Hardwoods that dont need to be stablized?

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Apr 14, 2006
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Does any 1 have a list of these woods? I'm pretty sure cocobolo doesnt need to be stablized and think some rosewoods such as boliva rosewood or honduras. i found a small little wood working shop for hobbist locally and they have a pretty nice selection of woods. so just for future so i know what i can purchase would be nice.
 
Iron wood, snakewood, lignum vitae and ebony are some of the woods I've used. I'm sure there are others.


Monty
 
Most of the tropical hardwoods have so much natural oil that they don't need to be stablized, but be sure to wear some sort of mask when working with these. The dust can be very toxic.

I have some osage orange (bodark, bois d'arc) that is over 25 years old. It does not crack, chip, peel or rot. I have even made a punch out of it to drive bearings in place. It's very tough stuff.
 
Dakota,
One thing you need to keep in mind is that the stabilization process also helps the wood finish to a high lustre easier than unstabilized woods.
Matt
 
I'll agree with cocobolo, rosewoods, and lignum vitae, but snakewood and ebony are notorious for moving, warping, cracking, etc. A good substitute for ebony is African blackwood (which I don't believe needs stabilization). Also, don't forget Desert Ironwood.

I can't stress enough though that you MUST wear a good respirator when working with these (or really any) woods. The oils from exotic hardwoods can be toxic, and ironwood contains silicates that can give you silicosis. A good respirator is only about $30....You can't afford to NOT have one.

-d
 
I agree with decker about the snakewood. The stuff cracks just looking at it. Most of the rosewoods are good - including African Blackwood which is a rosewood.

Rob!
 
I actual use Bone, Stag, and Horn on most of my knives. But I got some of the Desert Ironwood. I been wanting to use on some of my knives. I use to do wood working back a few years ago and I put some back for knives. Hope all comes out ok when I use it. We will see. :)
 
No worries about the mask , i use one always when im doing any kind of grinding or sanding. Mr. Barke how does bone work is it anything like wood or is it a more dedicated mediem. always like the look but price has intimidated me with it for fear of failure.
 
Most of the tropical hardwoods have so much natural oil that they don't need to be stablized, but be sure to wear some sort of mask when working with these. The dust can be very toxic.

I have some osage orange (bodark, bois d'arc) that is over 25 years old. It does not crack, chip, peel or rot. I have even made a punch out of it to drive bearings in place. It's very tough stuff.

This is just a little off subject, but I thought I'd mention it for those of you that rebuild your own equipment or work on your cars.

A much better material for driving bearings is key stock or cold rolled steel! Wood no matter how hard it is, will chip and mushroom. Brass and lead are also too soft. Keystock or cold rolled steel will not hurt a bearing no matter how large the hammer or how hard you swing. Plus, keystock and cold rolled won't chip or mushroom.

Never use a steel punch or hardened driver of any kind.

Ickie
 
Does any 1 have a list of these woods? I'm pretty sure cocobolo doesnt need to be stablized and think some rosewoods such as boliva rosewood or honduras. i found a small little wood working shop for hobbist locally and they have a pretty nice selection of woods. so just for future so i know what i can purchase would be nice.

Be careful, though. Many such woods are highly poisonous, or can give you rash, or build allergies, or all together.
Wear always eye, breath and skin protections while working with these woods.
 
Ipe does not need to be stabilized. It is also known as brazillian walnut. The stuff is used for decking so it is cheap, and for the most part the only wood harder is lignum vitae. The stuff does not float in water. I have only found one place that sells ipe that is figured though.
 
I have been using stabilized only wood for some time, now. One of the woods not stabilized I have used for years is Osage Orange. In fact, I was in the shop today working some large pieces down to about 1 1/2" for drying.
I do think this Osage I have worked down will be sent off to be stabilized after drying, though. I like the finishing aspects of the stabilized wood, for one thing. We all know the other advantages of stabilized wood.
My antler and horn handle work on working hunters has held up fine without stabilizing, as well as ivory inlay work on working hunters. The mammoth ivory was inlayed into stabilized wood and Acra Glassed in.
 
bout the only woods you'll see out of my shop not stabilized are iron wood and cocobolo but im sure i ll play with more cool stuff as i go and im sure some will not need stabilization
 
How about walnut? Its been used on fine guns for years. Has a lot of figure in claro. Has such a nice warm glow. This is a photo I just sent to a knifemaker for a bowie he is making me.
 

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How about walnut? Its been used on fine guns for years. Has a lot of figure in claro. Has such a nice warm glow. This is a photo I just sent to a knifemaker for a bowie he is making me.

Many woods don't NEED to be stabilized, but will still benefit from it. Walnut is one of these. Sure, you can finish it with tung oil and have a beautiful finish, but this can take weeks to do right. Or, you can have it stabilized, buff it out, and have no worries about warping, etc.

-d
 
Anybody know if koa needs to be stabilized? I've never worked with it before, and a customer recently ordered it on a knife.
 
Koa is another one that may work well either way. I believe Tom Mayo used to use it unstabilized and had good results. I use it and sell a lot of it - all stabilized. The finished product has to be seen in a sunbeam to appreciate it properly. Georgeous!

Rob!
 
ipe is one the be used in a well ventilated area. I have done some high end decks with the stuff, and when cut i have found it to almost be as irratating to the eyes as pepper spray.
 
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