Guardians of The Lambsfoot!

[Jack Black]

Nice one, Jack, and sound advice, my friend.

Hallam is also an industrial suburb in the east of Melbourne.

I must admit, I'm warming to the 'Lambshank' as a nickname.

I was chuckling, thinking of the name 'The Crookes and Hallam Lambshank'...

LOL! I thought of the Hallam & Crookes connection just before I read that! Both Hallam and Crookes are also the names of parts of Sheffield. I have lived in both. Hallam is the larger of the two as it gives its name to a whole (political) constituency. It's also the name of the local Sheffield commercial radio station. Sadly, Jem Hallam was not the man Sam Crookes was!

[Hallam & Crookes were two union hit-men in the employ of the Sheffield Saw-Grinders' Union in the 19th century]

 

[Jack Black]

My Lambsfoot of the day

 

[Bartleby]

LOL! I thought of the Hallam & Crookes connection just before I read that! Both Hallam and Crookes are also the names of parts of Sheffield. I have lived in both. Hallam is the larger of the two as it gives its name to a whole (political) constituency. It's also the name of the local Sheffield commercial radio station. Sadly, Jem Hallam was not the man Sam Crookes was!

[Hallam & Crookes were two union hit-men in the employ of the Sheffield Saw-Grinders' Union in the 19th century]

Hallam & Crookes Lambshank. The slang meaning of "shank" as a noun refers to a cutting tool that is of one's own design and execution, and is not quite as nasty as "Shiv." Hallam & Crookes Lambshank does have a ring about it....

 

[screened porch]

I think I'm about done messing with this one.
After I'd ground the blade back to 3",the taper seemed to have disappeared. Looks like it narrowed only from the swell of the nail nick, and the narrow end of course got filed off. I managed to restore a bit of taper with my auto-body file, but if I go further back I'm going to end up with a narrower blade overall than I want.

 

[AShearer]

I think I'm about done messing with this one.
After I'd ground the blade back to 3",the taper seemed to have disappeared. Looks like it narrowed only from the swell of the nail nick, and the narrow end of course got filed off. I managed to restore a bit of taper with my auto-body file, but if I go further back I'm going to end up with a narrower blade overall than I want.

@scrteened . Trying to make sure I understand? Do you have a before picture? When you say taper, do you mean the blade had an inward curve or a belly? Not sure I get it, but I want to learn what you did.

 

[AShearer]

I just love this knife. I posted it a few days ago, but I can't help myself So, I'm going to post it again, this gift from Jack Black < The real Jack Black. This is such a useful knife. I do wonder though, since I have not had a horn knife (except stag), is there any downside to carrying this in a leather slip for, let's say several days?

 

[Cambertree]

Jer, you can put a swedge on the top of the spine, from just behind the tip to about 1/3 or 1/2 way back. That narrows the spine and allows you to restore a thin taper out to the tip, while maintaining the flats. You start at a 45 degree angle and adjust from there. This helps cutting in thick material too, like heavy cardboard, and helps prevent the blade from 'steering' offline. Think of a Tidioute style swedge. Looks fine though. I like to see folk modifying knives to their needs.

Thanks for the further info Jack - Lambshank probably works ok as a bit of a tongue-in-cheek nickname among knife folk in the know.

If/when in the future I might be able to make some more, I would like to do some slight variants - one in a pocket sheath with a small torch, another with a firesteel etc and I will save up the names everyone suggested for different types.

Thanks for the suggestions, my friends!

 

[Jack Black]

I think I'm about done messing with this one.
After I'd ground the blade back to 3",the taper seemed to have disappeared. Looks like it narrowed only from the swell of the nail nick, and the narrow end of course got filed off. I managed to restore a bit of taper with my auto-body file, but if I go further back I'm going to end up with a narrower blade overall than I want.

That's interesting Jer

I just love this knife. I posted it a few days ago, but I can't help myself So, I'm going to post it again, this gift from Jack Black < The real Jack Black. This is such a useful knife. I do wonder though, since I have not had a horn knife (except stag), is there any downside to carrying this in a leather slip for, let's say several days?

Glad you're liking the Lambsfoot pattern Alan I think it'll be fine my friend

 

[AShearer]

That's interesting Jer



Glad you're liking the Lambsfoot pattern Alan I think it'll be fine my friend

'Thank you sir. I wouldn't want it to turn green or something

 

[Cambertree]

I just love this knife. I posted it a few days ago, but I can't help myself So, I'm going to post it again, this gift from Jack Black < The real Jack Black. This is such a useful knife. I do wonder though, since I have not had a horn knife (except stag), is there any downside to carrying this in a leather slip for, let's say several days?

It's an absolute gem, you got there Alan - use and carry it with pride, my friend.

I've had a South African hunting knife with buff handles in a leather sheath (and Ren waxed blade) for several years, with no ill effects. You might notice some minute dimensional changes with weather and humidity but that's it.

(I'm assuming the slip's vegetable tanned leather - nearly all proper knife sheaths and slips are.)

Edit: that green colour you see on some old sheath knives, especially ones with homemade sheaths tends to be from chromium tanned leather reacting with brass, including 'nickel silver' brass.

 

[AShearer]

It's an absolute gem, you got there Alan - use and carry it with pride, my friend.

I've had a South African hunting knife with buff handles in a leather sheath (and Ren waxed blade) for several years, with no ill effects. You might notice some minute dimensional changes with weather and humidity but that's it.

(I'm assuming the slip's vegetable tanned leather - nearly all proper knife sheaths and slips are.)

Edit: that green colour you see on some old sheath knives, especially ones with homemade sheaths tends to be from chromium tanned leather reacting with brass, including 'nickel silver' brass.

Thank you Cambertree I have only newly purchased CK and Hitch and Timber slips. I'm planning on carrying it a lot, but I like a slip in case I lose my mind and put keys in my pocket or something.

I've seen the edges of stag turn green from reacting with brass. I always wondered if that was caused or accelerated by carry in leather due to moisture or something?

 

[screened porch]

@scrteened . Trying to make sure I understand? Do you have a before picture? When you say taper, do you mean the blade had an inward curve or a belly? Not sure I get it, but I want to learn what you did.

I think I have a before pic, but the difference isn't huge.
Be back in a sec.

Thing is, a lambsfoot's back should angle toward the edge all the way, but this was a super cheap one. The nail-nick stamp caused a swell above the nick, and the factory taper started at the nail nick (the blade is narrower aft of the nick). After I'd ground back the narrowest part of the blade to get it back to 3 inches, the taper was not very obvious. It looked kind of like a long coping blade. So I filed a bit of an angle from the back toward the edge, starting at around the nail nick. (If I went all the way back to the handle with the angle toward the edge, I'd be getting rid of more blade than I want to, and I'd be filing into the nail nick.) So I'm done fooling with this not because I've accomplished my mission, but because I don't want to mess it up worse.
But really, I haven't done much between before and after but to convince myself that after looks a very little better than before.

Honestly, looking at the two pictures, I don't see any difference either. But I'm still done, before I do something worse.

 

[Bartleby]

It's an absolute gem, you got there Alan - use and carry it with pride, my friend.

I've had a South African hunting knife with buff handles in a leather sheath (and Ren waxed blade) for several years, with no ill effects. You might notice some minute dimensional changes with weather and humidity but that's it.

(I'm assuming the slip's vegetable tanned leather - nearly all proper knife sheaths and slips are.)

Edit: that green colour you see on some old sheath knives, especially ones with homemade sheaths tends to be from chromium tanned leather reacting with brass, including 'nickel silver' brass.

Just to add on to this good advice, put a little mineral oil or Vaseline on the horn about once a year, it has restored some dried out horn for me in the past, and prevents it from getting dried out if you use a little once a year or so. Also, don't panic about dimensional changes. They tend to return to normal when humidity levels go back down. It is surprisingly tough stuff.

 

[AShearer]

I think I have a before pic, but the difference isn't huge.
Be back in a sec.

Thing is, a lambsfoot's back should angle toward the edge all the way, but this was a super cheap one. The nail-nick stamp caused a swell above the nick, and the factory taper started at the nail nick (the blade is narrower aft of the nick). After I'd ground back the narrowest part of the blade to get it back to 3 inches, the taper was not very obvious. It looked kind of like a long coping blade. So I filed a bit of an angle from the back toward the edge, starting at around the nail nick. (If I went all the way back to the handle with the angle toward the edge, I'd be getting rid of more blade than I want to, and I'd be filing into the nail nick.) So I'm done fooling with this not because I've accomplished my mission, but because I don't want to mess it up worse.
But really, I haven't done much between before and after but to convince myself that after looks a very little better than before.

Honestly, looking at the two pictures, I don't see any difference either. But I'm still done, before I do something worse.

Thanks Jer. I can understand now what you were describing. I think I see a little difference, but my eyes might be fooling me.

By the way. Idle Thoughts of an Idle Fellow?

 

[AShearer]

Just to add on to this good advice, put a little mineral oil or Vaseline on the horn about once a year, it has restored some dried out horn for me in the past, and prevents it from getting dried out if you use a little once a year or so. Also, don't panic about dimensional changes. They tend to return to normal when humidity levels go back down. It is surprisingly tough stuff.

Thanks Bartleby! Good advice. I will follow it, if I can remember long enough By the way. Any thoughts about Ren Wax on horn?

 

[Cambertree]

Your knife is beautiful. And I like all the names.
But I would name it the Guardian, after this thread.

Thanks for the compliment Richard, and thanks for dropping by.

I like your name suggestion, and think it would be well suited to a 4" bladed version of that knife, like a fixed version of Jack's outstanding, striated caramel coloured A. Wright Lambsfoot.

Thanks Bartleby! Good advice. I will follow it, if I can remember long enough By the way. Any thoughts about Ren Wax on horn?

It should be fine, Alan. I usually apply some oil on handles of natural materials, as Bart advised, and let that sink in, then seal with a couple of layers of Ren Wax, buffing each after a minute, or so.

I like the smooth, cool texture of Ren Wax, but I don't tend to use it on my Ox-horn Lambsfoot, myself, preferring that natural, glassy feel which becomes grippy when wet, like micarta.

 

[AShearer]

Thanks for the compliment Richard, and thanks for dropping by.

I like your name suggestion, and think it would be well suited to a 4" bladed version of that knife, like a fixed version of Jack's outstanding, striated caramel coloured A. Wright Lambsfoot.



It should be fine, Alan. I usually apply some oil on handles of natural materials, as Bart advised, and let that sink in, then seal with a couple of layers of Ren Wax, buffing each after a minute, or so.

I like the smooth, cool texture of Ren Wax, but I don't tend to use it on my Ox-horn Lambsfoot, myself, preferring that natural, glassy feel which becomes grippy when wet, like micarta.

Thanks. I'll remember that ( I hope)

 

[Cambertree]

Thanks. I'll remember that ( I hope)

No worries, my friend.

I've seen the edges of stag turn green from reacting with brass. I always wondered if that was caused or accelerated by carry in leather due to moisture or something?

Possibly, but I wouldn't worry about it too much Alan. I would think the salts and moisture from your hand might have just as much an effect, as you use it over a long time. Alcohol (like methylated spirits) seems to clean that green oxide away ok, if you notice it forming.

It is one of the reasons I selected stainless steel pins for the Lambshank, rather than brass, though: long term durability.

A few people on the Porch have noted how knives in constant use seem to maintain better condition than if they are laid by for a while, as they're constantly being inspected and any corrosion or verdigris is caught and cleaned up early. This certainly seems to be true with carbon steel knives with brass fittings, in my limited experience.

 

[AShearer]

No worries, my friend.

Possibly, but I wouldn't worry about it too much Alan. I would think the salts and moisture from your hand might have just as much an effect, as you use it over a long time. Alcohol (like methylated spirits) seems to clean that green oxide away ok, if you notice it forming.

It is one of the reasons I selected stainless steel pins for the Lambshank, rather than brass, though: long term durability.

A few people on the Porch have noted how knives in constant use seem to maintain better condition than if they are laid by for a while, as they're constantly being inspected and any corrosion or verdigris is caught and cleaned up early. This certainly seems to be true with carbon steel knives with brass fittings, in my limited experience.

I'm sure that's true. I know I'm always cleaning and oiling my users more so than ones I don't pick up so often.

I did not know about alcohol cleaning off verdigris. I'll have to check that out. Stainless liners and pins would sure be a lot better. But, I guess brass is more "traditional"?

 

[WhittlinAway]

I must say, this is one of my absolute favorite threads. The combination of intelligent, inquisitive discourse, light-hearted fun, and fantastic show-and-tell makes it hard to beat. My sincere thanks go to everyone who contributes.