Guys is this kydex normal or not??

David Brown said:
p.s. you should come to some of our get together s :)
They are lots of fun and you could see a Busse or two :)
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I would be happy to man, sounds like a blast.. Id love to get a feel for some different Busses.
an right back at ya, we are always pullin out the smoker an smoking up ribs, doin some shootin, some Busse chopping, an you seem to fit the description :)
 
I have seen some rough kydex in the past that created that same effect. Very cool of you to give the maker a chance to make it right.

Garth
 
Garth Reckner said:
I have seen some rough kydex in the past that created that same effect. Very cool of you to give the maker a chance to make it right.

Garth
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I totally agree, I would never go bashing any company without giving them a chance to correct it. An I am not doing anything of the sort. I simply wanted some input from you guys as to what new kydex typically acts like... didn't know if this was totally normal. They have been contacted an according to the maker, if he were to make it less "tight" it would rattle in the sheath. He recommended blowing it out an using a little wd40...did it an it is much better now.. surprisingly
 
I'm curious to know how the mark is an arc. (Hey i made a rhyme ) wouldn't it be straight ? Unless it's the top of the sheath ? Or just the pic.

Edit. Ahh i I see now in the pic below . Fuller needs filler.
 
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HwangJino said:
Why I HATE kydex.

Had a few knives with kydex and they all scratched the blade.

I've ready you could slowly heat it in hot water and wiggle the knife while kydex is slightly gooey.
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Kydex has lots of advantages. Light weight, easy of multiple mounting positions, tight lock up with ease of draw(drawing the knife out fast without having to undo a snap.) and finally, cost. If it is done right it doesn't mess up a blade. LEather definitely can be better for keeping a satin blade pristine. And looks nice. Different strokes.
 
Well, I got her working good.. so all is well! next Kydex I try for my Ratmandu and Battle Grade Ash will be from Mr Brown..
 
I have made a couple for TGLB-Ms I tossed the first couple I made because of that.Put a cover over the fuller on the next one but did not like the hump in made. I fixed the problem I was having with the fuller by whittling some filler tabs for the fullers that filled them flush with the surface of the blade. That fixed the problem. Not sure really what can be done to fix the problem after the sheath has been molded.
 
Robdude said:
Well, I got her working good.. so all is well! next Kydex I try for my Ratmandu and Battle Grade Ash will be from Mr Brown..
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Now THAT is a desert camo pattern!!! :eek: --- :D

And you can't go wrong with kydex from Mr. Brown! :thumbup:
 
The one word answer to this problem is: LEATHER!!

I can't tell you how many times I have passed on a knife in the exchange because of the words "scratches on the blade from the sheath".
 
Why not lined Kydex, as it's the best of both worlds? Also, I have a Kydex sheath that can be taken apart. Smart design.
rolf
 
I remember some Knife maker on this forum saying for Satin-get leather-I will not mention his name, (Because I do not have his permission) but he makes a lot of really cool looking knives
 
I've had a lot of both Kydex and Leather, and either one will scratch your blade if something abrasive gets inside the sheath.
If you keep your sheaths clean they won't scratch you knife.
 
evltcat said:
I've had a lot of both Kydex and Leather, and either one will scratch your blade if something abrasive gets inside the sheath.
If you keep your sheaths clean they won't scratch you knife.
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f7FdEdG.jpg
 
It has never been clear to me why people think that hardened steel can be scratched by soft plastic.
 
I have and use both. I do prefer leather for some knives,mostly uncoated blades. I will have to say that if you get abrasive stuff in a leather sheath you are not going to get it out. With kydex you can wash the trash out even in the field. I guess both have their good and bad points. I have thought that if a hardened rubber could be molded into a sheath it may be the best of both. Don't know if that could be done. I am talking about the rubber type stuff they are using on some cell phone cases. Stiff like thermoplastic but has the grippy feel of rubber almost like a very thin rubber had been bonded to the kydex.
 
u812 said:
I have thought that if a hardened rubber could be molded into a sheath it may be the best of both. Don't know if that could be done. I am talking about the rubber type stuff they are using on some cell phone cases. Stiff like thermoplastic but has the grippy feel of rubber almost like a very thin rubber had been bonded to the kydex.
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Static Electricity would be a tough one on this or any plastic.

Rubber is even worse as it is soft and the dust or grit will get embedded even more so. :(

To be honest everyone, you may think that you keep your sheaths clean and they still "scratch".

Look for dust, it is after all small sand which is small rocks, if enough dust gets in your sheath and you shove your satin finish knife in there it will get marred.

I have made a clear sheath and will post a "Myth-buster" type video soon about all this "Kydex Scratching" business.
May surprise a few folks, stay tuned :)

Also I am glad you were able to fix your sheath Robdude.

Sorry to derail your post a little.
 
resinguy said:
It has never been clear to me why people think that hardened steel can be scratched by soft plastic.
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I do not know how it does it but I have scratched a blade with a kydex sheath. Nothing more than kydex dust inside. I would not figure soft plastic would be able to do it but it did. I have had it happen on a Swamp Rat and Bravo-1. Not bad scratches but ones you can see. Not had any from the sheath after it was cleaned up good. Those were when I first tried sheath making,leaned to make sure the sheath was completely clean before removing the tape after that. Is it possible that there are some hard media in the kydex that comes out in the dust?
 
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