HELP: My Axes Are Not SHARP! What to do from here?

I don't think there's any advantage to shaving sharp, it's just fun to show off. A file and puck, or sand paper is all that is ever needed. I can get an axe close to shaving with that Simonds nucut file alone.

 

kiwi, keep using the Norton India stone you found of your Father's. That is what I use and it works great. It sounds like you haven't fully apexed the edge and have left a burr. The manner I work that stone is, use the coarse side with mineral oil and take the stone to the ax. Work one side until you feel a burr on the opposite side. Then Change sides and work that side until you feel a burr on the other side, remove the burr.
Then switch to the fine stone and do the same. That stone is 150 grit coarse side and 400 grit on the fine side. Here's a picture that shows the manner I use the stone. When using the coarse stone I rub in both directions, back and forth. When finishing with the fine stone I rub into the edge only. Use less pressure with the fine. DM

 

But the center of the bit is much thicker than the heel and toe are. If you have the same grind at all three places then it's leaving a ridge at the center where the bevel ends. This reduces penetration.

He's welcome to have all the opinions he likes.

 

A burr can give the false impression of sharpness. It is, after all, a very tiny bit of metal that can still cut.

 

From what I remember, this video contained a good explanation of the grinds - why and how they "happen" :

 

He's correct in that the shape of the cheeks should determine the shape of the grind. The intended use will also change the shape of the grind. And a woods axe will have a different grind than a competition axe which can be touched up after every 60 seconds of use.

 

Kiwi, that should remove the burr but not fully apexed in a spot. Or, if it was sharper after using a file and became dull with the stone, then your changing the edge angle. Which is easy to do. Learning to sharpen using the stone in hand method takes time, as there is a learning
curve. But stick with it as it's worth it. The angle I shoot for is: take a 4"X4" piece of paper, fold this in half, at the corner, that's a 45* angle.
Fold it again and that's a 22.5* angle. Hold that as you measure the angle for your stone work. That is about the most aggressive angle I can go without the edge curling after a few chops. Good luck and don't throw in the towel. DM

 

A 35° bevel would be good for carving but not good for limbing and such it is meant for control of penetration. Also don't worry about a really wide strop most are narrow and just fine. A nice old leather belt has always been a good a great choice, you can glue it to a board of similar width. Buffing compound or if that is hard to find some metal polish(IE chrome) from an automotive store works fine, I used to just dry out liquid chrome polish and use the powder that remains.

 

yeah, this is what i was going to say also - when you said it got duller with the stone.

just go easy on the edge with the stone

 

I agree with this. Sometimes when I sharpen an axe it does get shaving sharp, but that isn't ever really my goal. I figure if it feels pretty sharp, its going to do what an axe needs to do.

 

No, it doesn't need to be razor sharp. Razor sharp is a consequence of my full sharpening routine. But routine maintenance sharpening is just done with whatever fine (not extra-fine) stone I happen to have with me so it's never quite as sharp as after that initial sharpening and it doesn't make a lot of difference. But I at least want an edge that doesn't reflect light. And I want the bevel rolled convexly to the edge without having a ridge from a micro-bevel. And I want the bevel to be polished better than file finish. It should be at least fine stone finished. I think these things improve penetration enough to warrant spending the time.

 

Yes ^ I agree with, at least a fine stone finish. For better penetration and longer lasting edge. DM