The ultimate knife to do this for me was the United Cutlery Rambo II: I had two original no-dot Liles, and found the United copy far better made, with a better centered and more consistent edge (except for the soft plunge line in the last 1/4", fattening the edge at the heel, but that was fixed by REK). Overall edge thinness was a similar 0.030", but far more consistent overall, and the blade finish on the $100 knife was not some horrible machine tool mark/rough sandblasting landscape like on the $2000 Lile...
Another Lile I owned (SLy II) was even worse, with the ugly dual grinder "swells" matching every teeth all the way down into the clip...
To top it off, UC's 420J was not only far easier to sharpen, but it also did not chip unpredictably like Lile's D-2 did, on the contrary 420J held its edge (when chopping into wood) just about as well or better than anything else I ever tried (and way better than the Sly II).
The UC's handle construction is a poured resin plug, over a full width 6 mm thick 1" tang, pretty much like several high end custom HHs I owned, all with the same potential to develop guard rattle if the guard is hit and acts as a lever, causing a slight backward movement of the tube handle. Because, in all these cases, the inside of the tube is left smooth, the guard's leverage can cause enough tube movement to allow guard rattle. This then never goes further, owing the resin's apparent immense hold... I fixed a Colin Cox by really roughening the inner tube with a drill, then re-pouring the resin. In the UC "Rambo II" case, the guard is smaller, pointy ended and not lugged, so it will not easily find the leverage to cause itself to rattle. To their credit, real Liles are also made with identical poured resin plugs, but the resin appears to have a more mechanical "shoulder hold" on the tube handle's inner surface: One hard guard hit with the Sly II (on a protruding branch) produced only a bent guard with no rattle. Large guards do help save on fingers...
Gaston