Heat treat issues

DevinT said:
Coupon is a word used in metal working to mean small piece. A welding coupon or a heat treating coupon etc.

I would try it without any cycling, in the as received condition.

Hoss
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I used a scrap piece to do a water quench. After some serious sanding, I got some hardness, about 55hrc. Dunked in water to keep cool after each pass. I had to sand a divot into metal before I found the hard spot.
 
wingnutgabber said:
I used a scrap piece to do a water quench. After some serious sanding, I got some hardness, about 55hrc. Dunked in water to keep cool after each pass. I had to sand a divot into metal before I found the hard spot.
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When you ran your 1525f for 18min, how many blades did you have in your furnace?
 
I ran into a similar problem, but with parks 50. I quenched four blades in 1084/15n20 Damascus, and then I did 3 blades in Blue #2. None of the blue steel hardened. My oil was too hot after the first 4 blades. I have a 4" square tube, 24" tall, with around 18-20" of oil in it.

I am guessing the first 2 blades were the ones that hardened and the others, the oil was too hot to quench quick enough?
 
Taz said:
I ran into a similar problem, but with parks 50. I quenched four blades in 1084/15n20 Damascus, and then I did 3 blades in Blue #2. None of the blue steel hardened. My oil was too hot after the first 4 blades. I have a 4" square tube, 24" tall, with around 18-20" of oil in it.

I am guessing the first 2 blades were the ones that hardened and the others, the oil was too hot to quench quick enough?
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The two blades that I was able to harden were done last week on their own. Right now I am using canola oil and I keep it heated to about 125-150 for quenching. I have a thermometer I keep in the oil to keep an eye out on temp. I have quenched in cooler oil and hotter and still no hardening. Idk what I did differently with those two blades than any of the ones before or after.
 
Stacy has a good point, we have see makers receive incorrect steel from... sketchy suppliers we'll say. Where did you get your steel?
 
It doesn't have to be "Sketchy Suppliers".
I have grabbed a bar of 1095 steel from the rack that was not labeled and made a blade from it that would not harden ... turned out I grabbed a piece of stainless steel.
 
wingnutgabber said:
The two blades that I was able to harden were done last week on their own. Right now I am using canola oil and I keep it heated to about 125-150 for quenching. I have a thermometer I keep in the oil to keep an eye out on temp. I have quenched in cooler oil and hotter and still no hardening. Idk what I did differently with those two blades than any of the ones before or after.
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Where are you from?

Hoss
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
It doesn't have to be "Sketchy Suppliers".
I have grabbed a bar of 1095 steel from the rack that was not labeled and made a blade from it that would not harden ... turned out I grabbed a piece of stainless steel.
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I purchased all my steel from New Jersey steel baron. Been getting 4’ bars of the SUP9 from them. The few pieces of 80crv2 I was using are from their cutoffs discount bundle. The two knives I was able to harden were out of the cut off bundle. All others are the SUP9.
 
DevinT said:
Where are you from?

Hoss
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I am in Oregon. Purchased all my metal from NJSB. My heat treat kiln is a brand new from USAknife makers. The ready ship knife dog. Though it arrived it had a bad control panel but paragon did a warranty replacement for it. All the metal I heat to Austenizing temp become non magnetic. I do test heatings first before heating metal for quenching.
 
wingnutgabber said:
I purchased all my steel from New Jersey steel baron. Been getting 4’ bars of the SUP9 from them. The few pieces of 80crv2 I was using are from their cutoffs discount bundle. The two knives I was able to harden were out of the cut off bundle. All others are the SUP9.
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So the 80CrV3 hardened but the SUP9(~5160) did not?
 
DeadboxHero said:
So the 80CrV3 hardened but the SUP9(~5160) did not?
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Only two pieces of 80crv2 hardened. I had a few other blades made from it but they didn’t either. I asked NJSB what the heat treat for SUP9 was and they said the same as 80crv2. They don’t have a heat treat data sheet for it. I have speed oil arriving in a week. Hopefully that was the issue.
 
wingnutgabber said:
I am in Oregon. Purchased all my metal from NJSB. My heat treat kiln is a brand new from USAknife makers. The ready ship knife dog. Though it arrived it had a bad control panel but paragon did a warranty replacement for it. All the metal I heat to Austenizing temp become non magnetic. I do test heatings first before heating metal for quenching.
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There are a lot of good knife makers in Oregon, if you could be more specific, I think we could find you some help.

I will be glad to help more if you want to contact me through IG. Devin Thomas damascus.

Hoss
 
DevinT said:
There are a lot of good knife makers in Oregon, if you could be more specific, I think we could find you some help.

I will be glad to help more if you want to contact me through IG. Devin Thomas damascus.

Hoss
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Thank you very much. I am in Salem area. What is IG?
 
I HT some .135" 80crv2 through a normalizing, grain refining and DET anneal cycle and then austentize, with no decarb protection. I had to grind it down to around .090" to get into hard metal.
 
Taz said:
I HT some .135" 80crv2 through a normalizing, grain refining and DET anneal cycle and then austentize, with no decarb protection. I had to grind it down to around .090" to get into hard metal.
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I have 4mm thick metal. I ground of 1mm and still soft. I ordered decarb protection. Hopefully that and the speed oil will fix my issue.
 
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