Help::: Identifying Use for Large Handmade Swedish Axe

This is a great thread. I am learning alot.

Aside from weight and angle of hang, I am a bit concerned about the edge geometry and overall thickness. From the first pictures, it looks extremely thick for a carver, and appears to be ground almost like a cold chisel.

To thick for most jobs, really, but I find that to be true in most edged tools. It does have a scandi grind so maybe its made for bushcraft.
 
This is a carpentry axe and would be a shitty choice to do carving. The cutting edge of the axe from the video has been unwisely altered by giving it a radius. The edge must be completely straight with sharpened to a point heel and toe. You can see this axe was forged by the smith Skog, the second of the Hjärtum blacksmiths, from the "S" stamp on the poll, and it seems his axes are thicker and heavier than the axes from the latest smith although his axes are highly sought after and command high prices as KK has pointed out. Still, it comes in 4 different sized versions. The form and use aside, probably the most critical aspect of this axe is the particular skill and technique of the forging and tempering process and to a lesser degree the laminated blade. These things cannot be copied although the company Wetterlings tries to pass off the carpentry axe it puts out as Hjärtumyxa and its rip-off of the name should be understood. Also the firm Gränsfors Bruks manufactures a similar carpentry axe, nowhere near the quality of the true version but at least they avoid the plagiarism. Also there is a Neeman version. Still like I point, out only the Whetterlings company goes so far as to blatantly lay unjust claim to the original which is a shame.
But the good old Hjärtumyxa is a very specified tool used in carpentry, to cut and fit joinery for example, particularly in the kind of, lets say Scandinavian log construction. The straight cutting edge and flat grind of around 10 degrees each way make it more difficult to use than a blade with a radius because more of the blade is entering the cut all at once - I'm just referring to my experience with the Gränsfors version I'd had till this week but have sold to help pay for the Hjärtum I'm getting sent down - but also more capable of making accurate cuts and for paring to get the right fit.

E.DB.
 
This is a carpentry axe and would be a shitty choice to do carving. The cutting edge of the axe from the video has been unwisely altered by giving it a radius. The edge must be completely straight with sharpened to a point heel and toe. You can see this axe was forged by the smith Skog, the second of the Hjärtum blacksmiths, from the "S" stamp on the poll, and it seems his axes are thicker and heavier than the axes from the latest smith although his axes are highly sought after and command high prices as KK has pointed out. Still, it comes in 4 different sized versions. The form and use aside, probably the most critical aspect of this axe is the particular skill and technique of the forging and tempering process and to a lesser degree the laminated blade. These things cannot be copied although the company Wetterlings tries to pass off the carpentry axe it puts out as Hjärtumyxa and its rip-off of the name should be understood. Also the firm Gränsfors Bruks manufactures a similar carpentry axe, nowhere near the quality of the true version but at least they avoid the plagiarism. Also there is a Neeman version. Still like I point, out only the Whetterlings company goes so far as to blatantly lay unjust claim to the original which is a shame.
But the good old Hjärtumyxa is a very specified tool used in carpentry, to cut and fit joinery for example, particularly in the kind of, lets say Scandinavian log construction. The straight cutting edge and flat grind of around 10 degrees each way make it more difficult to use than a blade with a radius because more of the blade is entering the cut all at once - I'm just referring to my experience with the Gränsfors version I'd had till this week but have sold to help pay for the Hjärtum I'm getting sent down - but also more capable of making accurate cuts and for paring to get the right fit.

E.DB.

I have seen many Hjärtums with a straight blade and upswept toe (from hitting the ground probably). I was thinking that this might make for a good compromise, usefull for carving/hewing and framing as well as general axe chores. I believe that is how it was used in the past, anyway, as the standard one axe solution.
Youre getting one? Thats awesome. What size and what kind of handle are you thinking?
 
Hello,
So far, in THE virtual way I have seen many egde shapes given these axes. All but one are wrong, that is the straight edge.
I know people find it difficult to work with this edge, that is no justification for THE alteration. By doing that you have shortened the useful life of THE axe considerably. If you want an axe for removing more wood faster, get another one and shape it to your pleasure, is what I would say.
But you are no doubt right about THE past use, but for now, considering these axes are scarce and will be even more so in the future we most advocate a conservative posture.
Claeson writes to say hè has it in THE post, 120 mm edge, 1.2 kg. I Will wait and see before making handeling decisions


E.DB.
 
I think Ernest is on the right track. Looks like a very competent timber framing tool. The weight would be an advantage when cutting joints. The closed hang will provide finer control than an open hang, and when working on log joints, barking your knuckles is not a primary concern as your hand will generally not be directly over the log but rather perpendicular to the side of the log.

A beautiful piece of work, no doubt.
 
Sometimes to understand a tool you must use it. That axe was no mistake.
Can't tell you the number of times I have seen new workers or management change tools or the way things are set up because they knew best only to discover later why it was that way to begin with.
 
Back
Top