Guys that have passed the ABS performance test, a question please?

Yes! Roman was cited in the thread. :) I believe someone else was as well. There was talk about how even using manual abrasives raised the temp very high at the very apex. These temps are only sustained for very brief moments.

I'm at dinner, but will look for the thread later.
 
A "worn" India stone has a much finer...almost polished surface, and will produce a fine, but still somewhat
toothy edge that will repeatably last longer in testing and in the field than a polished edge.I've been using the same 1 X 2 X 8"
stone since the mid 80s, even though i have several other types and sizes.
Any thoughts on what sort of belt (as in, 16 micron, etc) would be similar to that fine India, in terms of giving a toothy edge?
And do you polish a toothy edge, strop, rouge, or just leave it?
 
Elementfe.
I don't know what micron belt a worn fine India might equate to, only that it's
much smoother....almost polished.

220x is the finest belt I use due to greater potential for overheating the edge.

Sometimes, on a heavy edge, I'll use a newer Fine India to true up, then finish
with the worn stone.

I finish up with single strokes....front...back...repeatedly, till I'm satisfied with
the edge. I don't usually polish because I don't believe a polished edge (as impressive as
they are) will hold up as well for most uses.
 
A fairly new 15 micron will leave a very impressive edge.
I keep new and used 30, 15 and 9 Micron belts for various edge effects.
Run slow on a variable speed grinder.
Finish a knife with a new 9 micron, strop on a rouge covered leather strop and it'll make ya' believe in Jesus. :)


Any thoughts on what sort of belt (as in, 16 micron, etc) would be similar to that fine India, in terms of giving a toothy edge?
And do you polish a toothy edge, strop, rouge, or just leave it?
 
Ive been sharpening on dmt dia sharp stones lately. Im pretty impressed so far. A edge can easily shave arm hair and feather paper right off the coarse stone. Ive been taking it up to extra fine and the stropping and it will tree top hair no problem. I have a EEF stone on the way so Im exited to give it a try. Ive found that with the way I grind my edges I can set the bevel off the x-coarse stone with little work. No chance of overheating at all but then Ive never had an issue sharpening with belts either..I just like to free hand sharpen.
 
Just curious do any of you guys sharpen wet on your grinder? Ive seen it done but never tried it myself. when I sharpen on the grinder I run as slow as I can. Set my bevel with a sharp 220-320 grit belt then go to a good 800 grit belt, then strop...Or strop on a carboard wheel loaded with compound..
 
Since someone mentioned angles and we are mostly talking about convex edges, is there any reasonable way to 'measure' convex angles? I don't see how. You could know what angle you hold the blade to the belt or strop, but pressure and amount of slack in the belt would be hard to measure. Am I right?

(I've just started sharpening on a belt. I really like it, but after using a Sharpmaker and Edgepro previously I'm admittedly hung up on angles. So I'm trying to get the convex sharpening figured out.)
 
Holy monkeys, Roman's discussion makes me never want to use belts again...
I sharpen for the general public as a sideline, and thought I was doing a conscientious job! My people just love the edge I get on their knives, but this makes me think it could be sooo much betta.
Usual process is to renew the bevel on a 120 or so, then 65m, 16m, 5m, with a bit of strop work if needed, never sharpening on the platen, just light pressure and sharp belts just an inch or less above the platen...so it's slack belt, but not very slack.
The point comes back to this, though, and I don't think Roman really addressed it: In practical terms, what is the difference? If you're really losing 5Rc by using belts, that's pretty meaningful.
Looking forward to being able to give my customers an answer I'm confident in, when they ask if hand sharpening is better than machine.
 
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