Grizzly Hardness Tester Problem

JG Custom Metal Works

JG Custom Metal Works

Joined
Nov 27, 2013
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This is the Wilton or Wilson Rockwell hardness tester clone. The issue is I'm testing one of the known hardness blocks that came with it. It's labeled 47.8C but it keeps testing at 45. I'm at least in the ballpark but it'd be nice to get it in the money. I'm pulling the loading lever to the front slowly, then giving the matching time to settle, and finally pushing the rear lever back slowly. This is exactly how the manual says to do it. Also, I'm testing on a new spot each time.

As far as I can tell there are two locations to adjust dial settings. There's a bolt in the front with a nut on top. I've adjusted it a bit to get the larger pointer pointed at the 12 o'clock position, on 0. The other location is in the back and in the manual it says it's the adjustment for the weight of the main load.

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, I'm not asking about what hardness tester I should or should have bought. I have this one and it's done. I feel like I have it close so hopefully it just needs some calibration.

Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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If I remember correctly, there were more than wood blocks that had to be removed. I want to say there was some plastic bracing in there as well. Take off the top and back and look in there. It's a fairly simple machine but the instructions are beyond horrible. Once you get it set up, it works great


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brettn said:
If I remember correctly, there were more than wood blocks that had to be removed. I want to say there was some plastic bracing in there as well. Take off the top and back and look in there. It's a fairly simple machine but the instructions are beyond horrible. Once you get it set up, it works great


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Click to expand...

Just took the top and back cover off. No Plastic pieces.
 
Better is to get used and calibrated US or European made HRC tester.
Now I waiting for a old good Łucznik PW-106 what was renovated and calibrated.
Only 620 USD.

Reading +/- 0,2 HRC :P
 
Kosa_PL said:
Better is to get used and calibrated US or European made HRC tester.
Now I waiting for a old good Łucznik PW-106 what was renovated and calibrated.
Only 620 USD.

Reading +/- 0,2 HRC :P
Click to expand...

I just dropped $950 on this one, how is that going to help me now? I'm not asking for recommendations on what hardness tester to buy.
 
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I believe you already know the basics of this test principles, but it is worth noting that:
- Surfaces involved (anvil and block) should be perfectly clean and degreased (remove any oil trace with alchool) since the oil film has a thickness which will squeeze under major load giving lower readings.
- Inspect under magnification the cone tip, should be PERFECT
- The block should be read only on the tested surface, never on the bottom.
- the first 3 readings should always be discarded, they are for taking out any slack from the system
- get a certyfied block in the range of 60+ hrc before trying to "calibrate" upon lower hrc. Your machine may be off for low ranges but good for knife steel hardnesses.
- until then try reading a good ball bearing race (on its side), should be 60-62 hrc...it will give you a ballpark idea.
 
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stezann said:
I believe you already know the basics of this test principles, but it is worth noting that:
- Surfaces involved (anvil and block) should be perfectly clean and degreased (remove any oil trace with alchool) since the oil film has a thickness which will squeeze under major load giving lower readings.
- Inspect under magnification the cone tip, should be PERFECT
- The block should be read only on the tested surface, never on the bottom.
- the first 3 readings should always be discarded, they are for taking out any slack from the system
- get a certyfied block in the range of 60+ hrc before trying to "calibrate" upon lower hrc. Your machine may be off for low ranges but good for knife steel hardnesses.
- until then try reading a good ball bearing race (on its side), should be 60-62 hrc...it will give you a ballpark idea.
Click to expand...

^^^Very Good Information^^^
 
My Grizzly is a consistent 2 points low on my 62 Rc block and about 5 points off on the low 40's black.
Thankfully I mostly work in the 62 to 64 Rc range so the compensation is not that bad.
I had my 62 Rc block that came with the tester certified, and have had a few knives independently tested to verify hardness accuracy.
It's a tester that I will never recommend to anyone to buy. It works decent for now but I could not get any support from Grizzly when I received it and had this problem.
I recommend you to get your block certified or buy one that is certified from a reputable dealer.
When I do get the opportunity though I will buy me a Wilson Rockwell Tester.
 
JG Custom Metal Works said:
Just took the top and back cover off. No Plastic pieces.
Click to expand...

I'll take a look at mine tonight and see if I can find anything to help you. I have a box somewhere with all the shipping braces I removed. Maybe that will shed some light


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brettn said:
I'll take a look at mine tonight and see if I can find anything to help you. I have a box somewhere with all the shipping braces I removed. Maybe that will shed some light


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Click to expand...

I ended up getting past the initial problems and discovered another one(as with everything in life). I changed my opening post to reflect the new problem. I got the dials moving. Now they're just giving inconsistent readings.
 
stezann said:
I believe you already know the basics of this test principles, but it is worth noting that:
- Surfaces involved (anvil and block) should be perfectly clean and degreased (remove any oil trace with alchool) since the oil film has a thickness which will squeeze under major load giving lower readings.
- Inspect under magnification the cone tip, should be PERFECT
- The block should be read only on the tested surface, never on the bottom.
- the first 3 readings should always be discarded, they are for taking out any slack from the system
- get a certyfied block in the range of 60+ hrc before trying to "calibrate" upon lower hrc. Your machine may be off for low ranges but good for knife steel hardnesses.
- until then try reading a good ball bearing race (on its side), should be 60-62 hrc...it will give you a ballpark idea.
Click to expand...

Thanks a bunch for the information. I wiped all the oil off but not with alcohol. I'll get after that right now.

My jewelers loop is handy from honing straight razors so I'll get on checking that penetrator too.

They inlcuded a higher HRC block or two if I remember correctly. Hopefully that will work. I think I still have an old blade or two that Tru-Grit heat treated/tested I could test higher HRC with(until I get another known HRC block).

Again, thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

BTW Don, I never get tired of seeing that damascus guard and bolster. ;)
 
Big Chris said:
My Grizzly is a consistent 2 points low on my 62 Rc block and about 5 points off on the low 40's black.
Thankfully I mostly work in the 62 to 64 Rc range so the compensation is not that bad.
I had my 62 Rc block that came with the tester certified, and have had a few knives independently tested to verify hardness accuracy.
It's a tester that I will never recommend to anyone to buy. It works decent for now but I could not get any support from Grizzly when I received it and had this problem.
I recommend you to get your block certified or buy one that is certified from a reputable dealer.
When I do get the opportunity though I will buy me a Wilson Rockwell Tester.
Click to expand...

Well if that's the case with mine then that seems to jive with the 2 points low thing. I'm a little early in the game to tell though.

The thing is, I did a a good amount of research(on here and other places) about this tester and came back with generally good reviews. I really hope I'll be able to get this one figured out. As Brettn mentioned, it's a fairly simple mechanism and hopefully the Chicoms made mine to be functional.
 
Don Hanson III said:
Cool, thanks!

I will add to keep your eyes open for a Wilson.
I bought three & the best one cost $200. You can always sell the Grizzly later. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Oh believe me, I will. I compulsively check local classifieds tool sections. There's not a ton of deals that come up in my area but I'll occasionally find a diamond in the rough.
 
Ive looked for years for a hardness tester locally(I mean 100 mile +/-) and have yet to find one...All of the machine shops in this part of the world were tied to the coal industry and the majority never had a hardness tester anyway..Not a single machine shop closing Ive tried has ever had one and that's a lot..
This is just one of those parts of the world were its very hard to find certain machines.. Ive got a buddy down the road who happens to have a grizzly tester just like the one the Op is talking about that I can use but luckily his is pretty much spot on..
 
I have the HR150A as well. Mine reads a consistent .5 point off. I think as stezann mentioned, it may just come down to being more fastidious in your prep. When you figure it out let us know how you resolved the problem.
 
I have a HR150A that I got from MSC 8 or so years, ago. Seems to be fairly accurate... The manual I have has a procedure for adjusting... Remove the top cover. On the beam that runs to the dial, forward of the pivot there is a plate that has 2 screws attaching it to the beam and a threaded rod that runs up from the Indenter shaft. DO NOT adjust center indenter shaft screw or nut(manual is very clear on this!). Manual says to loosen 2 fore and aft screws and slide plate forward "a little" to increase measured value, slide rearward to decrease measured value. Tighten screws and perform another measurement, then adjust again if necessary.
 
A quick question, taking advantage of the theme...
In your units, does the long arrow go past the "0" if you go past the red dot when applying the minor load? In mine the long arrow stops at 0 while the small arrow could go past the 3"red dot". To get consistent readings i have to go past the 3 by the small arrow thickness (it is the same small offset to 0 the small arrow have at unloaded machine condition), of course if i go past the 3 more than that the readings are unreliable and if i stay a litlle before the 3 i have 1-2 hrc variability in my measures...the correct preload ensures something like 0,2 variability. The HRC is not linear, and while the minor load won't be "read" it will significantly influence how much surface area of the cone will work on the further penetration. When something sounds off first thing to do is being sure of your minor load, in my opinion.
I believe that a bombproof minor load setup is the keypoint to get consistent readings, that's why i suggest, inìf available, to use the mechanical stop which fix the minor load for all the readings. In my unit it is an outer cone with a screw/counterscrew that could be lowered leaving the brale protruding just the amount of the minor load that i know will work.
 
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