Grizzly knife grinder

I hollow grind on my 8" Grizzly wheel from the left side. Clearance is tight, but it can be done without too much problem.
 
this is tuff i am struggling to figure out what i can buy myself with very limited funds and no funds for the fore sea able future. the truth of the fact is there isnt a good grinder that is economical. the KMG while maybe the best is so expensive that the average guy has no chance to get one. the NWBG is almost 1,000 well heck you might as well buy a KMG. and a grand is quite prohibitive also. people say the Coote is good but after looking that, it is $800 to get going, and thats close to a grand. next is the grizzly and its $500 with shipping and while yes many have them it seems split for and against. its too fast not versatile enough, hard to hollow grind etc. and everything else that is reasonably priced every one says is crap.

do i have it right? it seems what is needed is for some one to design a entry level grinder that will work and give some kind of control.

jake
 
Jake, I'm in the same boat. I just bought a Craftsman after my POS delta finally died. I hate buying a machine I know I'm going to want to replace, but it's just too big a jump for me to go from $130 to $1500 or so right now :( I'm consoling myself by saying when I move up to a pro machine I'll keep this around for handle work or something.

I'm surprised no one mentioned... I think the biggest problem about these hobby grinders is the platen. It's REALLY difficult to get right onto the edge of the belt to cut a nice plunge.

I blew up a lot of belts trying to cheat and track the belt off to the right (where it always managed to rub on something no matter how I modified the guard.) I almost always have to clean up my plunge cuts with a file, and sometimes I even start them that way to avoid trouble later.

Oh yeah and don't count on the disk sander to square things up, it doesn't track true enough. You could chase around a block on that thing all day and never quite get it square. Please don't ask me how I know this. Also, it would be folly to try to hollow grind on a 2" contact wheel, so if that's a must... get a second job or something.

Having said that, I may be crazy but I think I'm gonna put my next $1000 or so into a heat-treat furnace. I already know I can shape a blade with my humble machine and some elbow grease, but no amount of sanding will HT the darn thing! :D
 
james,

i feel ya. i am looking at being stuck with the sears 2x42 as the only option to buy right now. i havent bought it yet tho. i have a delta 1x30 and it is ok for a little grinder but your right about the plunge lines. i got a good tip from some one on here (sorry i dont remember who) about using a chain saw file and guide to cut your plunge lines in. i havent tried it yet but it i think the idea is sound.

i have also considered just trying to learn to forge blades but i am sure there is still some grinding to do so i would be right back at square one.

jake
 
I've got the sears 2x42. Platen can be modified, but is crappy from the factory. Still, beats the heck out of files and sandpaper for the whole thing. Grizzly is next step up, then probably the NWG or Coote, then you're into KMG/Bader money.
 
Yeah even the forgers often say they still have to clean up plunges.

+1 on the chainsaw file... I use a 1/2" square file that really hogs steel to set mine sometimes. The resulting plunge can be either left almost square or smoothed out to your liking with a rat-tail. It does work but I think it would be faster with a good platen.

Guys, would I be crazy to make a flat steel piece to go between the belt and platen, so I could set its width to match the actual belt? Maybe JB-Weld it on there. I know I'd have to at least bevel the head and tail so the belt would drag on it. But it seems like there's enough leeway in the belt tension and it should work... whattaya think? jkf96a, is this what you were getting at? (you posted while I was still thinkin)
EDIT (again)
on those files for cutting plunges (and guard shoulders for that matter) make sure you grind one side flat! Please don't make me explain it, you know what it's for ;)
 
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May I point out (and have done so repeatedly) that you don't NEED a grinder to make knives, especially if you forge. Work with what you have until you can make the money through sales to move up. Now I know that I have a nice grinder NOW but I started with the same or worse POS Craftsman 3x21 belt sander a lot of you have.

You ever seen a sen remove metal? :eek: at least on carbon steel. Don Fogg has a some instructions on how to make one out of a file. A sen and draw filing is not that much slower than grinding if you did a decent job of forging.
 
James_Terrio said:
I do draw-filing all the time Will, but what the dickens is a sen? Some kind of scraper-type-object?
Click to expand...


Here's some cross site links to Don Fogg's explanation and a short picture tutorial, they're really simple to make, last one I made I used a broken file and just forged another handle to match the factory one (after grinding the teeth off of course.) A sen is basically a draw knife used for metal instead of wood.

http://www.dfoggknives.com/tools.htm

http://www.dfoggknives.com/photogallery/MakingSen/makingsen.htm
 
WILL LEAVITT dont ever think your crashing my thread i want all advice good or bad . I dont know about you but i hate wasting money . I would rather spend a few extra dollars and buy a better grinder than not be happy in 6 months or a year. I buy as close to top line stuff as i can so i dont waste time and money in the future. I had this guy offer to sell me a single for 600 2x72 no motor im noit sure. It had a large spring at the top is that common for adjustment ot tension. WHAT DO ALL OF YOU THINK ABOUT THIS ONE. http://www.suremak.com/grinder.html be honest if a coot is better in your opinion lets hear it i cant afford more than 800 and it wont be till next month.I also need a large 8 inch disc sander variable speed and reversable . the same guy said 450 canadian cash seems not too bad LET ME KNOW . THANKS YA ALL Kelly W
 
I would go for the http://www.suremak.com/grinder.html.
I have the Coote but got it second hand. The Coote will cost you exchange duty and is a heck of a thing to get shipped up to the frozen north,( don't ask how I know) so all things being equal ( never are really), the suremark is in Canada already a big plus. I do not think it is any less a grinder either.
Cheers Ron.
 
Knut at Suremak also has a three wheel grinder that I like much better than the two wheel. He is a talented person and I have respect for his products.

Coote has been around much longer - and history is worth something especially if you need support 5 or ten years down the road.

Grinders, for the most part, don't go up in price because of their name. They go up due to precision, quality control, complex design and features. You get what you pay for.

I started with a hacksaw and files - a brief excursion with a 1 x 30, which was better than hacksaw and files. I then moved to a craftsman 2 x 42 - which was WAY better than the 1 x 30 (which ate belts in large quantities three times a day).

Then I moved up to the Bee variable and have never looked back or needed more.

Here are my suggestions.

  • buy the best one you can afford. (This is fair because I know the Bee is not on the list)
  • Three wheel is better than two wheel.
  • Don't even think about the Coote disc in reverse - It makes a nasty frisbee!!!!
  • If I were in your position, I would try to get Knut's 3 wheel inside your budget - even if I had to run it on a POS motor for a while. Failing that, I'd look at his two wheel as better than the Coote - but a distant afterchoice to any three wheel.
My last piece of advice came from a friend who is an auto mechanic. I guess it's more of a quote.

"It's a poor craftsman who blames his tools." Someone already said you can make a knife with files - less if you want to try flint knapping. Get what you can - make some knives - and look forward to the next chapter.

Maybe a more meaningful way of saying it would be - concentrate on your abilities - it's not really productive to dwell on wat you haven't got.

Rob!
 
I actually went with the grizzly. I need a responsible priced machine. I would as suggested getting the 10'' wheel to go with it. I just finished up 8 knives for a gun show this week. I love it. I can rough grind a blade in 15 minutes or less.
One thing I am going to replace is the platen. I want something a little better that graphite that is on there. It is wearing quickly.
Great machine for the money. I did use my 1x30 to touch up the edges. A Great combo together. So I am very happy. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
I just got myself a Grizzly w/ 10" wheel as well. I have contemplated it for a while but this thread pushed me over. I had done everything before now by hand filing or a HF 1x30. This is a HUGE improvement. Great purchase indeed.:thumbup:
 
so does the 10 inch wheel allow you to grind easily with out the motor getting in the way like you hear with the smaller wheel?

jake
 
James_Terrio said:
Guys, would I be crazy to make a flat steel piece to go between the belt and platen, so I could set its width to match the actual belt? Maybe JB-Weld it on there. I know I'd have to at least bevel the head and tail so the belt would drag on it. But it seems like there's enough leeway in the belt tension and it should work... whattaya think? jkf96a, is this what you were getting at? (you posted while I was still thinkin)
EDIT (again)
on those files for cutting plunges (and guard shoulders for that matter) make sure you grind one side flat! Please don't make me explain it, you know what it's for ;)
Click to expand...

I actually have a ceramic tile installed on my 4x36. I got a carbide tile bit for my dremel and cut the tile to the same width of a 4" belt, and glued it on with epoxy. I have been using this solid for almost two years now and the surface of the tile is only scratched a little. Recently I used my die grinder to cut into the steel on the sides a little to allow more clearance when profiling blades.
 
BlackToe Knives said:
With all new parts around $900.00 US. I am looking into it now.
Click to expand...

Woe,Where did that number come from? I built my NWG for under $200.00
Up and running. I did a lot or research and made my idler and tracking wheels out of scrap plywood. all of my steel was from the local recycle yard. at 00.45 cents a pound. The motor a friend found at the swap-meet for $20.00 Its even an American made motor. When I made a few dollars I replaced the wooden wheels with new aluminum wheels from
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/ To tell the truth the aluminum wheels were only a tiny improvement. (in other words the wooden wheels worked fine) Now this was for a very basic, flat platen only grinder. I used step pulleys so I have 4 speeds, From terrifyingly fast to crawl.
I still use my Grizzly every day, Have no regrets on that purchase either. I don't have any problems with tracking with the Grizzly and can hollow grind just fine with it. Once again I did a lot of research before I got it and was familiar with all the quarks of the machine.
My advise would be to at least invest in the plans from http://www.usaknifemaker.com/ Tracy thought these out so well that if you cant build one from his plans you need to leave tools alone.
 
I have a Grizzly grinder, and it was my first. I have used it for about 3 years, but have just bought a Bader III. I think it (the Grizz) is a good entry level piece of equipment. If you can learn to grind on a Grizz, then you will know when you are ready for an upgrade, as you will become proficient enough to realize that your grinder is holding you back a bit. That said, if you can get a grinder with a variable speed motor at a price you can afford, I might go that way. Good luck!
 
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