Hard Use Spyderco

I don't know of any Spyderco that isn't good for hard cutting. The thing that I always feel is ironic is that the most expensive steels tend to be used on the knives that are most likely to be babied because they are valuable. I would use the largest version of the Tenacious if I wanted to be cheap or a Manix 2XL or Military if I wanted to use higher grade steel. I think the Native is a sturdy blade for heavier cutting, and either the Centofante III or any FFG Spyderco would work well as a dedicated slicer.
 
I've got a PPT, Endurance, Cento 4, & Manix 2, and all but the Cento I would say could be used hard.
 
Flashpoint said:
I've got a PPT, Endurance, Cento 4, & Manix 2, and all but the Cento I would say could be used hard.
Click to expand...

My first Gen Spyderco/Centofontaine is the only Spydie that ever broke on me and Spyderco CS said they couldn't replace it but offered me credit for more than I paid for it, I got an FRN Dyad Jr. and a SS Dragonfly from them.

Down the road a forum member here heard my story and offered to sell me a passaround knife of the same type as the Cento for a very good price so all was well.

Spydies were one of my first hard use EDCs I bought the Worker first, than the Terzuola, and when I began to travel for work, I got the Copilot, who'd a thunk it, an air travel friendly knife designed for carry on an airplane, (what has this world devolved to?

To date I have about a dozen Spydecos and all except the Cento still see rigorus use.
 
Man o man, I'm gonna burn in he$$ for saying this, but every time I've used my Para2 for hard work I've been disappointed. First, the handle slab is to thin where the lock release is and when I'm trimming a small branch or cutting some slivers of wood for kindling that area totally digs into the base of my thumb. Then there's the blade shape. I'm sorry, but that blade shape just doesn't dig in like my other knives. The constant curve of the blade away from the cutting area makes the blade seem like its sliding away from from the cut rather than digging in. The blade needs a straight area before the belly. On my knife, and maybe it was just a problem with mine, but deployment was slow. It just doesn't fly open like I was expecting. I really wanted to like this knife. The lock is great and when you're just holding it, or cutting cardboard boxes the ergos are very nice, but for hard cutting chores I like my zt560 a lot more even though that has a pretty thick blade on it.

a lot of times, the best knife, or gun, or car, or even house, is the one that isn't great at anything in particular, but scores a solid 8 out of 10 in most catagories without doing anything terribly wrong. That's why, years later, my BM941 and my large sebenza still find a lot of time in my pocket. But like everyone else, I'm still looking for a truly great, ok, I'll say it, perfect full size hard use folder.
 
First thing that came to mind is the Para 2, since that's what I use for almost all tasks whether they are "hard" or not. Second was a fully serrated Manix 2, since that's what I use for hard cutting tasks involving fibrous materials like rope, vines or vegetation.

Third was the Gayle Bradley, since they specifically call it a hard use knife. Personally I'm not a huge fan because there's not enough of a barrier between my hand and the edge to make me comfortable. The Bradley makes me nervous that I'll slide my hand up on the edge. But I guess if someone's definition of hard use is hitting it with a hammer then that might not be an issue for them :D
 
I know the original Native isn't as fancy as some of the knives mentioned here, but it is a very tough, hard use blade! No maybe not the best at slicing cardboard over and over due to the blade style, but for most anything else I love it! I have a hard time believing it is as light as it is yet has amazingly tight/strong lock up!
Don't count this knife out just because it isn't a high dollar knife.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top