Help me pick a 6-8" fighting knife.

I have no idea what's currently available...but I'll try to stick to what I think might be.

A what appears to look like a CG version of gusbuster's ASH variant works too... Tanker Grey with black paper micarta mag handles.

Busse-ASH-1variant_Ganza.jpg


OTG/TGLB is an obvious choice. Here's a comparison pic with a matching OTG and a NMSFNO

Busse_NMSFNO-TG_90deg-rotatejpg.jpg


There's also a Finger Jack fighter (my own little name for them, LOL... it's a BOSS Jack variant)

BUSSE-BJ_FighterVariant-FG1-1_zps819ac6a5.jpg


This MO Tank Buster persian variant is another good choice. If the Custom Shop has TB blanks, they might be able to make something close to it if they don't wish to duplicate this variant style.

Busse-TB-v_MO-Pair.jpg


BOSS Jacks, DSF's and HG55's are also good choices.

BUSSE-CS-USC_Nuke_BOSS_Jack.jpg


Crappy pic... :o
Busse-CS_DSFv_3of6.jpg


BUSSE-TMDSF_Snow_2132014_zps72f38983.jpg


Busse_BJ-HG55_JSC-GBg10.jpg


Jackhammers are only cool if ya carry 2 matching ones. ;);) :D

Busse-Jackhammer_Pair.jpg


Any Hell Razor blanks left?

Busse_HellRazor-Bowie-variant.jpg


Anyway, you're in the sweet spot with the style and size. There's bound to be a whole ishtload of choices, even with the models currently available from the Custom Shop. :thumbup:

Good Hunting! :)



 
Jaxx, it's always a pleasure to see some of your collection sir. I especially like the Finger Jack Fighter, and clipped point Hellrazor.:thumbup::)
 
aaaa_cccc said:
I think by definition a fighter must be light and fast in hand, which eliminates almost everything mentioned here so far. Busse's are not fighters, no matter what the designation (typically). They are combat knives which place a high priority on utility and durability, with everything else being secondary like cutting ability and fighting characteristics.
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A book that had an impact on me was To the White Sea by James Dickey (all his books have). His (anti?)hero, Muldrow, bails out of a B-29 over the Japanese mainland carrying only his personal weapon, an 8" breadknife that's been ground to a straight edge, flexible for going around ribs, and light and fast for slashing. If I had to have a knife fight, I can't imagine I would do as well with my Dawson Sheffield Bowie as I would with a puukko or a fillet knife. I could go to my Gerber Mark II or an old Sykes Fairbairn as they're light and quick. But maybe I'm missing something, that there's a thing we're calling "a fighter" that's really not necessarily for fighting.

Regardless, everyone on Bladeforums should read Dickey's book, To the White Sea. It's time for me to read it again, I think.

Zieg
 
Well maybe I'm wrong here, but it depends on who you're fighting. If the fight is against individuals in civilian clothing then yes light and fast is best. However, if you're fighting individuals with military gear, armor, or other fabrics meant to lessen the personnel's susceptibility to a fatal knife wound, then you'll want a heavier or thicker stock knife that can penetrate with flexing laterally. My Scrap Yard Camo Regulator or my BUSSE NMSFNO would make short work of someone with any kind of "armor". My Busse MO Hell Razor Terror Monkey or my Kabar USMC would make short work of anyone with multiple layers of civilian clothing. My Ratmandu, my Machetes, or even my Morakaniv Knives would make short work of anyone with thin layers of clothing
 
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Rob_Mob said:
However, if you're fighting individuals with military gear, armor, or other fabrics meant to lessen the personnel's susceptibility to a fatal knife wound, then you'll want a heavier or thicker stock knife that can penetrate with flexing laterally.
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:thumbup:

Zieg
 
HG55 or STJAC. HG55 is probably the fastest, medium length Busse, but I think I'd grab the STJAC if both were within reach.
 
For a fight, which knife can beat a taliwhacker??? The ultimate fighting knife, perfect design, length, thickness, reciprene handle...
 
Know how you tell who is the winner of a knife fight?

Winner dies at the hospital instead of at the scene. :)
 
Andy the Aussie said:
... this followed by the TGLB. The SARGE/SAR handle is going to get slick with blood and I would wager see your grip sliding up onto the blade when plunges in. I have seen plenty of hand injuries from people who "slid up the blade" cause the grip was slick. I prefer the DSF to the SAR handle in this regard as well. The Tali looks and feels like it was designed to fight. It probably has just enough forward weight that a good downward chop will be damaging across flesh.
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Andy, I knew you were dangerous.......I had no idea. You Blues supporters have really gone through some changes lately. Regards from a terrified Queenslander.
 
md02geist said:
Know how you tell who is the winner of a knife fight?

Winner dies at the hospital instead of at the scene. :)
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I took a self defense course a few weeks ago. It was pistol based, but the instructor gave some statistics on knife fights.
What I took away from it.....don't get in one.
 
david tn said:
I took a self defense course a few weeks ago. It was pistol based, but the instructor gave some statistics on knife fights.
What I took away from it.....don't get in one.
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I've seen the results of several knife fights and stabbings first hand. Your instructor is absolutely correct.
 
david tn said:
Andy, I knew you were dangerous.......I had no idea. You Blues supporters have really gone through some changes lately. Regards from a terrified Queenslander.
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.... it's OK mate... I am a Cane Toad at heart, I stand proud in a room full of blue and support the maroon ... ;)
 
DSF, Boss Jack, HG55, Tank Buster, Hell Razor, BATAC.

If you need something bigger, you should have brought a FAL.
 
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