Hard use on custom knives

Rob72 said:
My bias- I quit buying $500+ folders several years ago. Not that I don't like or appreciate them, it just didn't make sense for me to have so much $$ tied up in pieces that lost value in use, and were high-loss items if damaged or stolen.
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Just curious, do you own a car?

:)
 
CCC1522 said:
Thank you for this. This is exactly what I needed to see. The direware may not be a medford but im sure it cant be too far behind if not equal. And this guy did far more than what I am planning.
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If you baton with any folder, I would suggest to disengage the lock. That way no lock damage can occur. Though it's not idea if you get a blade that cannot take the shock of the hammer hitting the steel. Ie the heat treatment has to be on point with a steel type that has some toughness. Ie 3v,m4,curwear etc. Something like m390, 20cv,204p at 61hrc is likely to snap. But this *may vary with the blade geometry too.
 
CCC1522 said:
Interesting posts. Now I didnt mean to give the impression that I am buying the knife specifically for hard use. However, I did mention that if needed Id like it to be able to withstand occasional bushcrafting tasks when needed. Reason being I want a tough beefy folder that stand up to the name “overbuilt”.

Ive read that these thick spined knives are made as such so that you can chop if needed or do some prying. Im just curious if these high end customs are those knives.

Alot of great answers here. As for direware and bushcraft being used in the same sentence I dont see anything wrong with buying a knife and using it for something when necessary though its design may not be strictly for that intended purpose.
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If you’re going to spend that much on a knife spend abit more and get one of the tops folders which are designed for light bushcraft use. They have two for this role the tops fieldcraft folder and the smaller tops mini scandi folder.

Still a folder should never be batonned with. Although if you must baton with it do so with the lock disengaged and the handle hanging limp so that way the lock doesn’t take the force of the blows which will destroy virtually any lock.
 
Actually, CCC1522, the Buck CSAR-T was designed for some tough use I believe. I have one and also its fixed blade brother, I can tell you that they seem to be very nicely made, you might look into them.

Knives meant for chopping and what not are made with a "tough" steel and are distinct from what you usually see in a knife, especially a folder.
 
Here is a legitimate hard use "folder". It had a massive liner lock and a steel guard which folded over to reinforce the lock.

imperial_machete_2_340_454_75_c1_center_center_smart_scale.jpg


AAFFoldingMachetelock.jpg


type-imperial-folding-machete-knife_1_ff862c204e5e50b75fc0af13732d244d.jpg


Not many knives are made like this.

n2s
 
I wonder why. :rolleyes: Thank you, however, for a view of a knife I've never seen. Would you be kind enough to tell what it is/was, or, at least, some dimensions (it looks rather large and WW IIish)? :)
 
How do you chop with a direware? Better be something small. If anything bigger than a small branch you will be there for awhile. "Only 7,201 more swings to go before I cut down this tree!"
 
katanas said:
I wonder why. :rolleyes: Thank you, however, for a view of a knife I've never seen. Would you be kind enough to tell what it is/was, or, at least, some dimensions (it looks rather large and WW IIish)? :)
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It is an Imperial made folding machete made for the US air force after 1946/1947. It was part of an emergency kit carried on some of the larger aircraft.

n2s
 
When it comes to wanting a knife you could put to use elsewhere, you could use an SAK for bushcraft purposes and EDC purposes- or a multitool.

Why not carry something like a multitool with a saw, and then carry a dedicated knife blade for doing things you should be doing with a knife. Don't go pounding on your tools in ways they shouldn't be, learn how to use your tools within their uses to get a job done. For instance, with a saw you typically don't need to baton, saw halfway through the log and then thwack it against something- or make wedges and use wedges. You don't need super tough tools- just the right tools and knowledge on how you can adapt those to a given purpose without endangering the tool or yourself.
 
not2sharp said:
Here is a legitimate hard use "folder". It had a massive liner lock and a steel guard which folded over to reinforce the lock.

imperial_machete_2_340_454_75_c1_center_center_smart_scale.jpg


AAFFoldingMachetelock.jpg


type-imperial-folding-machete-knife_1_ff862c204e5e50b75fc0af13732d244d.jpg


Not many knives are made like this.

n2s
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Not gonna lie I thought this was a product of @Charlie Mike! Haha

Of course you can use the $1000 folder to baton, and chop with! But if it breaks, now your out of a grand and a knife when a $50 izula would have been just as easy to carry and handle the job WAY better.
My suggestion would be to use the custom as knife that's will strictly CUT things. And other tools for outdoors stuff.
 
I have big knives, little knives, "tactical" knives and outdoor knives. As far as folding outdoor/bushcraft, my favorite is the Victorinox Trekker
https://www.swissarmy.com/us/en/Pro...MIw6ya4qKk3gIVBgxpCh2sWwMfEAQYAyABEgLgL_D_BwE
Not an EDC, but I have one in my truck, my wife's car, and each of our emergency bags. If there is any usable wood around, you can use the Trekker to make many/most other implements. Just another thought.:cool:

Edit: Hmmm. Mine are the old (I guess) bar locks, deactivated by a sliding button on the side. I like that a whole lot more that the new liner-lock style.
 
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