Hand sharpening vs. Using a system

[EdgePal]

My favorite diamond stones are made by Norton. They have different thicknes - and Chef are calibrated to use 6 mm thick sharpeners. I solve that with layers of tape and build them up to 6 mm total thickness - and meassure this carefully, then can I change between them as I like without change of the edge angle.

Thomas

 

[HeavyHanded]

Thank you for the compliment.
One trick is that I use just a single coarse stone (#240 or #320) for sharpening and therefore do not have to worry about angle variations due to stone thickness.
If I polish an edge with multiple stones from coarse to super-fine, the edge may not be that consistent.

That's the biggest factor with guided systems to be overcome, aside from small stone size on many versions. If its off, and you decide to just stay on that stone and not fudge the angle as the variation be small (or so it appears at first) is where the guided widgets kill your time.

Often as not I only use two or three stones tops, and two of those are either combination Silicon Carbide or combination diamond plate. Then make one shift to microbevel. Guided systems really work best with diamond from the same manufacturer.

Mine stays pretty good as I capture the distance from the guide bar to the stone surface on my first stone and then maintain that spacing with each following stone, whether the stone is 1/4", 1/2" or something else. Still a bit of human element as I have to align the guide bar. Freehand isn't the only strategy that benefits from thoughtful handling - the more I use my system the faster I get the fewer problems. But I'm also working around the more common ones rather than beat my head against them. A sharpening is only worth so much and then you're essentially spending family time with a customer's hardware, for free.

 

[EdgePal]

I use DMT, EzeLap, Norton, Spyderco and some other sharpeners I dont remember the name on - With Chef. The standard sharpener holder can clamp up to 6" cm long sharpeners and the extra long sharpener holder clamp sharpeners up to 23 cm in length.
I tape thin sharpeners so that they are exactly 6 mm thick - and then I can change sharpeners as I like without changing the angle.

There is also possible to adjust for different thickness of sharpeners with a simple extra equipment. No tape needed.

Sharpening tools are different and they perform different things in different precision. Some look the same but can make very different things to a edge - some look very different but can only do the same things as other tools with Basic functions can do. You must understand how tools work to be able to read how each tool works and what it can perform. You must also know what it is you like a tool shall do for you.

Everybody that have make a sharpening tool for them selfs know that this is not easy to do, there is a lot of thinking and testing involved - and it askes a lot of time - and very many misstakes can be made along the way. But it is a fun work to do

My advice is, build the functions you like your rools to have - and then construct it as simple as you can. Then, test it hard and careful in every detail. If you are not satisfyed of the prototype - make a new prototype from scratch.

My first tool take 3 years to construct on more then full time...

Thomas

 

[shinbone]

Ed, I talk with some who use the Buck Honemaster. It was patented in 1978. Since you have one hang on to it. It's not often I see them for sale. The last year Buck offered in their catalog was 1985 / 86. They were well built. DM

At this stage in my sharpening education, I am also a fan of the Buck Honemaster. What it lacks in angle adjustment, it makes up in simplicity. It is dead simple to hold a constant angle while sharpening, and allows me to use any bench stone I want. For just a few buck$ (when they were in production), even a bonehead like myself can get a perfect grind on an edge from the very first use.

Not sure why Buck stopped making them because they are great for a beginner sharpener due to the simple effectiveness and low cost. I see them on ebay all the time going for around $30.

 

[Blues]

^^^^ I always wanted one of those but never got around to it. Picked one up on ebay last night for $25 (including shipping)...purported to be "new old stock" from a warehouse find. We shall see...at least the seller had an excellent rep. I think I enjoy sharpening gear and paraphernalia nearly as much as I do knives.

 

[Sonnydaze]

The real key in freehand sharpening is developing (by practice) the feel for when the apex just begins to make contact on the stone's surface; it'll bite into the grit, and you'll feel the change in friction on the stone when it does. When the angle is too low, you'll also be able to feel the shoulders of the bevels kind of 'skimming' (noisily, roughly) over the grit. When the angle becomes flush to the bevels, it's gets quieter and slicker. Then, when the angle starts to rise just enough to make the apex 'bite' into the stone, there's a different sensation altogether. It'll feel more aggressive, and you can tell the stone is really removing steel at the edge. As you develop the feel via your fingertips, you'll begin to feel the transition from that noisy, rough 'skittering' (as I call it) of the shoulders over the grit, to the slicker & quieter 'skating' effect felt when flush to the bevels, and then to the aggressive 'bite' of the apex into the stone. When you get better at detecting that 3-part transition, you train your hands to ease up on pressure just as you're transitioning into that 'biting' sensation as the cheeks of the apex begin to dig. Easing up in pressure at that precise moment is how the bad effects of any 'bad drag' can be minimized and/or eliminated (eventually).

This seems to be an excellent summary of a correct method to get good edges free-hand.
I am happiest, however, with my Edge Pro Apex...which gives me what I want with little effort.