Hard to beat the Buck 110 as an all around folder.

BTW: My wife got me a "vintage" Buck 112 at an antique shopp for Christmas. It looked to be one of the earlier iterations of the 112 with a slightly different tang stamp and sharp edges. Had someone's name crudely carved into the left scale.

Sent it into Buck for Spa Care. Paid ~$6.50 and it came back looking nearly brand new.

Cudos to Buck.
 
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This style belt sheath is very popular in the Western world for a folding knife. Many makers make these, its a pretty common pattern. I always felt it could hold a 110 better, just wasn't enough retention. Kinda relying on gravity more than I liked. I recently redid my pattern trying to solve this situation and have been very pleased with the results. The knife snaps into place, yet still plenty easy to get out when needed.

VknPAfO.jpg


This particular one is done with a water buffalo overlay.

uVcQN4Y.jpg
 
This style belt sheath is very popular in the Western world for a folding knife. Many makers make these, its a pretty common pattern. I always felt it could hold a 110 better, just wasn't enough retention. Kinda relying on gravity more than I liked. I recently redid my pattern trying to solve this situation and have been very pleased with the results. The knife snaps into place, yet still plenty easy to get out when needed.

VknPAfO.jpg


This particular one is done with a water buffalo overlay.

uVcQN4Y.jpg
I can attest, the knife is securely held in place. I turned the sheath upside down and tried to shake the knife out. It did not move, yet when needed it is there
 
The Buck Folding Knife is legendary!!! I carried it Every Day until I picked up a Cold Steel Voyager. The Cold Steel Recon then become my favorite knife when the backlock version was made.

I own many 110's to this day but do Not carry them frequently. They always bring a nostalgic Smile to my face when I put one to work however! It is a classic for good reason!!
 
This style belt sheath is very popular in the Western world for a folding knife. Many makers make these, its a pretty common pattern. I always felt it could hold a 110 better, just wasn't enough retention. Kinda relying on gravity more than I liked. I recently redid my pattern trying to solve this situation and have been very pleased with the results. The knife snaps into place, yet still plenty easy to get out when needed.

VknPAfO.jpg


This particular one is done with a water buffalo overlay.

uVcQN4Y.jpg
Love that BUFF leather.....👌👌👌
 
The functionality is still there but the weight is an issue. It's heavier than a Fallkniven S1 which is crazy to think about.
 
A 110, a BSA whittler and a SAK were the extent of my knives for ages. I graduated to modern folders at some point. Bought a pile of them, love them, use them, and collect them. Still, I choose to carry the big three to this day, and quite often. What can I say? There’s no science to it. No wisdom. You like what you like. Old school or techno-wonder, mine all cut just fine if I sharpen them.
 
Yes but in this case the 420HC is mandatory. Plastic handle and Magnacut blade would be perfect as an inexpensive EDC.


I Cannot Speak for you or Others, but 420HC has never Failed to get me through the day no matter the number of cuts I have to make to get the job done.

The Geometry is really good V S other knifes too, even my beloved Recons. 110's will outcut them many times but just need honed more often!!
 
One of my earliest pocket knives was either a Buck 110 or 112, or a clone thereof. I don't know whatever happened to it, sadly, but it was my first locking knife. I don't remember how old I was, maybe 10 years old?

In any case, I wouldn't choose a 110 or 112 for anything, and haven't since then. Don't get me wrong, they are great knives for what they are, a classic design that is very nostalgic for a lot of people, very well made, reasonably priced, all that. But to say that a Buck 110 is "hard to beat" is a very subjective measure that doesn't answer the question, "Hard to beat...at what, exactly?"

For about the past 20 years, I've carried a Gerber Harsey AirFrame as my "big pocket knife". It's about the same size as a Buck 110, 3.875" blade length, also US made. I own two of them, one a First Production Run in the original machined titanium, and one in the later cast aluminium one, that I reserve for "dressy occasions", mainly because it's much lighter weight, and since it rarely gets carries, is in much less worn condition, so it just looks nicer. Being a liner lock, it's both easier to open and close than a Buck 110, pleases my aesthetic tastes better than a Buck 110, and it has a blade of 154CM steel, which is arguably better steel than a Buck 110's 420HC (though 420HC is a wonderful steel, too). It has a tip-down pocket clip, which is the only style of pocket clip I will even consider, because it's inherently safe.

An aluminium scale version of this knife just sold on eBay the other day for $45 USD, brand new, never used. My eyes just about fell out of my head when I saw there was only one bid on the auction, and I missed the notification. FTR, I paid about $150 for mine, over 20 years ago. Whoever won that auction got the deal of a lifetime on one of the best mass production pocket knives ever made.

screenshot-from-2026-02-25-10-31-48.png
 
One of my earliest pocket knives was either a Buck 110 or 112, or a clone thereof. I don't know whatever happened to it, sadly, but it was my first locking knife. I don't remember how old I was, maybe 10 years old?

In any case, I wouldn't choose a 110 or 112 for anything, and haven't since then. Don't get me wrong, they are great knives for what they are, a classic design that is very nostalgic for a lot of people, very well made, reasonably priced, all that. But to say that a Buck 110 is "hard to beat" is a very subjective measure that doesn't answer the question, "Hard to beat...at what, exactly?"

For about the past 20 years, I've carried a Gerber Harsey AirFrame as my "big pocket knife". It's about the same size as a Buck 110, 3.875" blade length, also US made. I own two of them, one a First Production Run in the original machined titanium, and one in the later cast aluminium one, that I reserve for "dressy occasions", mainly because it's much lighter weight, and since it rarely gets carries, is in much less worn condition, so it just looks nicer. Being a liner lock, it's both easier to open and close than a Buck 110, pleases my aesthetic tastes better than a Buck 110, and it has a blade of 154CM steel, which is arguably better steel than a Buck 110's 420HC (though 420HC is a wonderful steel, too). It has a tip-down pocket clip, which is the only style of pocket clip I will even consider, because it's inherently safe.

An aluminium scale version of this knife just sold on eBay the other day for $45 USD, brand new, never used. My eyes just about fell out of my head when I saw there was only one bid on the auction, and I missed the notification. FTR, I paid about $150 for mine, over 20 years ago. Whoever won that auction got the deal of a lifetime on one of the best mass production pocket knives ever made.

screenshot-from-2026-02-25-10-31-48.png

While I enjoy Harsey designs, if the choice were between a Buck 110 and one of those, it's going to be a 110 for me. Also, the phrase "hard to beat" isn't exactly a phrase that requires qualification or quantification. It's like someone eating a great hamburger, saying "This is the best burger ever!" and then you come in with "Well, h'ACKshually...." For a lot of folks, the Buck 110 does indeed answer the question. In any case, it's just a thread for folks who enjoy the 110, don't really need to think too hard about it. After all, of the two knives, that Gerber Harsey paraframe and the 110...which is still being made and sold today, you know? :D

Also, this knife is in my pocket today* and I'd take it all day long over that Gerber:

SqRjEUt.jpeg


Also, I have to ask, when you said:

"It has a tip-down pocket clip, which is the only style of pocket clip I will even consider, because it's inherently safe."

Did you mean tip-up? Tip up is objectively a safer method of carry, given that your pants hem keeps the knife closed in the event you have a weak detent, or the knife is shaken open in your pocket somehow.

Anyway, back to appreciation for 110s!








* Buck 110s in a pocket sheath are excellent.
 
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While I enjoy Harsey designs, if the choice were between a Buck 110 and one of those, it's going to be a 110 for me. Also, the phrase "hard to beat" isn't exactly a phrase that requires qualification or quantification. It's like someone eating a great hamburger, saying "This is the best burger ever!" and then you come in with "Well, h'ACKshually...." For a lot of folks, the Buck 110 does indeed answer the question. In any case, it's just a thread for folks who enjoy the 110, don't really need to think too hard about it. After all, of the two knives, that Gerber Harsey paraframe and the 110...which is still being made and sold today, you know? :D

Also, this knife is in my pocket today* and I'd take it all day long over that Gerber:

SqRjEUt.jpeg


Also, I have to ask, when you said:

"It has a tip-down pocket clip, which is the only style of pocket clip I will even consider, because it's inherently safe."

Did you mean tip-up? Tip down is objectively a safer method of carry, given that your pants hem keeps the knife closed in the event you have a weak detent, or the knife is shaken open in your pocket somehow.

Anyway, back to appreciation for 110s!








* Buck 110s in a pocket sheath are excellent.
Well, at least Gerber still makes baby food.
;)


edit;
I know, I know.
Don't get your panties in a bunch.

.....it's still funny tho. :)
 
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