Hard use on custom knives

C

CCC1522

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Oct 24, 2018
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Hello all this is my first time posting here so I apologize if this topic may have been covered. I did look but couldnt find anything really all that helpful.

Im interested in purchasing a Direware Solo. However, I do not want to spend the money on a piece of art only. I want my knife to be a tool first and a piece of art second. I have heard as we all have that these custom knives are “overbuilt”. Can these knives withstand hard use? I dont plan on abusing mine but I do plan on using it regularly with the occasional hard use outdoors buchcrafting and such. Can these knives withstand these tasks and are they any better than production knives from benchmade or ZT?

Do these knives actually merit the description of overbuilt or are they simply art pieces?
 
“Hard use” is a pretty nebulous and subjective term. I’m not trying to criticize your post, just providing perspective. In order to say whether it will hold up, we have to know if you’re trying to chop, baton, pry, etc.

In general, folders use steels and heat treats emphasizing edge retention and corrosion resistance over toughness. Even “tough” steels by folder standards will often be less tough than carbon steels at a lower HRC, as you often get in fixed blades. As such, they’re relatively crap for impact use and against lateral or torsional force.

If you’re using them to *cut*, it shouldn’t be a problem at all.
 
You probably want to find a knife with the specific grind and geometry for the tasks your going to be doing.

As for diware sure they are pretty good knives built to high standards. But I don't know if the geometry lends itself to bushcraft or other outdoors tasks as well as a tool built specifically for those tasks.

Also as mentioned steel choice and heat treatment is a pivotal choice in a hard use knife. A high stainless super steel is not idea for hard use... Unless the geometry is idea. A high toughness steel would be idea.

A framelock is not idea also. Fixed blade or bust. Check out these guys for all sorts of options

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0k91MwJuS5VvNOJdbDhPYA
 
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Interesting posts. Now I didnt mean to give the impression that I am buying the knife specifically for hard use. However, I did mention that if needed Id like it to be able to withstand occasional bushcrafting tasks when needed. Reason being I want a tough beefy folder that stand up to the name “overbuilt”.

Ive read that these thick spined knives are made as such so that you can chop if needed or do some prying. Im just curious if these high end customs are those knives.

Alot of great answers here. As for direware and bushcraft being used in the same sentence I dont see anything wrong with buying a knife and using it for something when necessary though its design may not be strictly for that intended purpose.
 
If you are set on a $1000 Direwear, get it and grab a cheaper knife to really beat up if needed IMO. Benchmade Adamas, Cold Steel Recon 1, etc.

I prefer a fixed blade such as an ESEE for bushcraft though.

Lots of options....
 
I have no personal experience with Direware but when I think "hard use"/"occasional bushcraft" I think of cutting maybe light batoning. I don't think of prying with a knife as anything but abuse with the exception being "prying" into soft materials like wood or flesh. With that set of circumstances in mind I would say what I have heard about Direware, and many other custom knives, is that I expect it to perform to par or better at those tasks.
 
A common saying is "just because you can doesn't mean you should". ;) You CAN use it for outdoor/bushcraft purposes, but I believe it to be a bad idea. :thumbsdown: As mentioned (see SharpieB post #7), get it if you like it but get something else for outdoor hard use. My .02
 
Your financial situation may make the decision clearer. I have no idea exactly what they run, with whatever options you want, but I'm guessing $750-1100?

To me, "custom", is pride of ownership, far less a matter of utility. I've owner Terzuola, Neeley, Nealy, Clark, Farid, and several other customs over the years. I've found that I'm happier carrying cheaper blades for mundane EDC.

With that in mind, I've found the Boker Plus Vox F3, with S30VN, to be a real sleeper. Beefy blade, of good steel, could probably use a touch of edge thinning out of the box, but very nice action, once broken in, and suitable for anything you might want to use a thick blade folder to do.

Or, ZT, or Spyderco PM, etc..

If the Direwire is "pride of ownership", hey go fir it!:D
 
Frankly, my suggestion would be: "use the right tool for the job". Buying a custom knife and then treating it like:

- a prybar
- a screwdriver
- a spatula
- a manhole cover lifter
- a stepping point jammed into a tree

is bad. Any failure of the knife will be on the user, not the tool. However, if you use a knife for what it's designed to do: cut things, then you will be fine.
 
PirateSeulb said:
I have no personal experience with Direware but when I think "hard use"/"occasional bushcraft" I think of cutting maybe light batoning. I don't think of prying with a knife as anything but abuse with the exception being "prying" into soft materials like wood or flesh. With that set of circumstances in mind I would say what I have heard about Direware, and many other custom knives, is that I expect it to perform to par or better at those tasks.
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That is what I have heard too but havent gotten anyone to actually corroborate it with experience.

Theres a guy on youtube that gets a direware chinee clone in D2 with carbon fiber and titanium scales for 100$ and uses the crap out of it. He chops and beats on it, wedges and prys, and does all sorts of stuff to it and the chinese clone takes it all.

So my thinking is if the chinaman clone can do it I wonder how much stronger the real deal is.

Everyone has great posts im already taking into consideration many things here.
 
Blues Bender said:
Direware+Bushcrafting=ERROR
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Everyone seems to hone in on one thing which I clearly stated would not be the main intended purpose of this knife. I said “occasional hard use such a bushcrafting”

Let me clarify. Can the knife withstand hard use like occasional bushcrafting tasks or the like if needed. Could you baton if needed without worry? Could you chop if needed without worry? Could you pry softet material such as wood or flesh without worry?

What worry you ask? The worry that the pivot would break, the worry that the lock would fail, the worry that the bearings will spill all over the place.

Jesus guys these points arent indiscernible from the original statement/question. Im not sure why everyone simply skips everything and hones in on two words “direware” and “bushcraft”. Its quite frustrating how condescending some of you are.
 
CCC1522 said:
Everyone seems to hone in on one thing which I clearly stated would not be the main intended purpose of this knife. I said “occasional hard use such a bushcrafting”

Let me clarify. Can the knife withstand hard use like occasional bushcrafting tasks or the like if needed. Could you baton if needed without worry? Could you chop if needed without worry? Could you pry softet material such as wood or flesh without worry?

What worry you ask? The worry that the pivot would break, the worry that the lock would fail, the worry that the bearings will spill all over the place.

Jesus guys these points arent indiscernible from the original statement/question. Im not sure why everyone simply skips everything and hones in on two words “direware” and “bushcraft”. Its quite frustrating how condescending some of you are.
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The knife has no intended design outside of being a low production pocket knife made by one guy or possibly a small team of craftsman; therefore the cost. High cost doesn't mean it's going to do it all.

You want something to chop, baton, etc. then look into a knife designed for that. Something like, I don't know, a Becker or a Busse.
 
Blues Bender said:
There's is no such thing as price:strength ratio.
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I didnt say there was.
However there is a such things as Price : workmanship ratio

And there is a such thing as

Quality : workmanship ratio

And when talking about tools this would translate to

Quality : Strength ratio

Or quality : ability to perform

So therefore though not always

Price does determine the ability of a tool to perform. Which I dont think knives are immune to this.
 
Blues Bender said:
The knife has no intended design outside of being a low production pocket knife made by one guy or possibly a small team of craftsman; therefore the cost. High cost doesn't mean it's going to do it all.

You want something to chop, baton, etc. then look into a knife designed for that. Something like, I don't know, a Becker or a Busse.
Click to expand...

Those arent pocket knives. The whole point is to have a pocket knife that COULD manage those tasks OCCASIONALLY.
 
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