Help choose folder.

I can recommend the Opinel No. 10. I have used mine for all sorts of hard work, and it is still very solid and strong. Also, its thin blade is better at slicing than many of my other, more expensive knives.
Also the Spyderco Military is one that I have used a lot, and like very much. The blade is rather large, which is good for splitting small wood like you mentioned. Also, the flat grind makes it an excellent slicer, so that it does not bind in the material being cut.
 
One would be hard pressed to find a better folder for the buck than a Spyderco. Because they really do stand behind what they sell.
 
rcb2000 said:
Well it's shorter than you asked for, same weight as the North Fork you thought might be too heavy, and the steel is not in the same ballpark as Elmax or S30v,,,, but yeah it will be totally perfect.
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Sorry for that.
Not an easy task to find what I look for. But a folder Mora is the shit. I'm more than sure the Finn wolf will do as I tell it.

Thanks guys for all your help.
 
Why look all over the World when you have a very suitable knife in your own country? ;)

MinEKA92masur2.jpg


MinEKA92masur4.jpg


~Paul~
 
dePaul said:
Why look all over the World when you have a very suitable knife in your own country? ;)

~Paul~
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The grass is greaner Paul. :-)

Eka is great stuff. A couple of sunday nights with 000 and linseed on that wood and it´ll look 10 feet deep.
I have a wooden Eka 8 my self. Great price for good stuff. It´s too small for woodwork and has no thumbscrew which I miss.

Have a look at http://www.casstrom.se/knives/ for example if you like Swedish stuff. (A US dollar cost around 8,5 Swedish kronor)
 
Klabbarparn said:
1. I have a wooden Eka 8 my self. Great price for good stuff.

2. It´s too small for woodwork and has no thumbscrew which I miss.

3. Have a look at http://www.casstrom.se/knives/
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1. It's a nice knife though very different from the 92. The 8 is more of a gentleman's folder (deep hollow ground blade), while the 92 is a heavy duty outdoor folding knife (sabre ground/Scandi), suitable for wood working.

2. In your OP you wrote: "Been looking for the perfect slim 4" folder strong enough to handle some firewood splining (?). No batoning or other crazy handling, just making thin sticks for starting fire in the sauna, fireplace or so."
I thought you were looking for a wood carving knife? You don't need a fast deployment for that ;). The thumb stud is therefore unnessecary.

3. I know the Casström very well. I was amongs the first knife fanatics to buy 1 pcs of the first batch of the "Forest Knife" :). I consider the Co:s owner (David) to be my personal friend.

The Casström No. 10 - Forest Knife:
MinCasstrmnr10SwedishForestKnife.jpg


~Paul~
 
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dePaul said:
1. It's a nice knife though very different from the 92. The 8 is more of a gentleman's folder (deep hollow ground blade), while the 92 is a heavy duty outdoor folding knife (sabre ground/Scandi), suitable for wood working.
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Can you say more about the 92?

Knifecenter lists it as having a hollow grind blade.

Can the rear lock bar lever accept a lanyard and still work correctly?

How stout/reliable is the lock and joint compared to other lockbacks?
 
pinnah said:
1. Knifecenter lists it as having a hollow grind blade.

2. Can the rear lock bar lever accept a lanyard and still work correctly?

3. How stout/reliable is the lock and joint compared to other lockbacks?
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1. Does it?!? All of my fifteen EKA 92's are sabre ground. I also don't find any info on Knifecenter.com stating that it is hollow ground: http://www.knifecenter.com/item/EKA717708/EKA-Swede-92-Folding-Hunter-Black-Dryflex

Anyway, I know that there were several models in the EKA line that shifted from sabre/Scandi to hollow ground blades for a shorter period of time. Almost all of them are now once again sabre ground. Maybe it's the case with the 92 as well.

2. Very much so! It works IMO better than the generic way to fasten the lanyard through a hole in the handle. The angle is different and in my opinion better. I use the secure grip (thumb through the lanyard, rotate round the palm of your hand and grip the handle).

3. I'd say it's even more secure. I have all kinds of locks failing on me but never a lanyard tab lock.

~Paul~
 
dePaul,

Knifecenter lists hollow ground under features on that page.
Features

Concave/hollow ground blade
Polished finish
Lanyard hole
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I would love to see how you hold the lanyard. I can't picture it in my head.

I don't mean to be a bug but could you describe how the lock is stronger?

One problem I have with every lock back I own is when cutting wood and using a lot of force, the blade tang forces the lockbar up slightly (you can feel it if you leave your thumb on the lockbar while cutting) and eventually, over time, this "locker rock" wears out the pivot pin and lock bar pins. I've had several lock backs go from tight, to rocking to loose when using them for bushcraft/hard carving.

A sabre ground knife like the 92 seems like a dream knife for me, particularly in birch. Wow.

But the durability of the lockring keeps me with the Opinel, even though for this sort of use, I prefer a sabre grind to Opinel's' thin convex grind.

Thanks so much for highlighting this knife!!!

BTW, Amazon lists the 92 as concave/hollow grind too.
 
On the pricier side, look at the Al Mar eagle series. 4" blade, thumb stud, weighs 2 oz with the micarta handle and AUS 8 steel. G10 and ZDP-189 is around 3 oz.
 
pinnah said:
dePaul,

1. Knifecenter lists hollow ground under features on that page.

2. I would love to see how you hold the lanyard. I can't picture it in my head.

3. I don't mean to be a bug but could you describe how the lock is stronger?

4. One problem I have with every lock back I own is when cutting wood and using a lot of force, the blade tang forces the lockbar up slightly (you can feel it if you leave your thumb on the lockbar while cutting) and eventually, over time, this "locker rock" wears out the pivot pin and lock bar pins. I've had several lock backs go from tight, to rocking to loose when using them for bushcraft/hard carving.

5. A sabre ground knife like the 92 seems like a dream knife for me, particularly in birch. Wow.

But the durability of the lockring keeps me with the Opinel, even though for this sort of use, I prefer a sabre grind to Opinel's' thin convex grind.

6. Thanks so much for highlighting this knife!!!
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1. Seems like both variants are out there. This Swedish site lists it as Scandi ground/saber ground: http://www.casstrom.se/knivar/fallknivar/eka-knivar/swede-92-svart.html

Skandinavisk med sekundär egg (Translation: Scandi ground featuring a secondary edge).

2.
Fnglinegrepp.jpg


3. Unfortunately my English is not good enough to explain technical solutions :(. As I mentioned, I've had almost all types of locks failing on me but never a lanyard tab lock.

4. Bummer. I've had the ring on my Opinel No. 9 popping off with a loud sound and flying away in connection to lighter whittling.

5. Yeah, that's a nice knife, although the rubber version is IMO more practical. The birchwood version is a looker though ;).

6. Only happy to be helpful :).

~Paul~
 
How about the Helle Dokka? Laminated steel, lockback, Scandi grind, curly birch handle, etc.
[edit: Yes, it's a bit heavier than most at 4.5oz and a bit bulky, but that's why it comes with that leather sheath.]
947.jpg
 
Paul, pictures are worth a thousand word. In this case, maybe 10,000.

Regarding the Opinel lock ring, I've never had a ring pop off under hard CUTTING. I've had numerous people pop off the ring when I hand them the knife and forget to tell them about how it locks closed <face palm>.

I could also understand popping off a ring if the blade got stuck and one tried to rock the blade loose. Strong CLOSING force will certainly pop the ring off.

Note, I take off the ring and file down rhe top edge so that the ring rotates a minimum of 90 degrees to lock.

I just can't imagine popping a ring off under normal carving but I believe you. Just can't imagine it.

I'll start looking for sources for the sabre ground version. Stellar.
 
MaximIsayev said:
How about the Helle Dokka? Laminated steel, lockback, Scandi grind, curly birch handle, etc.
[edit: Yes, it's a bit heavier than most at 4.5oz and a bit bulky, but that's why it comes with that leather sheath.]
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A very fine knife but almost twice the price of the 92. I also find the grip on the EKA more comfortable for prolonged cutting sessions. The edge of the EKA goes all the way into the handle. So is not the case with the Helle. The Helle steel is however slightly better (not that much better ;)). It's propriatery manufactured specifically for Helle by a local factory.

The core:
C - 0.7%
Si -0.7%
S - 0.002%
Ph - 0.19%
Mg - 0.44%
Ni - 0.28%
Cr- 14%
Mo - 0.52%

Personally, I'd go with the EKA.

Two more candidate: http://www.kolumbus.fi/harri.merimaa/Folding knife.htm

~Paul~
 
pinnah said:
1. I just can't imagine popping a ring off under normal carving but I believe you. Just can't imagine it.

2. I'll start looking for sources for the sabre ground version. Stellar.
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1. I was as much surprised as you seem to be ;). I was, as I mentioned, whittling with a little more than moderate press, both lateral and horizontal. As I mentioned, almost light pressure.

2. Good luck!

~Paul~
 
I've got the No14 :-)

Thumbscrew for me doesn't mean fast deployment, I just like to be able to open the knife with one hand and since I still want a folder it seems to be a fair demand. The scandi blade is a great choise for everything except maby hunting purpose.

I sharpened my work knife yesterday and today I used it for a cut out in a wood panel. It worked its way through the wood like it was butter... Again, if I couldn't use both hands on the knife, I'd loose a lot of force.


https://flic.kr/p/BcVZ3V

I think the Finn wolf might do the same job pretty well.
 
Klabbarparn said:
I've got the No14 :-)

Thumbscrew for me doesn't mean fast deployment, I just like to be able to open the knife with one hand and since I still want a folder it seems to be a fair demand. The scandi blade is a great choise for everything except maby hunting purpose.

I sharpened my work knife yesterday and today I used it for a cut out in a wood panel. It worked its way through the wood like it was butter... Again, if I couldn't use both hands on the knife, I'd loose a lot of force.


https://flic.kr/p/BcVZ3V

I think the Finn wolf might do the same job pretty well.
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Ease of maintainance, good steel and very good ergonomics are the main assets regarding the 92. But if you thing the CS can compete so go for it ;).

Nice mora! There are a couple of those in my collection as well :).

You could buy an external thumb stud if you absolutely yearn for it: http://www.knivbutik.se/ovrigt/822-kwik-thumb-stud.html

~Paul~
 
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