Handle "rattles"

Semper Fi

Semper Fi

Joined
Feb 23, 2002
Messages
2,633
I recently received my BAS and it is a nice one. Similar to my 15" AK but yet very different. I took it out for a few "test" whacks on my test tree (a 4 to 6" maple bent over in the woods behind my house). Anyway, here is the problem. The handle, although not loose, now rattles. I hit wrong a time or two and got some vibration which probably caused it. Sort of like a few BB's are rattling around inside the handle. Is there anyway to easily fix this or should I just live with it? As I said the handle is not loose, just makes some noise when I swing it.
By the way, the blade was just as sharp when I finished as when I started. :)

Thanks in advance.

Semp --
 
Semp:

I've been meaning to post this question, too. I have the same issue with my Malla.

I THINK it's due to little bits of laha that have broken off inside the handle.

S.
 
Originally posted by spence
Semp:

I've been meaning to post this question, too. I have the same issue with my Malla.

I THINK it's due to little bits of laha that have broken off inside the handle.

S.
Click to expand...
Spence you're exactly right. If the loose laha happens to be under the bolster some thin super glue introduced under the bolster should fix it.
Actually it doesn't matter where the loose laha is if you can get the super glue to it.
The super glue melts the laha for pretty much a permanent fix.
 
You've got it pegged. Bothersome but not a sign of impending disaster. If you want to get serious remove the buttcap and fill the handle cavity with epoxy. Then put it back together. About a 30 minute effort not including epoxy drying time.
 
File the lip off the mushroomed part of the tang. Use very thin blade to pry off keeper, pry off buttcap, fill handle with epoxy, let dry, replace buttcap and keeper, peen tang over again.
 
is your handle horn? if so you could probably drill a tiny hole cut a little space between the butt cap and handle and inject epoxy into the cavity. if your dye your epoxy black (i use Devcon 30 min epoxy and epoxy dye from Texas Knifemakers supply...best combo i have found) it matches the horn almost perfectly. you fill the interior cavity and the hole (or crack or gouge or whatever) with dyed epoxy, let it set up for 24 hrs, then sand it off flush. horn is pretty easy to sand and buff to get it looking like new again. anyways, this might seem kind of involved, but i thought i'd throw it out there in case you weren't into the idea of messing with your butt cap.

good luck,
e.
 
My 20" sirupati blem with hairline cracked handle also has a moveable buttcap. It moves <1 mm side to side in one direction and pops back into place when pressure is removed. The tang seems to stay in the same position relative to the buttplate. Maybe not enough laha in the handle. Uncle Bill's fix seems like it should work but may be more than needed in this case.
 
The drill and squirt method sounds like a good idea.

How about angling the hole through the buttcap, starting next to the keeper. Go slow so as not to hit the tang. While glue is wet pin the hole with brass rod, which should help force glue where its needed, and file/sand the pin flush. May be easier to restore cosmetics this way as well.

I've been thinking along these lines for a knife with a slightly loose buttcap, but I'm pretty sure the tang doesn't move in my case, so I'd just go straight in a little. The only concern I've thought of so far, is that the handle may split later if the tang does get really loose and the pin through the buttcap doesn't loosen. But from pix the Kobra buttcap appears to have two decorative pins through the buttcap. Or does the tang have prongs and mulitiple keepers? Seems a lot of extra work for pronged tang...
 
Just noticed today that the buttcap doesn't move as far as it did a couple days ago. The sirupati has been in the car for a few days and the last couple days have been very warm. Maybe the laha melted and ran down to where it was needed.
 
If it's only the buttcap that is loose, you can often tighten it with some gentle taps on the peened end of the tang. This will remove the small amount of play that develops with time and use. Misses will leave marks on the buttcap, so you have to be careful. If you do leave some marks, you can do as I do and add more marks for an overall hammered look to the buttcap.
 
I have read somewhere that in re-working a handle, you can submerge it in very hot (boiling?) water and it will somewhat soften the laha to allow you to remove it. I wonder if this would work on the horn handle on my BAS? Is this worth trying? Soften the laha so it melts back together in the horn without actually removing the handle? Is it OK to submerge a horn handle in boiling water? How long will it take to soften the laha?

Lots of questions, so little knowledge. :)

Semp --
 
It might be worth a try, Semp. Give it 15 minutes in the boiling water. Won't hurt anything.
 
Careful with boiling the handle, I generally dont do that since often it means destroying the handle in the process. What you can do is to heat the spine of the blade nearest the handle with a torch. Doesnt take much heat to melt the pitch, and if youre careful the temper wont be messed with. Though the key is to be careful. I usually try to move the flame a bit wrap the blade in a wet towel to try and force the heat up into the handle. Hard to describe, though its pretty easy to do. Normally only take a few secs under the torch to heat the pitch enough. Doesnt take too much heat.
 
Thanks Fed.

Sounds like a good idea. I may give that a try. I have a tendency to break things so I will heed your advice to be very careful. :)

Semp --
 
Originally posted by Semper Fi
Thanks Fed.

Sounds like a good idea. I may give that a try. I have a tendency to break things so I will heed your advice to be very careful. :)

Semp --
Click to expand...

Try running the super glue under the buttcap first and if it doesn't work then you're not out much expense or time. The ones I've fixed that way have never came loose again, as yet anyway.
Then if it doesn't work would be the time for more agressive measures.
 
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