Recommendation? heavy duty EDC

For construction that isn't a short help family and friends project. I would defiantly go inexpensive and easy to maintain. lots of options, USA Made Blades exclusive Knockout would be prefect IMO. Just over $100 for a US made folder in M390. A CS Recon in the size you like, in S35VN or if you can find one of the slightly older XHP ones would be a great choice too.

That said I would probably go the fixed blade route and a CPK EDC model is a great all rounder suggestion if you can get one.
 
I think a lot of it depends on what you'll be doing. In my line of work my knife is used to cut open boxes, cut/trim duct tape, cut plastic drain tile. All of these things don't require any prying and a super short and thin box cutter style blade won't get the job done. I find I need about 3" of blade with a firm control of the handle to power through the thicker plastic.

My old man has gotten by with a Buck 110 for 45 years. He does all of that. The only cringeworthy things I see him do with it is scrape mud out of his boots or dig dirty grease out of the skid steer joints before pumping new in.
 
You can always use your PM2 for work & buy a new knife for good. The PM2 will handle just about any cutting chore. Like most knives, it won't work well as a pry bar, but since you're in construction, those tools are handy anyway. Right?
 
What I've learned over the years is that a thinner blade is a better cutting tool for the things you've listed. Even if it's dull, it cuts better than a thick blade. That's why a box cutter works so well. I typically use a folding box cutter, blades are cheap and easily replaced. I'll use my knife when I'm too lazy to go get the box cutter, of course when you're in an attic and have to crawl in and out, I'll use what's on me. IMO, a Spyderco with a FFG will be your best tool to use. Less of a chance to get hurt because it won't get hung up cutting something.
The 562 is a good knife, it's not a good construction knife. The bearing attract grit and dust, it'll drive you nuts when you feel/hear grit/dirt when you open it. I will not bring a bearing knife on some of the jobs I do because of that.
Like what's already been stated, a pocket size prybar or a flat head screwdriver for prying. The quickest way to see 250.00 go down the drain is to use a knife as a prybar.
 
I've always wondered how long $1.00 fixed blades from the Dollar Store would last as real beaters. Maybe some of the contractors could chime in on that.
 
abcdef said:
I've always wondered how long $1.00 fixed blades from the Dollar Store would last as real beaters. Maybe some of the contractors could chime in on that.
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just going based on how theyre a $1 they’re probably not full tang so the handle would probably snap before anything
 
It's not as cool as many mentioned above but get an OLFA knife and the heavy duty blades, then maybe a small fixed blade I often keep my Ruike f114 in my belt but rarely use it for anything other than cutting food at lunch. As has been mentioned above
 
dirc said:
Seriously do yourself a favor and get a Mora companion heavy duty for under $20 and abuse it, without worry. (and get the CPK EDC when affordable)
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A buddy of mine is in the well drilling and water treatment business. He's tough on trucks, equipment ... and knives. He has a beat up, scratched up and hardly ever sharpened or cared for Mora HD in carbon that he just can't kill. And - even if he does kill it or loose it, the cost is nominal compared to the alternatives.

RAT-1s, Cold Steel Voyagers and others in that price range allow for multiples and/or replacements with little noticeable degradation in performance for your intended uses.
 
Get a Leatherman and an inexpensive liner lock or utility knife for work and use the rest of your $ for a folder you care about and want in your pocket after work hours.

Good luck in your new job. :thumbsup:
 
Izula II
Small enough to be outta the way, but big enough for most jobs.
 
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