Hardwoods that dont need to be stablized?

warping and cracking happens to straight grained wood whose straight fibers act as moisture capillaries. correct me if i'm wrong but any hardwood that has a good burl all around, assuming it was dried and seasoned well, doesn't need stabilizing.
 
hank_rearden said:
warping and cracking happens to straight grained wood whose straight fibers act as moisture capillaries. correct me if i'm wrong but any hardwood that has a good burl all around, assuming it was dried and seasoned well, doesn't need stabilizing.
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If a burl soaks up water it will swell in all directions and definately not be straight like it was. burl is worse than straight grained wood by a longshot.
 
Does Bocote need to be stabilized? One of the guys over at the Wilderness & Survival Sub-Forum put new Bocote grips on his BK-2, and it looks drop-dead gorgeous. :thumbup:
 
I worked with rosewood, praduak and similar woods in this family. They are just too waxy. You can't stabilize them anyway. I tried boiling in linseed oil for a night and let it cool for a week. Only 1/32 was penetrated by oil. How could you stabilize such woods?
 
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