Hard to open Native 3

Try loosening the pivot if it has a screw. Beware though, somtimes screws are locktited in and one loosen, and it doesn't stay tight until you locktite it where you want. Most any knife will loosen up with use.

I have three spyderco lockbacks, two with a scew pivot, one pinned. They all flick open easily, the Harpy just took some work. The mouse is too small to flick open, but it readily opens with the "spydie-drop", kind of a reverse flick.
 
enderwiggin said:
You could try loosening the pivot screw in your Native IV. You can't compare a linerlock knife to a lockback. The lockback's spring will be stronger and hold the knife shut better.

In fact, the BM DejaVoo has problems staying shut.

I would expect it to occur to most people that a knife with a riveted-in blade instead of a screwed-in pivot would start out tighter, giving it some time to wear in so it doesn't become sloppy.

Axis lock, lockback, and linerlock are three completely different mechanisms. I have no idea what would make you believe all of them should open in the exact same way.

But then, I'd also expect someone comparing two knives--one with a riveted pivot and one with a screw-in type--to figure out at some point that they could loosen or tighten the screw to adjust the pivot action on their knife.

But really, please don't let any kind of real advice interrupt your trolling.
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That's all great information and I thank you for it. Great answers to a simple question.
 
So first he talks about a "hard to open" Native 3, and then he says the Native 3 is fine, it's a Native 4 that's hard to open? :rolleyes:

Check the pivot screws on your Native 4, and keep in mind that lock backs inherently put pressure on the blade to keep it closed. You probably won't be able to "flick" it like the DejaVoo due to it being a Liner Lock with an exceptionally weak ball dent.
 
Josh K said:
So first he talks about a "hard to open" Native 3, and then he says the Native 3 is fine, it's a Native 4 that's hard to open? :rolleyes:
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I've never said that. I've gotten myself in trouble enough without having to defend things I didn't say, thank you very much. That would be aarong50 and I'm sure he's enjoying just sitting back and watching my train-wreck

Check the pivot screws on your Native 4, and keep in mind that lock backs inherently put pressure on the blade to keep it closed. You probably won't be able to "flick" it like the DejaVoo due to it being a Liner Lock with an exceptionally weak ball dent.
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By "check" my pivot screws what do you mean?
 
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Amnesiac said:
I've never said that. I've gotten myself in trouble enough without having to defend things I didn't say, thank you very much. That would be aarong50 and I'm sure he's enjoying just sitting back and watching my train-wreck



By "check" my pivot screws what do you mean?
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First off, I apologize. I mistook you for the OP. :(

Yes, by "check" I mean grab a TORX wrench and make sure that they aren't cranked down all the way. I would take both sides out, and then put it back in, making sure to keep them at the same tightness. If the blade centers when closed that's a good indicator. You don't want one side loose and the other really tight. It will screw up the opening, and the blade might scrape the liner.
 
Josh K said:
Yes, by "check" I mean grab a TORX wrench and make sure that they aren't cranked down all the way. I would take both sides out, and then put it back in, making sure to keep them at the same tightness. If the blade centers when closed that's a good indicator. You don't want one side loose and the other really tight. It will screw up the opening, and the blade might scrape the liner.
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Okay, thanks. I'll try that tonight.
 
Amnesiac said:
I've never said that. I've gotten myself in trouble enough without having to defend things I didn't say, thank you very much. That would be aarong50 and I'm sure he's enjoying just sitting back and watching my train-wreck
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Then don't hijack his thread about a different knife...
 
A.P.F. said:
WTF? Is this troll central all of a sudden? :mad:
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No kidding! The chances of two different trolls ending up in the same, non-trolling, honest thread were very slim, but hey, it happened. I think I'll go buy a lotto ticket!;)

Regards,
3G
 
I don't think there is any problem with his spyderco native. I just think Amnesiac isn't used to the type of folders spyderco's are and the way they operate. Amnesiac, check out some other spydercos and see if they are the same as yours, as lockbacks have much more spring tension than a axis lock.
 
Tblock1 said:
I don't think there is any problem with his spyderco native. I just think Amnesiac isn't used to the type of folders spyderco's are and the way they operate. Amnesiac, check out some other spydercos and see if they are the same as yours, as lockbacks have much more spring tension than a axis lock.
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Tblock1- Thanks for the advice. I've been working with it now that I have the time and I believe it might not have to do with the spring tension. It seems to be scraping the liners. There's a kind of "crunchiness" ( I know that's not the right term but it just feels like that) if I open it with two hands slow Or fast.

I did find that if I put the knife on an edge of a table and release the blade (so there is no pressure on the knife) it will fold down on its own. But, if I hold the knife lightly between two fingers and release it it doesn't budge. I guess the slight pressure from the sides effects the liners.

I'm going to try loosening the pivot screws to see if that helps. Then, I guess it's on to the soapy water.
 
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Some interesting developments. The pivot screw was already fairly loose when I used the TORX wrench to loosen it. It certainly wasn't already causing too much pressure. I did play with loosening it a bit more and also tightening it and did seem to improve the opening. Then I noticed I was still getting a scraping sound. Specifically, a "nick" sound opening and closing. It appears the kick is making contact with the liner opening and closing. Looking closely I then noticed what I had previously assumed was just a mark on the top edge of the liner. I now think it's a hairline crack. It's right were the kick passes and I'm wondering if the liner is bulging just slightly because of the crack.

Looks like it needs to go to Colorado.
 

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In my humble experience, good lock backs with blades in the 3" area or less just don't flick well because the spring adds pressure to the blade until it locks. Every "good" medium to short blade length lock back that I own is that way. When you get in the 4" blade length area they get a little easier to whip or flick if that's what floats your boat because the longer and heavier blade provides more inertia.

The bottom line though is snapping a folder open is not always good for them in the long haul. Although I do it on occasion for the man thrill, I still seldom do it. In fact, as I have matured in my knife interests I have learned to appreciate a good, smoothe folder that opens nicely with my thumb throughout the entire opening radius then I smile when I hear and feel that clack of the solid lock back engaging ;)

In fact, you'll find that many well made AO's and DA knifes use the thumbstud against the liner as the blade stop because this is a strong and solid way to stop a blade when it opens fast and hard and not eventually wear down, loosen or even break a stop bar or lock back mechanism.
 
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Amnesiac, now that you're a Gold member, you need to go to your User CP and look down the left side to Group Memberships, where you select Gold membership.

This will update your title and name color.
 
Reeek said:
II have learned to appreciate a good, smoothe folder that opens nicely with my thumb throughout the entire opening radius then I smile when I hear and feel that clack of the solid lock back engaging ;)
.
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I am beginning to understand just what you're talking about.
 
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