Hammering technique?

So while browsing the Princes Auto site I came across a 75# cast steel anvil, for what I consider a reasonable price. Now I am a little confused about the whole cast steel, cast iron thing for anvils what is the better anvil material of the two? I can easlily bring the total weight of this anvil up to 120-150# with base, using 12345678910 20X hammer wieght formula that should cover anything I am willing to swing at a hot peice of steel with room to spare
 
Those cheap smaller cast anvils are typically referred to as ASO's, or "anvil-shaped-objects." They typically won't hold up to much use, and are too soft.

--nathan
 
Actually, many of the cast steel anvils make a good entry level anvil. Cast iron anvils are not much for forging. When getting started, any sort of anvil will work. The main thing is to work the steel hot enough, and quit hammering when the steel gets dull red. Never hammer on dark steel.
Stacy
 
I tried the ball bearing bounce test on a couple ASOs at stores around here. The "best" was a 55# import at Wholesale Tool, but that one would only bounce the bearing about 25% of the drop height (10"). In comparison, the jaw of a 6" machinist vice sitting nearby returned almost 75% of the energy to the bearing, and the granite surface plate returned a bit more.
 
silver_pilate said:
Those cheap smaller cast anvils are typically referred to as ASO's, or "anvil-shaped-objects." They typically won't hold up to much use, and are too soft.

--nathan
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But the question is, is a 75 pound cast steel anvel better then a chunk of railroad rail? I know niether are ideal, but what would be better? The measurements on the 75 pounder are 15-1/4"l x 7"w x 6-3/4"h, I am heading over to Princes Auto today after work to pick up the crosspein hammer mentioned by 12345678910, they are actually on sale so without using my conections they are dirt cheap.

Bladsmth cleared up the cast iron cast steel thing with his post, but what this ball bearing test?and would a 1/4" bearing do the trick?
 
Take a ball bearing - The bigger the better, 25mm is the standard for testing anvils, but use what you have - and hold it 300cm above the anvil face. Drop it and see how high it bounces back. A first class anvil will make a sharp ring,and have a 80% or better rebound. A cast iron anvil will make a thud and barely bounce the bearing 25%. Anything above 50% will work, 75% is good. If you are trying to compare anvils, use a meter stick to measure the rebound.
Stacy
 
bladsmth said:
Take a ball bearing - The bigger the better, 25mm is the standard for testing anvils, but use what you have - and hold it 300cm above the anvil face. Drop it and see how high it bounces back. A first class anvil will make a sharp ring,and have a 80% or better rebound. A cast iron anvil will make a thud and barely bounce the bearing 25%. Anything above 50% will work, 75% is good. If you are trying to compare anvils, use a meter stick to measure the rebound.
Stacy
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Stacy

You're gettin mixed up on the metric conversions
- also: I'm going to argue some semantics and bust your balls :rolleyes:

Ball Bearing - NO
A ball bearing is comprised of an inner race, an outer race and several balls.
images


25mm or 1 inch diameter steel ball - ok
images


Drop it from a foot (12 inches) above the anvil face
30 cm = 12 inches-Ok
300 mm = 12 inches-OK

300cm = 10 feet-NO
 
300cm = 10 feet-NO
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Ah come on I was looking forward to getting a ladder out at princess Auto to drop a bearing on a 15X7 inch target and trying to get to the bottom again to measure the bounce:D

I was at P Auto today and bought the 28 and the 35 oz cross pein hammers for the grand total of 10.08 after taxes they didn't have any of the 75lbs anvils in the store so I had to put the ladder back :( One of my friends that works there is going to let me know when they go on sale so I can grab one.

I dressed up the faces on the hammers too, they were almost sharp enough to push cut paper, but you get what you pay for.
 
unky_gumbi said:
But the question is, is a 75 pound cast steel anvel better then a chunk of railroad rail? I know niether are ideal, but what would be better? The measurements on the 75 pounder are 15-1/4"l x 7"w x 6-3/4"h, I am heading over to Princes Auto today after work to pick up the crosspein hammer mentioned by 12345678910, they are actually on sale so without using my conections they are dirt cheap.

Bladsmth cleared up the cast iron cast steel thing with his post, but what this ball bearing test?and would a 1/4" bearing do the trick?
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If you have a scrap yard nearby call and ask them if they have a 4"x4" - 6"x6" square stock cutoff, even a round cutoff of 5" - 6" diameter would work 8, 10, 12" or longer.

I do most of my forging with P Auto hammers that I have dressed and or modified to suit my needs. I like the 3# and 4# 'club' hammers I take an angle grinder and cut the face to make an angle peen hammer. I've never had any problems with them being too soft. Check out this thread I started: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=654380&highlight=angle+peen+hammer

However, I bought a couple of 3# sledge hammers from Bianca's (whatever it's called cheap chinese products store) and one of them will bash the hell out of the other, really weird, one soft, one hard. I have marked the soft one and will reserve it for special duties where a softer hammer is required.
 
Yes, My fingers were moving too fast. Of course I meant 300mm, not 300cm.
And yes, technically bearing balls are the individual steel ball components ,and ball bearings are the assembled ball and race units. The term "ball bearing" has become accepted use for a steel ball, although it is not the correct term.
There is a difference between bearing balls and steel balls. Steel balls (AKA steel shot) can be any round steel object. Bearing balls, are of a much higher degree of sphericity, surface finish, and tolerance.

Now - Even though we sew them together, we still call it a pair of pants.

Stacy
 
Well I have made full commitment to forging something this year, I am well into making a propane forge, have all the parts just need to do a little welding and get the propane tank filled. so hopefully I will have the first firing sometime later in the week.

I have also found my next tool prodject to do, a tire hammer. So far I have not been very good at the "$50 knife shop" as I figure the forge will end up costing me $250 including fuel, Not sure how much the tire hammer will cost, but I am sure it will be a bit more then the forge, and I still have to make a NWG.
Its a good thing that I have my bike lust covered, because this homemade tool lust I have going on is almost as expensive:D

When I get the forge done and fired up I will post a pic or short vid. I said hope to have it fired by the end of the week, but as everyone knows sometimes projects run past the deadline.
 
Their is a guy with a place called Henery street blacksmits or maybe it is forge, down by the railway (CPR). He will sell you some tongs. He also has some nice anvils but he would not part with any of them when I was their, he might have some steel for a anvil, great guy to talk to anyways.
You could buy a piece of steel at metal supermarket for a anvil.
I would not buy the princess auto anvil they wil not provide satisfaction.
I can give you a guys # who will sell you a bag of hammers for chump change, some might need a new handle though, those you can get at princee auto.
Cheers Ron.
 
I bought a couple of cross pien hammers at P Auto already, for chump change, a 28oz and a 35oz for 10.08 after taxes. It helps knowing people that work there. I was thinking of just grabbing some re-bar to practice with and get the feel of swinging the hammer. I think I may be able to make a working set of tongs while I am at it. If not oh well, I will just have to buy some.
What are you using for a forge, I havwe come up with a hybred of the Indian George and a couple of others I can't remember the names of, it all on my laptop not this PC. the pipe I got is 18"long and I.D of 10.25". I went to Sounding Stone and picked up some soft fire bricks to use as a front door like the IG forge and some 1" ceramic wool to line the pipe with as wall as the refractory mortor to coat the wool with. With luck I should have the first firing later this week just have to figure out what to use as a blower, right now I am thinking an old blow drier. I am $160 into it right now and still need s couple of small things to finish the burner, unless the guy who is doing the welding for me got them already and to fill my propane tank up.
 
I built this one:
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/oliverburner1.html
Got the regulator and hose from a propane place on St James St.
I bought insulation and cement from here.
http://www.alsips.com/
Does not matter as long as you get the job done.

Built a 20 lb propanr tank forgre. I have a old family anvil, not bad but not really sharp edges, but it works.
Watch the rebar is not zink coated, and it will be fine for practice.
I use 01 drill rod from fastenall, or some w1 from lukes.
Cheers Ron.
 
Will Leavitt said:
What is $250 Canadian? I don't have $50 USD in my blown gas forge....
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$40 for the pipe from a scrap yard, $49 for 7 soft fire bricks (bought extras just incase)$50 for ceramic wool and the mortor $20 misc partsso far, think it was $40 last time I fill my tank and I am throwing an extra $50 because I always go over budget and I should give the guy who is welding things up for me a case of beer atleast. Wish I could have built it for $50, but I had no parts laying around and I am hoping an old hair drier will work for a blower or the old vacum I have if the blow drier doesn't work. You wil have to share you $50 secretwith us:p
 
Let us know how that anvil relay is from princess auto. The horn look's horrible in the pictures however.

I built a venturi forge, I would recommend more than 2" of insulation though. The total cost for me was in the 250 range with regulator ect ect ect ect. My next forge is probably going to be a blown waste oil forge, probably something with cast refractory and 'random' pattern welding in mind. I also built a rusty style hammer entirely out of scrap steel that I had around work or home... it works well but it needs to be bolted to concrete for sure.
 
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john0270 said:
Let us know how that anvil relay is from princess auto. The horn look's horrible in the pictures however.
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I went and looked at the PA Anvil today its cast iron not cast steel :grumpy:, it has about as much rebound as my front lawn when its not covered in snow;)

Steve
 
BritishBD said:
I went and looked at the PA Anvil today its cast iron not cast steel :grumpy:, it has about as much rebound as my front lawn when its not covered in snow;)

Steve
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Was it the 130 dollar one? they offer a few, 2 cast iron one cast steel. I havent actually looked at it yet so I have no real oppinion of it yet.
 
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unky_gumbi said:
Was it the 130 dollar one? they offer a few, 2 cast iron one cast steel. I havent actually looked at it yet so I have no real oppinion of it yet.
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Yes it was the 75 lbs cast steel one they list on there website the sku #s match
If I could of gotten any rebound out of it I would of picked one up for the price

Steve
 
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