Hammer thread

scrteened porch said:
I still think a hammer-polled half hatchet like the plumb victory pictured is a good woods hatchet. With a wooden handle the balance is better than with the admittedly tougher steel handle.
Oh, and that's the prettiest breast drill I've seen, pictured with it- 3 jaws, two speeds, and every tooth in place.

kwCzl81U
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Now that IS a nice one! The nice thing about 3-jaw breast drills is you can use them on metal in placed where you can't move the workpiece or a cord won't reach.
 
garry3 said:
Well with your experience at such a young age you should not not let an old guy bs you. Like I said I have never been better than average pounding nails. But you did not address the points I made about titainium being half worn out when you bought it or the fact that it does not last as long or that you spend twice as much for it.
I have tried it on several occasions. Nothing gained. A big light head. But you could look like a real framer swinging it.
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Greetings Gents,

I've spent the last hour or so going through about 90% of this 'hammer thread' gleaning whats perceived to be the important technical arguments here regarding hardened tool steel versus titanium along with optimum weights and distribution of same.. In addition, there seems to be some disbelief permeating the discussion regarding the everyday talents of average and better than average carpenters in modern contemporary times as well as yesteryear.. I started as a, commercial building form carpenter in 1976 and then have done pretty much everything from one end of the field to the other utilizing every conceivable type of hand and power tool their is.. Now, not that I have done it all, far from it, but suffice it to say I have been around the block with many types of hammers over the last 36+ years..

The term 'Drop Nailing' (setting and driving home 12-16 penny nails in 2-3 swings) is quite common among season professionals and that is just a fact.. And this is the point I'd like to make, that is, I believe its much more to do with the carpenter that is operating the hammer, than it has to do with the type of tool (hammer) used for the task!. Personally, I am about of average skill on my 32 ounce Estwing framing hammer and can drop nail a 16 penny common nail in 3 total swings. I can get her in 2 swings on occasion, but 3 swings is typical for me when I intend to.. Its all about CONTROL!. This technique is just about manipulating the hammer's weight distribution, while at the same time focusing the force of the hammerhead by utilizing the proper amount of energy in the swing.. After that, its just pretty simple, like my old grandpa used to say, "practice makes perfect, boy, practice makes perfect."
 
Ah--gotcha'. Most of the ones I've seen in my area had fairly large chucks that were too mashed for a good hold on a round bit. Or if the chuck was good the handle was broken. Or the gears worn and pitted with rust. :(
 
sunnyd said:
Greetings Gents,

I've spent the last hour or so going through about 90% of this 'hammer thread' gleaning whats perceived to be the important technical arguments here regarding hardened tool steel versus titanium along with optimum weights and distribution of same.. In addition, there seems to be some disbelief permeating the discussion regarding the everyday talents of average and better than average carpenters in modern contemporary times as well as yesteryear.. I started as a, commercial building form carpenter in 1976 and then have done pretty much everything from one end of the field to the other utilizing every conceivable type of hand and power tool their is.. Now, not that I have done it all, far from it, but suffice it to say I have been around the block with many types of hammers over the last 36+ years..

The term 'Drop Nailing' (setting and driving home 12-16 penny nails in 2-3 swings) is quite common among season professionals and that is just a fact.. And this is the point I'd like to make, that is, I believe its much more to do with the carpenter that is operating the hammer, than it has to do with the type of tool (hammer) used for the task!. Personally, I am about of average skill on my 32 ounce Estwing framing hammer and can drop nail a 16 penny common nail in 3 total swings. I can get her in 2 swings on occasion, but 3 swings is typical for me when I intend to.. Its all about CONTROL!. This technique is just about manipulating the hammer's weight distribution, while at the same time focusing the force of the hammerhead by utilizing the proper amount of energy in the swing.. After that, its just pretty simple, like my old grandpa used to say, "practice makes perfect, boy, practice makes perfect."
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Nice post Sir.
 
Might want to edit that, as it's probably technically considered as selling without appropriate membership level, though I appreciate the thought. I think I'll pass, though it's inexpensive, just because it gives me something to keep digging for while I'm out pickin' for tools. I don't need one desperately. But I do want one. It's the thrill of the chase, ya' know? :D
 
The 1960'a seem to have been a turning point in American tool manufacture. Into the 60's companies were still interested in making the best tool they could, thinking that the best tool would win sales and therefore be the most profitable.

Somewhere along the way making the cheapest tool and gaining short term profits supplanted the old way for most companies. Few survived using this new strategy.
 
Replying to saxon on the japanese carpentry hammer - duck hammer. I was a framing subcontractor for six years, and ended up using a 14oz japanese framing hammer. It is as light as the Ruger Stiletto I used to swing, less bulky, and it can really drive nails. A lighter hammer is critical if you are a serious framer - the heavy clubs are pretty much useless up inside joists, nailing upward (joist hangers, yes I use a hanger gun but it cannot get every hole). I also own the heavier, wood handle japanese duck, it is ok for nailing walls that are laying down or he avy work. It also draws a 16d out so straight that it is almost always re-usable, in the pouch means not on the ground. I would never trade my titanium catspaw for a steel, occidental bags are heavy enough as it is. The other truly great framing hammer in my mind is the Douglas. Do not know the name they are sold under now, but the side-puller for nails, integral strap-reinforced wood handle, and nail-starter made it top of the line. Lost both my Ruger 14oz (original run) and two Douglas hammers plus a nice fiberglass Vaughn running crews. Own more hammers than I can recall, but a few stand out as strange. An old Craftsman Steel handle with a wood plug where the eye would be is interesting to me - early attempt at a shock absorber. My true favorites are not carpentry hammers but smith tools - just picked up a six pound side-hammer pattern with a short handle and three antique ballpeens.

On the subject of trick nail driving, the guy I worked for almost 13 years ago could drive a nail in three hits with the claw of the hammer - it is a way to improve and test your skills. I think he was swinging a straight-handle deathstick, the claw ends are pretty blunt, but it was still impressive.
 
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Although I make and use nails extensively, I feel the need to defend screws as relates to coded construction. Not all screws are created equal. Top end screws do not just snap like the cheap ones, and there are many types that carry the ratings to be used in place of nails. Try to snap or even tear out a half-embedded top end Torx screw. Not going to happen, they do not break any easier than a nail. Barring a specific city code enforcing nail use, rated screws can be used in place of nails. The line between screws and lag-bolts is become more and more blurred as well, with spax making fasteners that drive better than lags and have equal size and greater strength.
 
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