H1 Steel not as rust proof as I was told.

Well, ya found a way to deposit rust on the outside of the H1 steel and frn but the h1 didnt rust. You should do it with a clean jar with no carbon steel to contaminate the test.

Looks like its still as rust proof as we were told:D:p
 
Well although most of us agree that it doesn't liik "rusted", it was still a worthwhile test if you have ever had multiple pieces of steel stored together.
 
The fact that it almost fully resisted the normal pitting you'd find on any other stainless in that corrosive of a situation says a lot about how resistant that steel is. Did the carbon steel part ever touch the H1? I've found that to be very damaging to all kinds of tough materials, as the more easily corroded one starts to oxidize, the electro-chemical reaction does a real number on whatever else is there to be the other electrode.
 
I did a really weird thing today. I put ice cubes in a kettle on the stove, and turned on the burner. When the ice cubes melted, I put my fingers in the water, and can now say ice is not as cold as I was told.
Just sayin'.

You must be a lot of fun at parties.
 
My son had an experience with H1 that shows real world performance in an actual legitimate use. He spent a summer working for a pool maintenance company. The first day on the job, after cutting open bags of pool chemicals, his S30V native was covered with rust spots (I think it was the chlorine tablets that did the damage, sodium hypochlorite is a strong oxidizer). When he showed me the knife, I ordered a Dragonfly Salt for him. He used it at work for the rest of the summer and did not get a single speck of corrosion. That convinced me of the super corrosion resistance of H1.
 
I remember years ago on the Spyderco forum, a guy said he got his Tasman Salt to rust just by leaving it in his boat, and had photos of it. When it was pointed out to him that the "rust" was actually a buildup of algae, the guy "disappeared" with no more mention of his knife. It almost seemed as if he wanted to be seen as special for getting H1 to "rust" (which he didn't). Not saying that OP here is doing that, but these types of threads seem to pop up now and then.

Jim
 
My son had an experience with H1 that shows real world performance in an actual legitimate use. He spent a summer working for a pool maintenance company. The first day on the job, after cutting open bags of pool chemicals, his S30V native was covered with rust spots (I think it was the chlorine tablets that did the damage, sodium hypochlorite is a strong oxidizer). When he showed me the knife, I ordered a Dragonfly Salt for him. He used it at work for the rest of the summer and did not get a single speck of corrosion. That convinced me of the super corrosion resistance of H1.
Nothing to add. Just wanted to say good thread !
 
My son had an experience with H1 that shows real world performance in an actual legitimate use. He spent a summer working for a pool maintenance company....That convinced me of the super corrosion resistance of H1.

I grew up in that business. Knives, clothing, tools, trucks, pretty much everything gets destroyed. Your story is a strong testament for H-1
 
Confused by the title. It seems to be MORE rust proof than I would expect. Months in salt water and zero corrosion? That seems incredible to me.
 
I think by this point we have pretty well established that H1 is more or less impervious to rust under any conditions that a user will ever find themselves. Can it rust? Yes...typically in environments that are at least as corrosive of the user as the knife!
 
Good test Vermin. Adding other steels into the mixture provides some good data as it introduces potential electrolysis between the dissimilar metals. A very valid concern with these steels. I've been doing this kind of testing for years and can offer a bit of the data I have accumulated.

First of all, H1 seems to be completely impervious to corrosion when exposed by itself to corrosive environments. In other words, place an H1 blank in a salty, corrosive environment and it is my belief based on years of testing that it will never corrode. Now, add in dissimilar metal...let's say a highly stainless hardware (say pins on a fixed blade). Given enough 24/7 exposure (it usually takes a month or two to become visible) the hardware will eventually show some corrosion and that will bleeed onto the H1 and look like surface rust. If you disassemble the knife and clean the rust from the stainless steel off and examine the H1 you will see that the H1 is unaffected, even when examining under magnification.

How does that compare to lc200n? Well, they are very similar actually. If you follow the first part of the experiment, you will find them to be virtually indistinguishable. An lc200n blank can be left in a salty environment almost indefinitely and not succumb to corrosion (at least that is what I've observed after a couple of years). Now, add in the dissimilar metal and you will see a slight difference between H1 and lc200n. The lc200n will show rust residue from the hardware just like the H1 but unlike H1 the lc200n is a little harder to wipe off and if you examine under magnification you will see some slight isolated pitting where the steel reacted to the dissimilar metal.

Anyway, I would say that the above is a clear demonstration that H1 is "more" corrosion resistant than lc200n but this data needs to be considered in context. First it should be noted that NEITHER of the steels shows any edge degradation due too corrosion, even after months and months of exposure. (I would like to hear if there was any change in the edge on that salt op, as that is a very telling piece of data in regards to how the actual steel is reacting). Secondly, it seems that this type of corrosion can be completely controlled by limiting the exposure of the steel to dissimilar metals. In other words, if you had two knives, one in H1 and one in lc200n, and both of them had g10 handles that snapped and glued together without any hardware (like the Waterway) then you would essentially eliminate the corrosion issue altogether. As an example of that, the Waterway in lc200n has had no rust issues compared to my Jumpmaster in H1. That's not about the steels though, its about the exposed hardware (or lack thereof). Last of all, we need to remember that we are talking about reactions to EXTREME environments. I'm sometimes reticent to talk about these differences because they require such a high level of exposure and neglect that they are almost wholly in the world of academic discussions. Both of these steels are light years ahead of ANYTHING else that any company is working with and though H1 might have an tiny edge on lc200n in owning the designation of 100% rust proof, both steels are so far ahead of any other "stainless" steel that they shouldn't even be considered in the same class or context.

I guess the point is that Spyderco is working with two outstanding rust proof steels. One has better edge performance than the other (in plain edge) and one has slightly more corrosion resistance when exposed to dissimilar metals. The corrosion resistance on both is so high that i would never use it as a deciding factor between the two, even in the harsh environments I use them in. The biggest difference between the two steels IMO is pe vs. se performance so I choose accordingly.
 
Good test Vermin. Adding other steels into the mixture provides some good data as it introduces potential electrolysis between the dissimilar metals. A very valid concern with these steels. I've been doing this kind of testing for years and can offer a bit of the data I have accumulated.

First of all, H1 seems to be completely impervious to corrosion when exposed by itself to corrosive environments. In other words, place an H1 blank in a salty, corrosive environment and it is my belief based on years of testing that it will never corrode. Now, add in dissimilar metal...let's say a highly stainless hardware (say pins on a fixed blade). Given enough 24/7 exposure (it usually takes a month or two to become visible) the hardware will eventually show some corrosion and that will bleeed onto the H1 and look like surface rust. If you disassemble the knife and clean the rust from the stainless steel off and examine the H1 you will see that the H1 is unaffected, even when examining under magnification.

How does that compare to lc200n? Well, they are very similar actually. If you follow the first part of the experiment, you will find them to be virtually indistinguishable. An lc200n blank can be left in a salty environment almost indefinitely and not succumb to corrosion (at least that is what I've observed after a couple of years). Now, add in the dissimilar metal and you will see a slight difference between H1 and lc200n. The lc200n will show rust residue from the hardware just like the H1 but unlike H1 the lc200n is a little harder to wipe off and if you examine under magnification you will see some slight isolated pitting where the steel reacted to the dissimilar metal.

Anyway, I would say that the above is a clear demonstration that H1 is "more" corrosion resistant than lc200n but this data needs to be considered in context. First it should be noted that NEITHER of the steels shows any edge degradation due too corrosion, even after months and months of exposure. (I would like to hear if there was any change in the edge on that salt op, as that is a very telling piece of data in regards to how the actual steel is reacting). Secondly, it seems that this type of corrosion can be completely controlled by limiting the exposure of the steel to dissimilar metals. In other words, if you had two knives, one in H1 and one in lc200n, and both of them had g10 handles that snapped and glued together without any hardware (like the Waterway) then you would essentially eliminate the corrosion issue altogether. As an example of that, the Waterway in lc200n has had no rust issues compared to my Jumpmaster in H1. That's not about the steels though, its about the exposed hardware (or lack thereof). Last of all, we need to remember that we are talking about reactions to EXTREME environments. I'm sometimes reticent to talk about these differences because they require such a high level of exposure and neglect that they are almost wholly in the world of academic discussions. Both of these steels are light years ahead of ANYTHING else that any company is working with and though H1 might have an tiny edge on lc200n in owning the designation of 100% rust proof, both steels are so far ahead of any other "stainless" steel that they shouldn't even be considered in the same class or context.

I guess the point is that Spyderco is working with two outstanding rust proof steels. One has better edge performance than the other (in plain edge) and one has slightly more corrosion resistance when exposed to dissimilar metals. The corrosion resistance on both is so high that i would never use it as a deciding factor between the two, even in the harsh environments I use them in. The biggest difference between the two steels IMO is pe vs. se performance so I choose accordingly.

Speaking of the Waterway, are we ever going to see it released? lol
 
I think a bath with some water mixed with citric acid and it will look like new again.
 
introduces potential electrolysis between the dissimilar metals. A very valid concern with these steels.


The lc200n will show rust residue from the hardware just like the H1 but unlike H1 the lc200n is a little harder to wipe off and if you examine under magnification you will see some slight isolated pitting where the steel reacted to the dissimilar metal.


There was a thread about a Mule LC200N doing just that.
Halpern scales and hardware
 
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