handle shaping sander

H

HSC ///

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If money and space was not a problem, what equipment would be most suitable for you for handle shaping?
another dedicated 2 x 72 ? or something else?

I realize there is still file work and hand sanding required.
I'm curious to hear what you all would like to use

regards
 
Drum sanders and spindle sanders are great for handle work. If space and money are no issue, a 2X72 VS or slow speed grinder for wood/handles alone is nice to have.
 
Well a week ago I would have said "what a joke" but a variable speed disc grinder will do a fantastic job. All that is needed is a "cushion" of say 3/4" foam and the disc overtop. Start with 120 and go to 1000 like I did on the last one.
Frank
 
Frank Niro said:
Well a week ago I would have said "what a joke" but a variable speed disc grinder will do a fantastic job. All that is needed is a "cushion" of say 3/4" foam and the disc overtop. Start with 120 and go to 1000 like I did on the last one.
Frank
Click to expand...

interesting..., so you just glued on the foam to the disc and then apply a PSA grit disc?
 
I am continually improving my skills and finding new versatility in my 2x72 grinders. In my opinion, VS is a must. About a month ago I watched Ed Caffery's handle shaping videos on his website, that was definitely time well spent. Removing the platen and splitting belts is a game changer.

Bob
 
Yes, In fact I also have a disc with a scotch brite pad about 3/8" thick -two pieces- that also works great. and I do mean great !!! I did another folder handle with Damascus bolsters and mother of pearl yesterday. I'm most impressed with the finish that results from using the disc.
Frank
 
I'm not really sure why you would need anything if you already have a 2x72/small wheel and a dremel. I mean don't get me wrong, I'm all about justifying large equipment purchases based on minimal need. :D

Really though, I've been using files a lot lately. With the right file you can remove a good amount of material, fast. There's also not as many particulates kicked into the air with file work. I did learn a new technique recently from Nick Wheeler. Using regular cheap sand paper reinforced with duct tape on the back. It makes it real easy to use the "shoe polish" method.
 
JG Custom Metal Works said:
I'm not really sure why you would need anything if you already have a 2x72/small wheel and a dremel. I mean don't get me wrong, I'm all about justifying large equipment purchases based on minimal need. :D

Really though, I've been using files a lot lately. With the right file you can remove a good amount of material, fast. There's also not as many particulates kicked into the air with file work. I did learn a new technique recently from Nick Wheeler. Using regular cheap sand paper reinforced with duct tape on the back. It makes it real easy to use the "shoe polish" method.
Click to expand...
I use the cheapo reinforced sand paper shoe shine as well. It works fantastic ! I have my 4x36 I do the rough shaping with, then rasps and files and sandpaper. I'm still green at knife making, but doing this method, I have been very happy!
 
I have always believed in using what works for you but keep searching for a method that will give better results.
Frank
 
Frank Niro said:
Yes, In fact I also have a disc with a scotch brite pad about 3/8" thick -two pieces- that also works great. and I do mean great !!! I did another folder handle with Damascus bolsters and mother of pearl yesterday. I'm most impressed with the finish that results from using the disc.
Frank
Click to expand...
Frank, could you give us more information about your foam and scotchbrite setup? I'm very interested. I love shaping handles on my disc and I think your setup sounds fantastic.
Frank Niro said:
Well a week ago I would have said "what a joke" but a variable speed disc grinder will do a fantastic job. All that is needed is a "cushion" of say 3/4" foam and the disc overtop. Start with 120 and go to 1000 like I did on the last one.
Frank
Click to expand...
 
JG Custom Metal Works said:
I'm not really sure why you would need anything if you already have a 2x72/small wheel and a dremel. I mean don't get me wrong, I'm all about justifying large equipment purchases based on minimal need. :D

Really though, I've been using files a lot lately. With the right file you can remove a good amount of material, fast. There's also not as many particulates kicked into the air with file work. I did learn a new technique recently from Nick Wheeler. Using regular cheap sand paper reinforced with duct tape on the back. It makes it real easy to use the "shoe polish" method.
Click to expand...

It's true there isn't a "need". However my background is in manufacturing operations. I'm programmed to seek out more efficient ways. Setups in my opinion are a huge non-value added time consumer. One that the customer doesn't pay for. Dedicated machinery and equipment has it's place. If I ever become good enough to be a real knifemaker and make a living out of it, I wouldn't have less than 3 VS grinders, but that's me. If knife-making is your primary income stream, why wouldn't you want to invest in the best equipment that has a many year useful life?

The other neat thing about posting a question like this is that it brings out tangential but relevant experience and ideas such as Frank Niro's suggestion on the disc sander with cushion etc etc

But good point of yours on the file use and less particles. And I too have been using the N Wheeler sand paper reinforcement method.

regards
 
Hi , Brian. This is so simple it's surprising. Just place some G10 on each side of the foam with a little density - say 3/4" thick and you are set to go. The pads I used were the red or maroon coloured ones. I haven't tried a fast speed but about 25% - 35% seems to work real well. My good friend Rod Nielson has tried this out and is very impressed. No more slack belt finishing for him. This one is as good as the glass platen I gave to another forum back about the year 2000.
Frank
 
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Frank Niro said:
Hi , Brian. This is so simple it's surprising. Just place some B10 on each side of the foam with a little density - say 3/4" thick and you are set to go. The pads I used were the red or maroon coloured ones. I haven't tried a fast speed but about 25% - 35% seems to work real well. My good friend Rod Nielson has tried this out and is very impressed. No more slack belt finishing for him. This one is as good as the glass platen I gave to another forum back about the year 2000.
Frank
Click to expand...
What is B10?
 
In all seriousness, I am interested in a response from Frank on this subject. It sounds like a great time saver to me.

(removed my silly remark)
 
Frank,

I must be dumb but I still can't figure out what you are doing. Can you post a sketch or picture, please. Thanks.

Tim
 
Yes, I want to help people on this. Please if I could send pictures or whatever, I would. Okay take one of the metal discs. Glue on a same size disc of G 10 or just go to red scotch brite pad covering that's about 3/8" thick but comes in pieces about 12" x 6" or so and glue these on . I used the 3M feathering disc cement. Now over this glue on a covering of G10 coat this with the feathering disc cement and it's ready to take sandpaper. Of course all are cut to disc size but not critical for balance since all are pretty light. That's all, people. Now it's time to try ! A slow speed is needed and away you go with say a 120. I have not tried a courser grit. It can't possibly work you are thinking but wowzer, wowzer does it do a terrific job.
Once someone comes up with theirs, I would be most pleased to see a picture or more posted.
I sure hope this helps. I got these large scotch brite pads from an auto supply called Lordco.
Frank
 
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