Help Extracting a sheared ball end hex driver

Late to the party. I was also going to suggest dremel cutting a slot for a screwdriver.

If going that route, I would suggest taping a thin steel washer over the the screw head (tape the edges of the washer), with the head of the screw centered in the hole of the washer. The washer will act as a shield and protect the handle scale from the cutting wheel if you should have a slip.
 
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The way I see it you have 2 options if everything else has failed that others have mentioned above...

option 1: take all of the rest of the screws out of the frame, remove the blade etc. (basically disassemble it as far as possible other than the one stuck screw) and then you can turn the entire g10 half of the knife while using pressure to try and back it out that way.

I have no idea if this will work but I like how you think! I admire people who can think of solutions to problems like solving puzzles.
 
The screws in modern knives are there for ease of assembly, not particularly for disassembly.
 
I think I'm going to end up cutting a slot hopefully I can find some replacement screws eventually.
Thanks for all your help guys I really appreciate it. Next time I'm just buying regular hex drivers no more ball ends.
Anthony
 
No I tried razor blades tweezers pliers needles and anything els I could find to try.
I even tried freezing it than rapping it on a harddrive magnet. Hasn't budged as far as I can tell.
 
Nice try. It sounds and looks like it really bound up and wedged in place. Most screws are softer than the tool. The ball type Allens don't have as much surface contact area on the sides of the Allen slots as the straight shafts do. Actually its a very small contact area. So psi is much higher on that area when tightening instead of spreading it over all the Allen surfaces. That together with a soft screw head and bingo you get deformation and imbedding of the tool in the screw. Possibly this screw was defective to and not hardened/tempered properly.
Brownell's has a great selection of super high quality screws, or just contact the knife maker and they will send you some.
 
I might give strider a call but I don't have high hopes.
I'll probably bring one of the not messed up screws to a local fastener place I'm sure they can figure out the thread and get me some.
Even if I have to buy 100 of them I don't mind having hardware and if I ever come across someone else who gets in this jam I can send them some.
Thanks again D729
 
I haven't gone any further with it I haven't had time and I'm still hesitant to drill or cut it. I've actually been thinking of selling it at a discount, truthfully (not the knife fault or the manufacturer) but this whole experience has left me with a bad taste.
 
If it doesn't stick out and the screw is tight - why not just leave it alone and use the knife? I'm sure it will fall out eventually. And if not it's not a problem.
 
Drop it.

Seriously, throw it at the carpet a couple of times. Mechanic buddy of mine showed me this for getting bolts stuck in socets out, it worked when nothing else did.
 
I would leave it alone but im picky and something like this will slowly drive me insane.
 
I would leave it alone but im picky and something like this will slowly drive me insane.
Because the screw is tight, all other methods have not worked and you've got all the time in the world.
I would get a needle or some other hardened picking device and start poking around the outer edges of the ball driver.
If you can locate any dental picks, that would be even better.
I would attempt (through manipulation and picking) to provide clearance all the way around the head before attempting to remove it again.
Many times, if a person is very patient and meticulous, they can get the broken piece to move slightly.
Caution here should be noted though; you do not want use so much force (when picking) that you break a piece of the pick in there too.
That would be hurtful, not helpful.
If you get it to wiggle in place, you are one step away from getting it out all the way.
I would use the heaviest needle you can find that will still allow you to fit it in any open spaces available between the head and the screw.
Maybe even two needles eventually so you can lever one off the other, once the head has loosened up some.
I'm talking jewelers loop, very fine picking kind of manipulation.
I would not suggest something so meticulous to anyone unless it had worked for me in the past.
I would not add oil or any other lubricants into this picking type of scenario, too sticky, you want it dry.
There must be a burr of some kind holding this in place.
You will basically be clearing all obstacles from around the hole (burrs and such) and then once the object is free and clear of the obstacles; use the two needles to lever the head out.
If the head is very loose but does not seem to want to lever out; then that's a sure sign that not all the obstructions have been taken care of.
Return to poking/picking until all obstructions have been cleared.
 
Epoxy it in, making sure that none gets on the scale. Drill a small countersink and use an easy-out to remove it.
 
A ball hex is meant to remove already cracked/partially loosened screws in tough to reach areas. They are not intended for tightening or loosening tightened bolts due to their lower contact area with the bolt head. Get your self a set of good regular hex drivers for most tasks.

For the price of that knife, I would swallow the downtime and your pride and send it back to Mick if you can't easily remove it. One slip with a dremel or easy out(especially if you are not used to and practiced at using one) and you will be buying a new scale as well as screw set. I bet Strider might not even charge you to swap the bolt out.

P. S. Be much more careful about your torque when tightening. Especially on tiny screws like on these folders. Use just three fingers on the handle or get a torque wrench or driver if necessary. A tiny dab of Loctite 242/243 can be helpful as well.
 
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Yea I really regret going with the ball end variety I was torn between the 2 sets but I figured the ball end offered something more than the standard, what I didn't realize was the strength I was giving up.
I'm going to try contacting strider again and see what my options are. I'm fairly competent with a dremel and if I know I can get a fresh new screw it might convince me to cut the slot at extract it.
 
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