Hatchet Jack

Sweet hatchet guys. The smooth rear half of the handle, with the finger grooved forward half of the handle is a really great idea. To my mind would be extremely practical and comfortable. It's also really well executed.

I say again, nice work guys.
 
RyanW said:
That first video made me tired just watching it!
Click to expand...

almost more tiring watching it than doing the work! lol

That branch I was hacking at is cherry, which is usually an easy cut when it's green. This one came down a year ago across the trail, and around then I cut this branch off the main stem so it's been seasoning nicely for a year. I was a little surprised by how hard it was. That being said, for such a small hatchet, this thing has some great mechanical advantage.
 
I really like these

Hawk or hatchet throwing is a lot of fun

I just taught a buddy and gave him a good hawk of his own

I like your compact design and this would make a nice combat hawk also

As for throwing I have found traditional hafted Hawks have a slight advantage at being thrown

Congrats on a cool project
 
JParanee said:
I really like these

Hawk or hatchet throwing is a lot of fun

I just taught a buddy and gave him a good hawk of his own

I like your compact design and this would make a nice combat hawk also

As for throwing I have found traditional hafted Hawks have a slight advantage at being thrown

Congrats on a cool project
Click to expand...

Thanks Joe :)
I love throwing sharp things; darts, knives, hatchets, spears, whatever. I have a lot of fun with it, although I still really suck. I always hope I get better each time, but sometimes it's almost as if I've never thrown before.

As for the 'combat' aspect of this thing, I have a feeling that you're on to something. This hatchet really feels weaponly, if there is such a word.

The way it's shaped would probably make it shine for arm locks and such, and obviously it would be effective as an impact tool- sharp edge aside.

Also, due to the exaggerated handle/edge angle, it provides quite a lot of power without being too long to be effective in close quarters. Its size also lends itself to pretty easy carry, although the huge thickness of this one, (8mm) makes it portly which I like, but if you're humpin around a lot of gear, those extra ounces add up.

Regardless, I would not enjoy being on the receiving end of Hatchet Jack- thrown or otherwise :)
 



Resharpening provides fantastic insight into the properties of the metal and its heat treatment.
I found this A2 to be very similar to most high carbon steels I've experienced- it's very fine structurally, hard and not very elastic.
Getting to a polished state is not overly time consuming, despite a fairly high hardness, (I'm guessing +/- 59HRC for this one).
Unlike many highly alloyed metals, A2 and its ilk are not gummy and elastic, and readily give up the burr when final honing commences.
The large ding that occurred to the edge during a hard landing into some rocks was easily removed.
After a resharpen on medium then fine benchstones, diamond hones and then ceramics brought the bevel to the state you see here.
This finer edge will be less durable in impact related uses, but for what I've got planned, it will be more effective and efficient.


Hatchet Jack was thoroughly tested over last weekend, and proved very capable in doing the heavy lifting;

-it packs a punch outside its size and weight range in the chopping department
-the handle retains incredible traction when soaking wet and covered in mud
-the tumbled finish seems to repel corrosion quite well
-the multiple grips positions are actually useful
-balance is excellent, making for predictability, (throwing consistency is almost always an indicator of good balance)
-construction is bombproof. Multiple, high energy inputs would do nothing to loosen the handle or otherwise cause things to fall apart
-belt or pack carry is great. Despite its heft, Hatchet Jack's size helps it integrate into whatever carry system is chosen and be unobtrusive
-TeroTuf is the shit:thumbup:

All that being said, I'm working with Ryan to dial this pattern in for the next run of 10 he'll be doing. Among the planned changes;
-thinner stock, around .250"
-slightly straightening the handle
-aligning the hammer poll so it can be more effective
-designing the handle scales for one hand only

Another idea I had was to go down to around .189" stock, skeletonizing a little more for weight savings, and developing an underarm carry rig. This would be a weaponized version that may never happen, but the idea's been rattling around in my head since Joe's post.

I'm looking forward to some more testing, and plan to employ the hatchet for more delicate tasks to determine its versatility.
 
Lorien if I may suggest some things

I sharpen all my hawks on a leather wheel and I finish on a buffing wheel

Leaves a mirror edge

For the next run may I suggest a tapered tang like Winkler does on the Sayoc Hawks

Better balance and throwing capabilities :)

Great project
 
great suggestions, Joe. If we were to taper the handle, I'd go with a stock thickness between what we have now, and .250".

I don't have a machine, but I do have a pretty decent ghetto leather strop that seems to work pretty good for getting that polish. The edge bevel is almost scratch free after a few sessions in between bicycle repairs today. I must say, a polished edge bevel can make most any edged tool more attractive. Maybe moreso than indexed fasteners. Lol.
 
That sounds perfect

When I have time I will take some pics of the polished edges I put on my hawks and maybe a throwing video :)
 
Will York said:
After studying it a bit, I'd like to know a little more if possible...

Could you discuss:

> Your thinking on sizes/uses for the various thru-holes?

> Why the jimping on the pommel?

> Approximate weight and balance point?

> Is the wedge-ground back end of the head sharpened? Could you talk about your intended use for that particular design feature? Did you think about modifying that into a hammer poll and/or a longer spike as an option?


Will
Click to expand...

I missed the answers to these questions.


I'm surprised you want to do more skeletonizing




Have you got a specific reason for that big hole in the head and the tiny web that supports it ?

I'm guessing if it breaks, it might be there.



RE the wedged back poll
I noticed on the field knife youdid with Nathan, you had that on there too.
What's you intended use for that ?
I'd be thinking it would stick me in the hip for belt sheath carry, or somewhere else during use.
 
12345678910 said:
I missed the answers to these questions.


I'm surprised you want to do more skeletonizing




Have you got a specific reason for that big hole in the head and the tiny web that supports it ?

I'm guessing if it breaks, it might be there.



RE the wedged back poll
I noticed on the field knife youdid with Nathan, you had that on there too.
What's you intended use for that ?
I'd be thinking it would stick me in the hip for belt sheath carry, or somewhere else during use.
Click to expand...

Thanks for bringing Will's questions back up!
I had intended to answer them once I got my prototype, and I sort of answered a couple of them through the videos I posted, but I'll take some time this weekend to take them on and provide some more clarity and detail.

As for your questions/comments;

-more skeletonizing; I would only do that for a concealed carry, weaponized version in order to reduce weight

-the hole; yes, technically it could be seen as a stress riser. In practical terms, however, there is a lot of material above it, and the amount of material on the underside is not insubstantial- the chamfering makes it look very thin, but it' actually 3mm of material, 8mm thick at its thickest. The hole removes weight from the head, and provides the ability to really choke up for fine work, like skinning and fleshing. I'll take some pics and video of that feature in use, (for other stuff).

-the design includes a hammer poll. Ryan experimented with the wedge, which isn't sharp. It could be used to break shit, like bones, joints etc for the huntsman. Because of the curvature of the handle, the hammer feature isn't that effective. The new version that I'm working on now, (Ryan will be making 10 of them) will work better in that regard, to the point where hammering nails into stuff will be possilble, although not as convenient as a real hammer.


As for Nathan's knife, I'll address your questions regarding its design features in its thread.
 
So the holes are just for weight reduction--no other significance to location, size or contemplated use?

And the jimping on the pommel?

If these are simply cosmetic/styling features, that's fine--just wondering.

Thanks, Lorien. :thumbup:
 
Lorien said:
...The hole removes weight from the head, and provides the ability to really choke up for fine work, like skinning and fleshing. I'll take some pics and video of that feature in use, (for other stuff).
Click to expand...

Lorien,

When you say choking up, are you putting a finger through that larger hole? Interested to see the pics if so--wondering about the angle that suggests.

Thanks again.
 
this little vid shows the various grip positions, and in general, how they're meant to be employed;

[video=youtube;Qcwp6dC47wQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qcwp6dC47wQ[/video]

The texturing at the handle's butt doesn't really have a specific purpose, other than to provide traction. Could be you need to hammer on something slippery, or have need to shred at something. It's a feature that doesn't impose any downsides, that could be used for any number of unforeseen tasks. You could probably strip a wire with it, even.

I'll get to explaining the placement of the other holes later. Right now, it's time to go for a ride!
 
Lorien

The original WSKs used to have similar holes and they were referred to as arrow straighteners

As in if you had to fabricate a wooden shaft you could lied the arrow in and apply torque with some heat etc to get an emergency type shaft straighter in a survival situation

I have never done this so I do not know how well it works
 
Not gonna keep the hand guard on, as it gets in the way of throwing, but I hope to test it out tomorrow on a brutal rose bush that's taking over our yard. I was thinking you could do a boiled leather hand guard that you could make nice and wide for ultimate finger protection. My version of a safety axe maybe?










 
the hand guard feature actually does work! (without getting in the way)

[video=youtube_share;MOKK3ZtW5P8]http://youtu.be/MOKK3ZtW5P8[/video]

[video=youtube_share;PJOMmXio7UE]http://youtu.be/PJOMmXio7UE[/video]

[video=youtube_share;4nE6mkNX4H0]http://youtu.be/4nE6mkNX4H0[/video]















For those of you sick of hearing about it, rest assured that I'm done posting stuff about this version of Hatchet Jack. Gird your loins, though! Hatchet Jack V.2.0 is coming...(but not for awhile yet :) )
 
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