Help me find my “for life” $300-500 “overbuilt” folder

stabman said:
You're right, no way a frame-lock could withstand the rigors of the woods...

Nope, can't survive at all. :D
Click to expand...

Haha good one. Shut me up.
1. I did have a suspicion that the double lug to frame is a strong design. Good to see it’s very true. I still think the tri ad is the strongest but perhaps the strongest is not needed.
2. Are you batoning with a full size tree?! Lol
3. Any particular blade geometry that you found is more useful in bushcraft techniques ?
 
It's a subjective thing, hard use. My dad has been abusing a Buck 110 for about 40 years. He's replaced it a few times simply because I have bought him a new one here and there, but it's stood up to more use that most. Honestly, I think his original one is a Craftsman knife based on the 110 he bought at Sears because he could take it back for a new one if he broke, no questions asked. Never had the need, and our local Sears is on the way out anyway:D

Like the others have said, it's tough to beat a ZT. The 630 is a beast, but not my favorite for woods work. The 301 would be a good one if you can find it. The 350 packs a bit easier and is my work knife of choice compared to my dad's 110.

I'm not sure how you feel about captive ball bearings, but I don't think I could break the 920 except under the most abusive of tasks. Nearly 4" of blade, solid titanium slabs, frame lock with steel insert. Rock solid. I just think the handle would get cold in the winter:D

My personal choice would be the 909. Criminally underrated.
 
jstn said:
I believe it is the grippy peel-ply over G10, like on the M4 PM2 and S90V Yojimbo 2. If so, it should provide great grip and be very durable.
Click to expand...

G10 covered in Carbon Fiber, so not like the PM2, I believe that is more similar to the domino scale.

Eric says it is G10 with a peelply carbon fiber layer
 
Question:
If "In the woods and camping" will be your main use, would belt carry be acceptable?

If belt carry would be acceptable, I would suggest the venerable Buck 110.
It already has a proven 50 plus year history of doing "fairly heavy use" (your words) in the woods, and jungles; including the battlefield.
(The Buck 110 was a very popular with the combat troops during the Vietnam War, regardless of their branch of service. From discussions I've had with the Vets of that war, "everyone" carried one."

You can get a standard Buck 110 new, for under $30.
If you want upgraded steel, there is the Buck Custom Shop, Copper and Clad, and SK Blades. The cost is higher, of course.
If you insist on one hand opening, you can put on a thumb stud or thumb bar (available at the big river site, and other vendors) for under $12.
BTW, all Buck 110's are made in USA. They have never been made offshore.

Buck has a "Forever" warranty, and they mean it. Even better, they do not care if you are the original owner of the knife.
Also, they do not charge you for warranty work. I've seen several posts and threads here on BF where it is said some companies charge for warranty work.
If you (or your heirs) ever decide you want the knife cleaned up (years worth of wear taken care of) you can send it in for a SPA Treatment, and it will look and act new again when you get it back.

Over in the Buck sub-forums, there is a thread on Which Buck in a Survival Situation. I am very sorry I do not remember the exact title.
Anyway, the 110 lead for a while, but I think it is currently in second place. The fixed blade 119 finally took the lead.
 
I feel that the ZTs with the large nut like the 300’s, 200, 620 and 630 were overbuilt. For the money if you can find one the 200 is a good deal.
 
I would suggest a CS Recon 1 like others have said. Honestly, I've lost a knife camping (old Gerber fixed blade back in the 90s). I can't imagine losing a Sebenza or Hogue. I know the simple response is "Just don't lose your knife" but it happens. A CS has a great lock and should serve you well for many years. I'd suggest the clip point version.
 
The 301 would be a good one if you can find it.
Click to expand...

ZT did a run of 0301s and 0303s not too long ago, and the 0303s (black handle/tigerstripe blade) are still readily available.
 
Last edited:
Do you want something overbuilt because your goal is to get something that will last a lifetime or because you will be putting it to heavy duty tasks and don't want something falling apart on you? What are the typical tasks you will be performing with the knife?
 
SharpieB said:
Yup, not very helpful post.

What would you recommend that wouldn’t dissappoint me then?
Click to expand...

I believe in the right tool for the right job. I would not use a folder in the woods and camping in that price range. Not that you couldn't, because you could. But it will not fair well over a long period of time and will not be easy to maintain in the woods. In a "For Life" scenario in the woods, I would get a great fixed blade (Esse 6, Bradford Guardian, Mora, Busse) and a small axe (Gransfords Bruks).

If you want to use a folder camping, look into a $200 or less blade with a back lock which is the most reliable with hard use. Brands like Cold Steel or Spyderco make great ones that are ultralight in your pack. If you are still dead set in a heavy use $300-$500 folder look into Chaves, Hoback, Grayman, ZT, WE, Rike, CRK, to name a few. But when you get lock rock or side to side play a year or two down the road due to bushcrafting, don't say I didn't warn you.
 
Haven’t read through the thread, but I’d go for a Satu (or the smaller one from gray man) or TSF Beast.
 
Low_rez said:
I believe in the right tool for the right job. I would not use a folder in the woods and camping in that price range. Not that you couldn't, because you could. But it will not fair well over a long period of time and will not be easy to maintain in the woods. In a "For Life" scenario in the woods, I would get a great fixed blade (Esse 6, Bradford Guardian, Mora, Busse) and a small axe (Gransfords Bruks).

If you want to use a folder camping, look into a $200 or less blade with a back lock which is the most reliable with hard use. Brands like Cold Steel or Spyderco make great ones that are ultralight in your pack. If you are still dead set in a heavy use $300-$500 folder look into Chaves, Hoback, Grayman, ZT, WE, Rike, CRK, to name a few. But when you get lock rock or side to side play a year or two down the road due to bushcrafting, don't say I didn't warn you.
Click to expand...
Fair enough. I am buying an ESEE 6 very soon as well and I agree that a fixed blade is essential. I like the ability to have a folder in my pocket around the cottage and campground as a large fixed tends to freak out the neighbours. Also, it’s nice to have a blade in my pocket.
 
SharpieB said:
Hey all,

I really want to buy a rock solid knife that will theoretically last me for decades of fairly hard use (mainly in the woods and camping).

I have lots of Spyderco’s, A ZT, a couple of Benchmades and an Italian Fox, so really looking for something “different” and more heavy duty. I will likely be buying my first Emerson soon as well.

I have looked at Medfords, but don’t want to spend $800 on a knife and not fond of the crazy rules around their warranty.

So what should I be looking at? Hinderer? Strider? What others?

Any ideas would be great.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Check out the following:

Large Chris Reeves, especially the Inkosi.

If you can find then a ZT 0620 or 0630. These are some of the toughest ZTs because they are on washers rather than most other ZTs sj ce thegby
 
I think some may disagree with this, but i think that the stainless handle spyderco endura and delica are very heavy duty. Absolutely zero blade play and the blade drops free when the lock is disengaged. I know many object to pinned construction, but consider the fact that people own slip joints that are decades old and sometimes older than a century and are still solid.

37027162353_1857515648_b.jpg


37027162593_297a5eecbf_b.jpg
 
F22shift said:
Haha good one. Shut me up.
1. I did have a suspicion that the double lug to frame is a strong design. Good to see it’s very true. I still think the tri ad is the strongest but perhaps the strongest is not needed.
2. Are you batoning with a full size tree?! Lol
3. Any particular blade geometry that you found is more useful in bushcraft techniques ?
Click to expand...

1) Tri-Ad probably is the strongest lock. I like having it on my Rajah 2. :) But so far, I have found that the strongest lock isn't a true necessity; I do like my locks to be strong enough though, for sure.

2) It is a rather huge baton. :D It's from an ironwood tree that was dead but standing, and has been the dedicated baton out at our spot for quite a while now.

3) I tend to like a full flat grind for woods usage, for the most part. A high saber grind works well too though. The Medfords and my CRK Umnumzaan are hollow ground though, and they have worked out well enough as well.

More important that the blade grind though, is the handle design, I think. Some knives start to feel really awful in the hand after a while, whereas others are a joy for extended use. :thumbsup:
 
SharpieB said:
Fair enough. I am buying an ESEE 6 very soon as well and I agree that a fixed blade is essential. I like the ability to have a folder in my pocket around the cottage and campground as a large fixed tends to freak out the neighbours. Also, it’s nice to have a blade in my pocket.
Click to expand...
Tell you what Sharpie, pair that ESEE 6 with a GB1 and you will want for not.
muVXRqa.jpg

But I don't blame you for wanting something different. Over built folders are mesmerizing to say the least. Looking forward to seeing which one you choose. :)
 
I'll just add that the batonning with folders in the pics I provided was done as a test, mainly because of how people were saying that the pivots or locks would be a point of failure.
As I have a bunch of stout fixed blades, both production and those I have made, folders do not get used for splitting or felling trees very often.

A saw and a fixed blade works best for the most part. ;)

When we had to clear out some huge, dead trees that could be a hazard by falling on people, we also brought out a full-sized axe.

A stout folder can be a great thing even when you have other equipment with you though, as long as it will still cut effectively.
My Buck/TOPS CSAR did not cut very well at all till reprofiled a bunch, and could still use a little more fine tuning to perform exactly as I would prefer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top