Hand drill (video)

abo4ster

abo4ster

Joined
Aug 24, 2003
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Doc has a great thread on the hand drill going here.

He has some great tips below. To compliment, I made a quick video today (I'm a one take wonder). Even surprised myself how quick the coal came as it is a bit windy out.

DOC-CANADA said:
Another tip, in case you don't already know, a straight stalk is necessary, so if it's a bit crooked, with a bit of heat, you can straighten it. Before somebody says that you won't have the heat until you start the fire, I'm talking about practise.

Couple of other things -
-when using Teasel, cut the notch in just past where the periphery of the stalk meets the hearth - this is where the char forms - more inboard is a softer part of the stalk that rubs away without contributing.

-the thicker (the hard part of) of the drill wall, the better the drill.

-the harder the hearth material, the smaller the diameter of the drill and conversely, the softer the hearth, the larger the diameter, keeping in mind the diameter must be large enough to spin the drill.

-if and when the drill starts to 'socket', stop and 'dish' out the hearth (so that the drill contacts on the bottom only, not also on the sides - this dissipates a given amount of friction over a greater area, reducing the temperature, not to mention causing more drag and contributing to muscle fatigue.

-when a hump starts to form in the middle of the hearth depression, remove it. This is counterproductive in the same way 'socketing' is.

-to gain the proper traction between the drill and your hands, spit on your hands - you want them damp, but not soaking wet. You'll see what I mean when you do it.

Well, that's a few tips, anyway. If you have any questions give me a shout. BTW, like bow drill (in my area), Basswood (T. americana) and Poplar (Populus spp.) are my favoured hearth materials for hand drill.

Doc
Click to expand...

Adding to Doc's tips...
- Use all the resources out there, many different tips/tricks, species, etc. They are all going to be helpful as everyone is different.
- Premise of the hand drill is the same as the bow drill, however, many think a little larger notch is helpful. Be consistent with the bow drill before tackling the hand drill. If for nothing else, confidence.
- Quit and give your hands two or three days of rest if you think a hot spot is becoming a blister. You will be sore at first, but the muscles in your hands will develop quickly and heal quicker than the blister.
- Having a straight spindle is critical when starting out. If using mullein, that straight part maybe under the seedhead too. Simply scrape it until it is smooth.
- While 'floating' your hands looks cool, it is not necessary.
- Use your entire hands!
- Common sense says it is easier to have the thinner part of spindle at top for more downward pressure which is true. However, mullein and other spindles can fray easily, so don't hesitate flipping it over ~ there is not that much difference.
- here are ID links to the species used in the video (note the maps):
http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=VETH
http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=JUVI

 
Magnussen said:
Excellent video, bro......... you make it look too easy!

Rick
Click to expand...

Thanks Rick!

What can I say, I am built like a fire plug. I got enough down force, I probably don't need to spin the drill! ;)

In good weather, I can get a coal in less than 20 seconds ~ I've paid my dues to the fire gods in blood and blisters. Damn that tree sparkleberry!
 
Man dude, you made that look seriously simple.

Do you recommend drying the Red Cedar out before we attempt it, or can we just cut it and go?
 
That was wonderful! You did make it look like a piece of cake... :)

I can't wait to try it. There is plenty of Teasel and Mullein around here.

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
This looks awesome... (the sound drivers on my computer are out) I'll check it out when I get to work tomorrow. Thanks for posting man.
 
Great video, Quiet Bear.

You mention 2 ways of positioning your body - sitting down or kneeling on one knee. I kneel on both knees (helps me to get a longer run on the spindle). I also use a helper board (a board under my left knee securing the hearth in place).

When cutting raw drills, I measure them to reach from my navel to the ground. The upper part of the drill (Teasel) is thinner, so harder to apply pressure, but it works to help keep the board warm after switching your hands back up. Sometimes when starting back at the top, I speed up the spinning for a few oscillations, to help bring the heat back up.

Personally, I don't like Mullein (Verbascum thapsus) but I know a lot of people do.

Sometimes, the 'bark' on a spindle will loosen from the spindle and knock your char pile all to heck, so scrape the 'bark' or outer skin off of the spindle. This is especially important with more fibrous spindles.

I don't use my whole hand, but rather the sides of the palms. I find that I have better control when I don't go out on my fingers.

Quit and give your hands two or three days of rest if you think a hot spot is becoming a blister. You will be sore at first, but the muscles in your hands will develop quickly and heal quicker than the blister.
Click to expand...
Very good advice. I haven't done hand drill for awhile, so my hands have softened up. I did 3 coals on Monday, 2 yesterday and my hands are feeling it. I really should lay off tonight, I really should............. :(

Anyway, once again, great video, QB. That should get a few people off their butts. :D

Doc
 
Great advice Doc!

As suggested get all the info you can, experiment and find what works for you.
 
Quiet Bear said:
Great advice Doc!
Click to expand...

Too bad I don't listen to it :o -

This is what I mean when I say scrape the sides of the drill. The piece sticking out is part of the 'skin'. This can whip around and wipe out your hard-earned char pile.

b2.jpg


This is what I mean by a helper board. My left knee rests on the helper board (usually with the aid of an age mitigating foam pad :rolleyes:) )

b3.jpg





Oh, yes, and this is the coal I should have passed on tonight (luckily my hands are none the worse for wear, but I should stop now.......... :( )

b1.jpg


Doc
 
One take is all you needed - that was perfect.

Thanks to both you AND Doc.

I watched some of the other videos:

"Leave my tinder bundle alone Scout!" I loved that!

TF
 
Finally got to watch it with sound... That's Great!! Very nice.. That's high on my "got to learn list" Look out sounds like you got the Hound of the Baskervilles raming in the woods by you LOL
 
Fantastic video, QB. I appreciate the learning opportunity you gave me! Now I need to get out from behind the computer and try it.
 
Mullein is what I learned with, so it is what I use almost exclusively. I have done native sunflower and horseweed consistently too. Mulefat (seep willow) is what I use when I go out in the western U.S. ~ it is very easy to use.

Here is a short list I of what is supposed to work from sources I trust:

Cattail
Yucca
Goldenrod
Dogbane
Buckeye
Elderberry
Fireweed
Willow

There are many, many more, hopefully Doc and others will add to the list. When it comes to the tree species, look for survival shoots as they will be the straightest. Boxelder is high on my list of a species I want to try as a spindle, would be curious to know if anyone else has tried it.
 
These are the combos I have used:

Teasel (Dipsacus sylvestris) drill on Black Willow (Salix nigra?)
Teasel on Northern White Cedar (Thuja occidentalis)
Teasel on Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina)
Teasel on Eastern Cottonwood (Populus deltoides)
Teasel on Basswood (Tilia americana)

Burdock (Arctium lappa) on Black Willow) not a very good combo - coal formed on the end of the drill

Great Ragweed (Ambrosia trifida) [some years good, others not] on Black Willow.
Great Ragweed on Staghorn Sumac
Great Ragweed on Northern White Cedar

Common Mullein (Verbascum thapsus) on Black Willow

Sweet Clover (Melilotus spp.) on Black Willow
Sweet Clover on Northern White Cedar

Staghorn Sumac on Black Willow

Bull Thistle (Cirsium vulgare) on Black Willow [Bull Thistle makes an excellent hand drill]
Bull Thistle on Eastern Cottonwood

Black Willow (spliced tip) on Black Willow
Black Willow on Northern White Cedar

Northern White Cedar on Northern White Cedar

Dogwood (probably Cornus stolonifera) [spliced tip] on Black Willow

Eastern Cottonwood on Eastern Cottonwood
Eastern Cottonwood on Black Willow
Eastern Cottonwood on Northern White Cedar

Jerusalem Artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus) FAVOURITE HAND DRILL MATERIAL on Black Willow
Jerusalem Artichoke on Northern White Cedar

Canada Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) on Black Willow

Basswood on Basswood

Cattail (Typha latifolia) on Eastern Cottonwood

----------------------------------------------------

Doc
 
Last edited:
Hey Quiet Bear,

I have used Boxelder AKA Manitoba Maple (Acer negundo) for bow drill, successfully, but have never tried it for hand drill.

Doc
 
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