Grizzly belt grinder back order blues

WDB said:
Buy USA made.
And never use regular oil to lube those asian machines!
You must use Soy Sauce.
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I used to work in a print shop that was based around a Hamada (Japanese) sheet-fed press. Honest to cripes, when you opened the access door on the side, there was a plate riveted there, detailing the "LubLication Schedule". It didn't specify the grade or type of oil to lubLicate with. Let's not get started on the difference between American and Japanese c***-hairs when it comes to fine adjustments.

Seriously though, I've been asking a lot of questions about grinders, and here's my dumbest one yet: why shouldn't I buy a Delta or Craftsman 4"x36" grinder to get started? They're available here in stores for $100 or less. I'm honestly asking, what can a $400 2" grinder do that a $100 4" won't? (I'm just starting out.) Especially considering that the Grizzly I'm looking at seems to be in limbo, delivery-wise :(
 
I am wrestling with the same thing as GibsonFan. Although I am looking at the craftsman 2x42 belt sander.

I am also seriously considering building my own, but its definitely going to cost me more. I have the motor, scrap metal, but would have to buy wheels or turn my own, but I am not sure I want to do that.

I am thinking that to start with, I am better off buying a cheapy and upgrading later is my needs require it.
 
This one just sold on eBay for 50$
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GibsonFan said:
Seriously though, I've been asking a lot of questions about grinders, and here's my dumbest one yet: why shouldn't I buy a Delta or Craftsman 4"x36" grinder to get started? They're available here in stores for $100 or less. I'm honestly asking, what can a $400 2" grinder do that a $100 4" won't? (I'm just starting out.) Especially considering that the Grizzly I'm looking at seems to be in limbo, delivery-wise :(
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I've always thought the same thing. Now that I've seen this http://www.pointgallery.com/sharpen/pages/info and its only $16.95! I think it lets your $100 sander have almost the same ablity as the ones that cost $500+ not sure but it does look like it.
 
GibsonFan said:
Seriously though, I've been asking a lot of questions about grinders, and here's my dumbest one yet: why shouldn't I buy a Delta or Craftsman 4"x36" grinder to get started? They're available here in stores for $100 or less. I'm honestly asking, what can a $400 2" grinder do that a $100 4" won't? (I'm just starting out.) Especially considering that the Grizzly I'm looking at seems to be in limbo, delivery-wise :(
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Dudes...I'm about to see what a $1200 grinder will do. My KMG from Beaumont Metal Works showed up today and I am about to start some serious fun. I think the answer to your question is you make do with what you have BUT when you have a tool that is designed to do a certain job then the task is easier, faster, mo bettah etc., etc.
 
Kerry Hampton said:
Dudes...I'm about to see what a $1200 grinder will do. My KMG from Beaumont Metal Works showed up today and I am about to start some serious fun. I think the answer to your question is you make do with what you have BUT when you have a tool that is designed to do a certain job then the task is easier, faster, mo bettah etc., etc.
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That is true!! Now I've never seen a really knife grinder in person before so forgive me but what do they do to it to make it cost $1200?
 
Go to http://beaumontmetalworks.com/ and watch the videos. I bought the 10" contact wheel model, with spare tooling arm and 2 drive pulleys. I already have a motor I can put on it. The KMG is HEAVY, HEAVY duty steel with precision ground surfaces and turned and balanced pulleys/wheels. What is a tool that doesn't bounce around while you are trying to use it worth? I worked in my dads machine shop as a kid and have a good appreciation for something that is well made. This machine is very well made. It won't make knives for me but the precision of the KMG will make it less likely I will screw up expensive steel while in the process of trying to make a knife. Anyway...that's my opinion and you know what they say about those. :)
 
I understand what Kerry is saying about good tools. There's all kinds of things, like quality bearings, you might not think about looking at a catalog. My boss got a "good deal" on some bearings at work... they were a constant pain until we finally broke 'em all and got good ones, lol. A cheap machine isn't cheap if it's down or runs like crap... Like most things it boils down to how much you're able/willing to spend, I guess. For me it will depend on how much my Xmas bonus is this year.
 
Here's some pics of practicing a hollow grind on an old file. It came out so good I'm going to clean up the some of the file hash and make a dang usuable knife out of it.

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For reference purposes...the file is 10" ling and 3/4" wide and not annealed...yet.:p
 
Kerry, in my opinion you should finish that file knife but leave the remnants of the teeth on near the spine... I think it looks cool. Nice work, regardless :)
 
Nice work Kerry! That file is shaping up into a nice knife.
BTW I'm STILL waiting on the Grizzly. I may have to dump that idea and try something else.
Scott
 
I'd heat that sucker up and water quench it with the teeth still on the edge then leave it untempered! Run a $1 a chance strip card for "how many pieces will it break into" and make yerself some money! :D

Pretty even grinding, BTW.... :) Plenty of ricasso for a nice finger choil. ;)
 
WOW that is extremely nice I love the simple design. The file lines make it look sexy. GOOD JOB KERRY
 
Hey...somebody revived my thread!:D

Thanks for the kudos and ideas guys. That was my first practice with the KMG. I actually did something stupid with that thing and ended up breaking it. But the one right behind it turned out pretty good and I posted it in another thread.
 
scottang1 said:
Nice work Kerry! That file is shaping up into a nice knife.
BTW I'm STILL waiting on the Grizzly. I may have to dump that idea and try something else.
Scott
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Sorry to hear you are still waiting on the Grizzly. I was afraid of that and got too antsy to wait and went with the KMG as you know. If you can swing it, it will be worth the money. I was surprised at how smooth it ran and how easy it made grinding and just plain hoggin steel. I only have a 3/4 hp motor on mine and it is working for me just fine.
 
To try and answer the guys asking what a coote or KMG offers over the store bought belt sanders I will reiterate some things I've been told over the last few weeks. The main difference is the contact wheel as opposed to a small hard wheel poorly suited to contact grinding without generating to much heat. Second, in the same way hollow grinds become possible with belt grinders over sanders. Also belts cost about the same even for the cheaper machines so you will spend alot on belts if your machine uses short belts that get eaten up quicker and generate more heat. All that is in favor of the expensive contact wheel grinders, but there are some good points for the sanders. They are cheap and can do flat and convex grinds. In my case I can find the sanders in town and shipping on equipment isnt cheap. The 4" are supposed to be great for handle material working. I hope this is helpfull to people who asked. I started out trying to figure out the real difference in the two types of machines a little while ago and just ordered my coote and step pulleys. One way is cheaper in the short term but can and does work, you will end up upgrading sooner or later. Thats what I learned lol. If I got anything wrong feel free to flame away :)
 
BigJimSlade, Thank You for that post! I've been asking those questions for awhile now. The contact wheel design, and wear characteristics of the belts, are things I didn't know enough to ask about. I appreciate the info, it will help me a lot in my decision. :thumbup:
 
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