Hand sanding - i've broken my spirit

DustinY

DustinY

Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Messages
754
Hey guys, today i went back to cracking on this blade, sanded up to 800, then dropped to 600 for finishing passes. I can't figure it out, its soooo hard. I'm desperately looking for help, because it looks good but then when inspects i can find issues. I can't seem to figure out how to best hold the block (i'm using a 2x4 in aluminum block) to net the best results. Pull pattern looks off or like it's varying ( i might have changed the blade orientation, resulting in two pull patterns on one side ) but i keep making mistakes and can't seem to evenly finish them out. I know people use leather backed sticks - honestly looks like i'm going to have to make some sticks. I've asked my buddy for a quote for two hardened machined flat sticks so i can use one for sanding then put some leather on the other - any other options, tips, or tricks? ALL thee scratches that i can't get out are being produced in my final pass strokes - i've gotten all previous grits out, i just can't seem to get an even finish all around (again, it LOOKS good, but inspected i'm having some wavy pull issues & can't seem to figure out how to best address final passes).

Where would i source a good piece of leather to smack on the steel sanding stick i'm going to make?

Reference - you can see at the choil it has scratches going in a directions i don't even VAGUELY remember pulling with 600 grit.

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For finishing I like a medium rubber backing.

I bought some 75 durometer rubber from a silk screening company and use that for the final stuff.

for the finish strokes make sure you’re going the full length AND width of the blade. I’ve found that if I try to work in section I get j hooks and stray scratches.

I would also recommend checking out Nick Wheelers YouTube videos.
 
I use wd40 with the final gritsize. Also the last piece of paper use it longer them normal, it leaves a softer finish
 
I use 0.04 rubber on a piece of scrap micarta. I feel for you man, I really hate hand sanding and am trying to switch to belt finishing. I mean, I REALLY hate it. It is the most boring and time and finger joint wasting part of knife making. Yuck!

Do you have a contact wheel? This is my first chef and I just sanded it along the belt with my 10" wheel. Stopped at Trizact A30. I think it is an alright finish.
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For the machined hardened flat sticks you can use a file of the appropriate size and length. Glue your leather strip right into the teeth of the file .
 
Good point from Don. A 2x4 seems way to much to handle. You can use a piece of ironwood as well. 1” wide x 6” long x 1/4” thick or some variation of this

rubber or leather glued on. Works great.
 
Okay, got some fucking awesome feedback here and it was sort of what i was expecting. I'm going to order some rubber and buy the metal sticks. Having a block that is literally a block is also hard to grip and cripples my hands. i think setting up sticks like what nick wheeler uses will also help tremendously.
 
HSC /// said:
Good point from Don. A 2x4 seems way to much to handle. You can use a piece of ironwood as well. 1” wide x 6” long x 1/4” thick or some variation of this

rubber or leather glued on. Works great.
Click to expand...


The block might actually be like 2x3 and the thickness is like .5" but yeah, very sharp edges, harsh finish and impossible to get a good finish with. Ordered some 70 duro rubber and i'll back a bar with it.
 
I wrap the paper around smooth cut triangle files. Real easy to hold tight and real fast to switch over to fresh paper. For final finish I have a piece of aluminum shape like a triangle with rubber glued to it
 
Justin Schmidt said:
Have you watched nick Wheeler video on hand sanding? He answers all your questions
Click to expand...

I have, i guess i'm just needing to make my own sticks. Ordered some rubber like i mentioned, going to reshape the board i place the knives on too. All of this should help.
 
Also, when doing your final pulls, change to a fresh piece of paper with each pull, so you have fresh grit and no swarf, then You're getting more repeatable inputs.

Garbage in = garbage out.
 
I have sanding sticks of varying size and material, but primarily use a flat steel one and one I made out of some home made micarta. The steel isn’t hardened and I used the platen to sand off the mill scale and make it “flat”. I also have a sanding stick that has some cork gasket material glued to it. Basically does the same thing as others have mentioned regarding rubber or leather. Has just a bit of give to it. I use unfaced sanding sticks as I go up in grit, but do finishing strokes with the cork gasket one last. I don’t know if it matters a whole lot or not, but I don’t think I’d pay for surface ground, hardened steel for sanding sticks. Good luck-I hope you get a solution that works well for you. It’s tough to put so much time in and then find little problem areas.


Jeremy
 
Before I cut NEW sheet of sandpaper in piece for sanding stick I put them on glass , then I take some piece of steel and sand it ALL over the new paper..........Since I start to do that I have never had deep scratches that are no there before and come from nowhere :DAnd keep your diamond sharpening stone FAR AWAY from place where you hand sanding ...............
Other thing , I don t use ONE sanding stick for all size of grit .As I go up with grit size I use sanding stick with less width .........help lot and I can use same piece of fine sandpaper longer ....Anyway , these days most time I use round sanding sticks with rubber backing .
Everyone should read this .............there is our nightmare :)
https://scienceofsharp.com/page/2/

don't let this happen :D

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