Hammering the eye for a tomahawk.

K

Kenny H.

Joined
May 24, 2009
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Hey guys, I recently got a make shift forge setup, I made a quick little knife out of a railroad spike, but the main reason I setup a forge was to make tomahawks, I lovvve me some tomahawks. So I spent about 2 hours hammering out the profile of the blade, then I took a completely metal, round handled chisel, I placed it as center as I could and started hammering, it went in straight for the first half of the way but then it just went bad, now I have a huge bulge on the right side of the steel and in hammering the chisel all the way through, I nearly split the steel in two pieces. Not only that but I completely flattened the end of my chisel in the process(eh?)

If you need pictures for clarification, I can get em, but does anyone have any tips for hammering a perfectly straight eye? Also any ideas on a quality brand of chisels to use for doing this?
 
You'd be better off drilling a slit instead of trying to punch and eye. Even with a hot cutter there's a real good chance of getting off center. After the slit is made then you need to use a tomahawk drift to shape the eye. Here's an old picture that might give you an idea on how its done. Sorry for the small size of the photo. That's a tomahawk drift on the right. Pretty sure Kayne & Son's carries the drifts.

PDRM0786.JPG


Here's the forging sequence I use: http://www.hawknknives.com/forging/_forging.shtml
 
Yeah I still need to pickup a drift from blacksmith depot, but I wanted to start the hole so when I get the drift I could finish it.

I have a drill press, I just need a nice carbide drill bit to do that?
 
Check out Steve Lileys (Coal creek forge) utube tutorials, the link is on the hawk forum.

Regards

Robin
 
No need for a carbide bit most likely. Just set your drill press for the slowest speed it can go and use a drilling/tapping lube while you cut.

-d
 
Pipeman said:
Check out Steve Lileys (Coal creek forge) utube tutorials, the link is on the hawk forum.

Regards

Robin
Click to expand...

Steves videos are what convinced me to do this actually, I've already watched all of them. I thought he used a chisel to make the hole in his video where he actually makes the hawk, but he must have already milled out the slot before hand.

I went down and gave it a shot and got a nice line of holes, I'll use a dremel to mill it out tomorrow, I'll have to wait to get a tomahawk drift though.

30$ for a big chunk of steel still seems a little pricey to me...

EDIT Another thing I'd like to know is if anyone can point me to a good place to buy carbon steel square stock like 1080 or something?
 
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Kenny H. said:
Steves videos are what convinced me to do this actually, I've already watched all of them. I thought he used a chisel to make the hole in his video where he actually makes the hawk, but he must have already milled out the slot before hand.

I went down and gave it a shot and got a nice line of holes, I'll use a dremel to mill it out tomorrow, I'll have to wait to get a tomahawk drift though.

30$ for a big chunk of steel still seems a little pricey to me...

EDIT Another thing I'd like to know is if anyone can point me to a good place to buy carbon steel square stock like 1080 or something?
Click to expand...

The tomahawk drift is made from ductile iron. If 30 bucks seems like a bunch try making one.

Here's a couple photo's of me making an eye for a different style ax. I use pretty much the same thing for a hawk except the slot is narrower.

IMG_1733.JPG


IMG_1734.JPG


Here's the only place I know of that sells 1080 in square stock. Only problem is you may have to buy a 25 foot bar. If you think the drift is expensive be ready for another shock.

http://www.pmtsco.com/
 
he used a slit punch. its chiselesqe but much slimmer and about 1 1/4 long. it slits a hole rather than moving a lot of metal. i made one out of a piece of railroad strap but you can buy them also
 
Raymond Richard said:
The tomahawk drift is made from ductile iron. If 30 bucks seems like a bunch try making one.

Here's a couple photo's of me making an eye for a different style ax. I use pretty much the same thing for a hawk except the slot is narrower.



Here's the only place I know of that sells 1080 in square stock. Only problem is you may have to buy a 25 foot bar. If you think the drift is expensive be ready for another shock.

http://www.pmtsco.com/
Click to expand...

Well I can just drill a series of holes in a straight line and then hammer a chisel through those and that will yield the same results correct?
 
Kenny H. said:
Well I can just drill a series of holes in a straight line and then hammer a chisel through those and that will yield the same results correct?
Click to expand...
It all depends on what your after. I've done what you suggested and I was not pleased with the results. If your making just for yourself it will do.
 
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Raymond Richard said:
It all depends on what your after. I've done what you suggested and I was not pleased with the results. If you making just for yourself it will do.
Click to expand...

Well what displeased you about it? This is what I'm trying to achieve and it was done by milling out a small slot and them putting the drift through it.

102_0096.jpg


I mean is it really going to make a significant difference if I completely mill out the small slot, then hammer the drift through?

What kind of bit do I need to completely mill out the slot?
 
I'm not using a mill. I'm just using a carbide burr to clean out the web. If I'm going to use a tomahawk drift I'll make the slit narrower like in the first photo I posted. You've got to gradually open up the slit with a smaller drift before you use the hawk drift.
 
Raymond Richard said:
I'm not using a mill. I'm just using a carbide burr to clean out the web. If I'm going to use a tomahawk drift I'll make the slit narrower like in the first photo I posted. You've got to gradually open up the slit with a smaller drift before you use the hawk drift.
Click to expand...

That's actually why I was using the chisel, just to open it up the the width of the end of the drift.

I'll pickup a bit to clear out the web when I get the money for the drift then, I'll use a punch instead of a chisel though, that'll be a better way to open it up.
 
Kenny. It may just be the way I am reading your posts, but you asked a question....and received an answer from one of the best around....and then seem to be arguing with Raymond. Perhaps you are just young and don't know better. but the normal way of asking questions and receiving expert advise usually ends with, "Thank You."


As for economy hawks, and not having to slit the drift hole - Just use a small ball pein hammer head for the blank. Draw the ball out into a spike and spread the round hammer head into the blade. You still need to drift the hole to shape, but the hard work is already done. I do this for demos.

If using RR spikes, have a friend with a mill ,mill out 1/8X3/4" slits two inches back from the head. Give him about a dozen to do and then you have some hawk blanks to work with.

As far as doing it blacksmith style, here is the entire procedure:
http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor/spikeaxe/top_index.htm

This site should give you plenty to do until the drift comes.
http://www.lametalsmiths.org/news/index.htm

Take care,
Stacy
 
For 1080 square bar try Aldo Bruno the NJ Steel Baron. His direct line is 201-637-1413
Tell him Mace sent ya!;)
Mace
 
What Stacy Said!

Now that that is out of the way. The reason that you don't leave the remainders of the web in the slot is that,
1. the hawk drift is ductile iron and even though the "hawk" head is red/orange hot they will mark up the drift.
2. after you open up the eye of the hawk you then have to file out these little peaks or have a really ugly looking series of divots around the handle, if you do file them out now the eye is quite a bit larger than what you thought so the handle that you bought won't fit. if you try to forge the little divits out you really stretch the eye and f&^%k up everything including that 30 dollar drift that you are whining about buying.
 
I apologize, I'm simply trying to make sure I get all the information I can so I don't screw up so badly again.

Of course, thanks for everything.
 
What about doing it by folding a piece of iron/mild steel around a madrell, then welding in a tool steel edge?
 
john0270 said:
What about doing it by folding a piece of iron/mild steel around a madrell, then welding in a tool steel edge?
Click to expand...

this is actually a good way to do it if you don't want a spike or pipe or a pole of any kind. although the welding temp for mild steel is a good deal hotter than it is for carbon steel.
 
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