 grit belt and almost no hand sanding required. Just a tad of hand sanding with 800 grit wet.
 
Ken H> said:
With that setup be sure to use a "J" type flexible belt, and not very much tension on the belt. I might round off the end of the platen above the wheel so the belt is going over a radius rather than a sharp edge. You'll be amazed how good the blade looks after being ground that way. Even a 120 grit belt leaves a fairly nice finish. Then finish off with a 400 grit belt and almost no hand sanding required. Just a tad of hand sanding with 800 grit wet.
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With the ceramic belt shown there is definitely tension on it. Any more and the gas strut would start to compress.
 
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aareeyesee said:
As far as the motor, it's wired like a stepper motor and someone could probably add a switch to make it reversible with some aggravation; but, I'm really just waiting for it to die and install a 1.3hp from servomotorkit to it.
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Do you know if that motor is reversible?
 
Today I made a tilting rest for the contact wheel. It will tilt to 45 degrees but to go more I would need to shorten the arm.
Having no previous experience using a contact wheel or a tilt table I have no idea of the benefits.IMG_2651.jpegIMG_2652.jpegIMG_2653.jpeg
 
That looks good - to grind away the bottom portion of the part that's touching the belt with the table rest tilted as much of an angle as you can get. This allows the edge of the metal to support the blade better. By adjusting the angle and positioning the rest just right you can do a nice hollow grind. With only a 6" wheel it won't be much of a hollow grind, but it will get the start making it easier to do by hand.

You're setting up that grinder nicely.
 
Problem with that setup is it would only hollow grind the edge. The table would have to project past the wheel for hollow grinding. Here is a photo of one in action. On a contact wheel it allows the curvature of the wheel to be exposed as a chord.

1736690307862.png
 
aareeyesee said:
I got one of the first out I guess about 13 months ago. I actually haven't had to replace anything yet. I put 4in tracking and a housemade tracking arm, arm for spring for adjustable tension, and run 2x48 for small wheel, 8" and a Caffery type platen. Have a full size flat 10" platen and t framed the arms for stiffness to run 72s also. I made a slack setup as well and with the 72 belt you can really get a slack belt. Like crazy slack. I enjoy fabrication even more than making knifes so how much tinkering your interested in def matters. Once the motor finally gives up Ive already spoken with servomotorkit and he has some stuff that will bolt right on and get reverse and double the hp for few hundred bucks. Stacy is correct if you count time and trouble I could have def bought a housemade or similar "real grinder" but then I wouldn't of had all this damn fun tinkering. If I woulda just spent 2k I wouldn't be able to drag my wife out to the forge to show off the new doodad I just spent 4 hrs making.
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Do you have contact info for servomotorkit? Would like a motor source when the factory motor craps out. Thanks
 
blackfrog said:
Do you have contact info for servomotorkit? Would like a motor source when the factory motor craps out. Thanks
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Those servo motors are available other places also. You might look at this one on Amazon: B0DLFLZ64P and perhaps 145952921142 on ebay. Basically a search for "750 watt servo motor" will turn up several sources.
"
 
Ken H> said:
Those servo motors are available other places also. You might look at this one on Amazon: B0DLFLZ64P and perhaps 145952921142 on ebay. Basically a search for "750 watt servo motor" will turn up several sources.
"
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I def agree with you. Though after speaking with him, how helpful he is in person and on social media, I would def point people his way. China is def still getting their money through him; but, his experience is worth a couple extra dollars imho.
 
You're right, personal contact is VERY important. From what you've said about him, I don't have a problem pointing folks his way
 
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