Grizzly knife grinder

gixxer said:
I actually have a ceramic tile installed on my 4x36.
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This was suggested to me elsewhere, too. Worth looking into.

I've had the Craftsman 2x42 up and running for a few days now. It's not a professional machine, but it is a huge step up from the 4x36 in every respect. It tracks better, cuts faster, is more accesible, and the disk sander is actually stable enough to square-up things pretty well. There is plenty of room above the platen to do slack-belt work. It runs much quieter and smoother. New guys, DO NOT buy a 4x36, go for the 2x42! The cost difference is around $40 max. I am far more productive on this machine, and it's easier to get things right the first time. I can't believe how long I tortured myself with that damn 4x36... frankly, I'm glad it died, or I'd likely still be fighting with it.

On the other hand, it's a real pain to change belts. The tension release works slick, but there's other stuff in the way... darn safety features! :D I'm running mine with the side plate off, but I still have to loosen the work table and remove the lower belt-guard to change a belt. I try to keep my belts clean, and use one up before I switch, to avoid this.

The platen pretty much sucks, although it's still much easier to work on than the 4x36. Just the fact that you can set it vertically is a huge help, for me at least. There is clearance on either side of the belt/platen, so you can grind both sides edge-up. I will face my platen with either steel or ceramic as people suggested. (I think ceramic might "run" cooler?)

I think it would be a bit of a challenge to hollow-grind on it, but that's not an issue for me. Unless you mount it so the belt side hangs off the edge of your bench, it leaves a heckuva mess on the bench... I think I'll rearrange my bench to address this.

All in all, if you're on a budget like me, I highly recommend this grinder until you save up for a really serious machine like the KMG or Bader. I'm going to skip the intermediate Grizzly and save my pennies for one of those.
 
bjalongi said:
This question comes up so often that we should have a detailed comparison of all the grinder options from a HF 1x42 up to the best grinder around in the Newbies forum. Perhaps one of the next really good threads about grinders could get a link. What do you think moderators?

Just a thought.
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The value of such a survey to n00bs like myself cannot be overstated. Mods / people who own and run these machines, PLEASE put this together. Thanks in advance.
 
James_Terrio said:
I've had the Craftsman 2x42 up and running for a few days now. It's not a professional machine, but it is a huge step up from the 4x36 in every respect. New guys, DO NOT buy a 4x36, go for the 2x42! The cost difference is around $40 max. I am far more productive on this machine, and it's easier to get things right the first time. I can't believe how long I tortured myself with that damn 4x36... frankly, I'm glad it died, or I'd likely still be fighting with it. (I think ceramic might "run" cooler?) .
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I do have to admit my 4x36 has a boatload of miles on it, and it's still ticking. It still has a place next to my 2x72.

Actual pyroceram does run cooler cause it is so smooth. less friction to warm things up. I bet even using a plain jane smooth ceramic tile is still cooler than plain steel.
 
That's what I was thinking, gixxer. Someone around here told me they just got some tile at Lowe's or somewhere and it worked ok.
 
Rob! said:
Knut at Suremak also has a three wheel grinder that I like much better than the two wheel. He is a talented person and I have respect for his products.

Coote has been around much longer - and history is worth something especially if you need support 5 or ten years down the road.

Grinders, for the most part, don't go up in price because of their name. They go up due to precision, quality control, complex design and features. You get what you pay for.

I started with a hacksaw and files - a brief excursion with a 1 x 30, which was better than hacksaw and files. I then moved to a craftsman 2 x 42 - which was WAY better than the 1 x 30 (which ate belts in large quantities three times a day).

Then I moved up to the Bee variable and have never looked back or needed more.

Here are my suggestions.

  • buy the best one you can afford. (This is fair because I know the Bee is not on the list)
  • Three wheel is better than two wheel.
  • Don't even think about the Coote disc in reverse - It makes a nasty frisbee!!!!
  • If I were in your position, I would try to get Knut's 3 wheel inside your budget - even if I had to run it on a POS motor for a while. Failing that, I'd look at his two wheel as better than the Coote - but a distant afterchoice to any three wheel.
My last piece of advice came from a friend who is an auto mechanic. I guess it's more of a quote.

"It's a poor craftsman who blames his tools." Someone already said you can make a knife with files - less if you want to try flint knapping. Get what you can - make some knives - and look forward to the next chapter.

Maybe a more meaningful way of saying it would be - concentrate on your abilities - it's not really productive to dwell on wat you haven't got.

Rob!
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I agree, You need to watch Tim Lively's Knifemaking Unplugged.
 
I have a crafstman 2x42 grinder. I made a few adjustments and now it works good for making knives. First I gorilla glued a 2 inch wide piece of 1095 to the platen so I can make my plunge cuts. I also had to file the groove in the platen arms to allow it to fully come in contact with the belt. I also removed the lower belt guard and side covers to allow quick belt removal. I will probably also mount a larger flat steel plate to the work table to make it a little larger. It works pretty good for a 50 dollar pawn shop find. One drawback is availability of belts. When I had a 2x48 grinder I could go to one of the local discount tool shops for belts. They are unable to get 2x42 belts so I have to order them. I do however use the easy to find 1x48 belts to shape handles with the platen removed. I have had a nicer grinder in the past, and if you can pay more I would go with a better grinder. But, for those of you limited in knifemaking funds, this is a good way to go.
 
One thing I would like to point out about the grizzly is that you can start with it and someday when all goes well get a KMG and then use the Grizzly parts to make a semi KMG clone. The contact wheel can be mounted on a shaft with pillow block bearings and used on a receiver or reworked to take bearings and used exactly like a regular wheel. The idler wheel can be adapted to use on a KMG type receiver machine. You just need to do some welding and get a drive wheel. My first machine was a homemade 2 wheel job a lot like a Grizzly. After I got my KMG I was so impressed with it I used the homemade grinders piece to make a clone. Jim
 
I was hollow grinding a 18" bowie on my griz.Now the work bench is too high so I made a movable platform to stand on.My two Rats ran a possom through there right between my feet,and caught him 2 ft in front of me. I sorta tripped up some, but the blade got turned and caught up in the 10" wheel, cut 2" down the rubber and into the alum for about 1/2" completely broke off all of the work rest. Lost the wheel, work rest, new belt ,and my britches--damn possom.
PS 01 knife blade was fine
 
Has anyone used the Wilton 2X42? I have their 1X42 and it seems well made - but not a 2X.
 
I used a 1x42 for a while. Then i ordered a coote grinder with a 10 inch wheel. I set it up with a 1 hp motor. I live in Canada and with the shipping and exchange and motor all set up it cost me around $950. I put some graphite on my platen. It works quite well.
 
You simply can not buy another 2X72 grinder cheaper than the Grizzly. 2X72 belts last a lot longer. The contact wheel works well for hollow grinding. The platen has a graphite strip that is a lot softer than steel or tile platens. The other side of the Grizzly motor has a nice 1750 RPM buffer, or you can convert it to a drum sander. There is a 10" contact wheel available. The Grizzly takes up much less bench space than a KMG.
 
Your right about the price Bill. Most of us get by on getting the most "bang for our buck." I read a post somewhere about extreemly poor customer service from Griz. I
contacted Kalamazoo because my drive wheel nut wasn't properly tightened from the factory. It resulted in a worn shaft and wheel. They didn't ask me where or when I bought it, just asked what I needed and I got it 5 days later. Without good customer service a $5000 grinder isn't worth anything. I'm not saying I know anything about the quality and service from Grizzly but I'm just passing on what I read.
I built a house 3 years ago, spent $14000 on top quality appliances from Sears. My $1200 washer sounds like a jackhammer and walks all over the room. Sears has been out 9 times to repair it, but never solved the problem. At one point a rep on the phone accused me of overloading and damaging the stainless steel drum. I'm sold on Craftsman tools but will never buy or recommend any of their appliances.
 
bloodyfingers said:
how about a Kalamazoo? I hooked up a 2X48 to a variable speed grinder for under $350
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I have a Kalamazoo that I've had for 20 years, it was a piece of S#%t when I bought it, but it was all I could afford. The Baldor motor it came with is great, I have had to modify the grinder portion itself somewhat to make it usable. My stepfather wanted a grinder like mine, so I convinced him to get the Grizzly. The belts last 3 times longer, I threw out the stupic cloth/graphite platen cover after the secoond blade because it dished so bad, and put a piece of hardened O1 in its place. Th grizzly doesn't allow belt edge plunges because of the long belt throw (the belt just runs away from you)
I am going to build a Bader clone when I get my tax refund

-Page
 
skilldust, that sounds like something that would happen to me? Sorry to hear about the equipment. I am glad you are ok. You kin to any of the Granthams, Ashleys, or Fouls?
 
the KMG while maybe the best is so expensive that the average guy has no chance to get one
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All depends on where you put your priorities. I started with a 1 x 42 and a 4 x 36 , used those , burned up the first 4 x 36 , 2nd one is still going. Those are good enuff to get you started though the 2 x 42 would be better for knifemaking.

I saved and scrimped and got the Bader BIII variable ( though I actually would recommend the KMG over the BIII now ).

A friend had just got a new Grizzly , he dropped by the shop , checked out the Bader , 1 week later he had a new Bader .

Funny thing is , no matter what you get now , even if you upgrade later , your old machine will still see use. My 4 x 36 still sees use daily , as does either of the two 1 x 42 's.

For the price of the Griz , you could get 2 x 42 , change the pulleys to slow it down , and get a used motor (1725 ) rpm and make a 9" disk sander setup. With those two you would be well on your way.

After the Bader , I like the reversible 1 1/2 HP 9" disc in my shop 2nd best.

The reason there are no cheap alternatives , is precision , and durability cost. Plus we are all picky SOB's and want all the options and the ability to switch from contact wheel , to small wheel ,to platen and to slack belt in the blink of an eye.

Best advice is get what you can to get you going , and upgrade later , its a piece of machinery for the shop , you can always use it for something. Just don't buy something you are going to outgrow right away and become frustrated with.
 
Hay Cal
Pappy told me long ago -'son, your one of a kind and don't claim kin to nobody.'
But every once in a while I hear Grantham come up.
 
I've just started making knives, and am having great fun doing so, but I also have been looking to buy a belt grinder/ sander that should last for a while. Based on reviews by others, it seems like the Craftsman 2 x 42 in. Belt/6 in. Disc Sander http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921513000P?vName=Tools&cName=Bench+Power+Tools&sName=Sanders is a good initial grinder/ sander. Could anyone recommend some good grits of belts to start with for grinding blades, and for sanding/ mirror finishing them? Are there any belt manufacturers you all experienced knifemakers would recommend or avoid?

Thanks for your help,
Hessand
 
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