Help needed with my new Naniwa 2K Green Brick

[Darryl D..]

Hey there everyone, This is my 1st post on the forum so I hope I’m doing this right... Anyway I’m a meatcutter for about 7 years now and just maybe 8 months ago our store got a new sharpening service and they suck! So I bought myself a couple Victorinox and have been sharpening them myself and I can’t get enough, I love it! I find it so relaxing... I would like to know what all you guys think of the Naniwa 2K GB ? Also what is the best technique? I have a King 1k/ 6k and a king deluxe 1200 also I’ve been starting with the 1200 and refine the burr on my GB just was hoping to get a better idea on the pressure, should I start with a little bit and ease up on it as I go or what .. any and all recommendations on how t use this green beauty is definitely appreciated!! Thanks everyone !!!

 

[Ripcord 82]

Hey there everyone, This is my 1st post on the forum so I hope I’m doing this right... Anyway I’m a meatcutter for about 7 years now and just maybe 8 months ago our store got a new sharpening service and they suck! So I bought myself a couple Victorinox and have been sharpening them myself and I can’t get enough, I love it! I find it so relaxing... I would like to know what all you guys think of the Naniwa 2K GB ? Also what is the best technique? I have a King 1k/ 6k and a king deluxe 1200 also I’ve been starting with the 1200 and refine the burr on my GB just was hoping to get a better idea on the pressure, should I start with a little bit and ease up on it as I go or what .. any and all recommendations on how t use this green beauty is definitely appreciated!! Thanks everyone !!!

Welcome aboard. I believe they call that green stone the green brick of joy. Great for use in your environment because of it's thickness so it is a good stone to maintain your edges during your busy day. Also since you cut meat, you know the importance of a toothy edge and the Green Brick will do you well at that.For stainless steel blades, I see no point in going beyond 2k because the more refine the edge gets,the quicker it will dull.I use trailing strokes when I sharpen my J knives for the kitchen and I try not to use to much pressure while doing it.Starting off,sure,the pressure I apply is firmer but as I process through my stones, I reduce pressure as I go. You want to get your edge sharp with the first stone and usually that is my 800 Chocera or a 1k Shapton Pro, unless I am reprofiling or repairing . I too have the King Deluxe 1k/6k and that's work well also. After I get the edge sharp on the first stone,it's all about burr removal from there so lighter pressure is needed.
Sharpening videos,such that are presented from Peter Nowlan is a good start for learning the proper technique and pressure used.Also Jon from Japanese Knife Imports also has a series of great sharpening videos to get you started in the right direction.I would only trust their videos and forget the rest of the youtube world.

 

[samuraistuart]

Can't add much to the good advice given above by Ripcord 82. I like the "Green Brick of Joy" quite a lot. The actual feel or "feedback" of the stone is quite pleasurable. Creamy smooth, and reminds me of my King 4000 and Suehiro 8000. Mine came with a little instruction paper that shows you how to keep the stone "happy"! It's a silicon carbide stone, but heavy on the binder and light on the SiC, which gives it the creamy soft feedback.

I only use edge trailing strokes on it, and hardly raise any mud. With edge leading, I never cared for the apex it made, but edge trailing changed all of that. As far as soaking, the instructions on how to keep it "happy" mention what to do. I forgot honestly, but IIRC the instructions say that it should be used as splash and go, it "can" be soaked for 5-10 minutes, but "not" to perma-soak it. I always soak the thing for 5-10 minutes, seems to work a little better and not load quite as easily. As far as pressure goes, edge trailing, I use a just a little bit of pressure (maybe a couple pounds??) at first, and then lighten up on the pressure towards the end.

Some people don't like the stone, and I can see why if your technique is off, mainly edge leading with pressure and mud. Doing this is GREAT for burr removal, but leaves a rounded apex. I always remove the burr on the coarsest stone I plan on using, and then alternate sides left-to-right / left-to-right on all stones after burr removal. Edge leading on the GB was giving me less than satisfactory results. Edge trailing and ever lightening pressure transformed my opinion of it. And there is a LOT of stone for the $$$, too.

With all that said, and just as a personal preference, 2k (8 micron) is even more refined than I like for meat/protein cutting. Usually I stop at 25 micron (DMT Fine), or a bit further at 16 micron (Shapton 1k). You might, if not already, try using your King 1000 (or 1200) as your finish/maintenance stone. They're soft, so like the GB, I recommend edge trailing and light pressure. Have the edge geometry and burr removal already done on a coarser stone, and finish/maintain on the 1k. Compare that edge retention with the 2k, and see if you really need a 2k stone. YMMV!

 

[Ripcord 82]

Can't add much to the good advice given above by Ripcord 82. I like the "Green Brick of Joy" quite a lot. The actual feel or "feedback" of the stone is quite pleasurable. Creamy smooth, and reminds me of my King 4000 and Suehiro 8000. Mine came with a little instruction paper that shows you how to keep the stone "happy"! It's a silicon carbide stone, but heavy on the binder and light on the SiC, which gives it the creamy soft feedback.

I only use edge trailing strokes on it, and hardly raise any mud. With edge leading, I never cared for the apex it made, but edge trailing changed all of that. As far as soaking, the instructions on how to keep it "happy" mention what to do. I forgot honestly, but IIRC the instructions say that it should be used as splash and go, it "can" be soaked for 5-10 minutes, but "not" to perma-soak it. I always soak the thing for 5-10 minutes, seems to work a little better and not load quite as easily. As far as pressure goes, edge trailing, I use a just a little bit of pressure (maybe a couple pounds??) at first, and then lighten up on the pressure towards the end.

Some people don't like the stone, and I can see why if your technique is off, mainly edge leading with pressure and mud. Doing this is GREAT for burr removal, but leaves a rounded apex. I always remove the burr on the coarsest stone I plan on using, and then alternate sides left-to-right / left-to-right on all stones after burr removal. Edge leading on the GB was giving me less than satisfactory results. Edge trailing and ever lightening pressure transformed my opinion of it. And there is a LOT of stone for the $$$, too.

With all that said, and just as a personal preference, 2k (8 micron) is even more refined than I like for meat/protein cutting. Usually I stop at 25 micron (DMT Fine), or a bit further at 16 micron (Shapton 1k). You might, if not already, try using your King 1000 (or 1200) as your finish/maintenance stone. They're soft, so like the GB, I recommend edge trailing and light pressure. Have the edge geometry and burr removal already done on a coarser stone, and finish/maintain on the 1k. Compare that edge retention with the 2k, and see if you really need a 2k stone. YMMV!

Very well said. Very good points to follow.

 

[Darryl D..]

Haha that’s exactly the videos that I’ve been watching ..those two and Burrfection as well, I’m. Just making sure I’ve been using the 2K brick right cause I roll my edge almost more then half the time .. I wonder if I’m spending to much time on refining or to much pressure? Maybe a little of both ? Thanks for the help man

Can't add much to the good advice given above by Ripcord 82. I like the "Green Brick of Joy" quite a lot. The actual feel or "feedback" of the stone is quite pleasurable. Creamy smooth, and reminds me of my King 4000 and Suehiro 8000. Mine came with a little instruction paper that shows you how to keep the stone "happy"! It's a silicon carbide stone, but heavy on the binder and light on the SiC, which gives it the creamy soft feedback.

I only use edge trailing strokes on it, and hardly raise any mud. With edge leading, I never cared for the apex it made, but edge trailing changed all of that. As far as soaking, the instructions on how to keep it "happy" mention what to do. I forgot honestly, but IIRC the instructions say that it should be used as splash and go, it "can" be soaked for 5-10 minutes, but "not" to perma-soak it. I always soak the thing for 5-10 minutes, seems to work a little better and not load quite as easily. As far as pressure goes, edge trailing, I use a just a little bit of pressure (maybe a couple pounds??) at first, and then lighten up on the pressure towards the end.

Some people don't like the stone, and I can see why if your technique is off, mainly edge leading with pressure and mud. Doing this is GREAT for burr removal, but leaves a rounded apex. I always remove the burr on the coarsest stone I plan on using, and then alternate sides left-to-right / left-to-right on all stones after burr removal. Edge leading on the GB was giving me less than satisfactory results. Edge trailing and ever lightening pressure transformed my opinion of it. And there is a LOT of stone for the $$$, too.

With all that said, and just as a personal preference, 2k (8 micron) is even more refined than I like for meat/protein cutting. Usually I stop at 25 micron (DMT Fine), or a bit further at 16 micron (Shapton 1k). You might, if not already, try using your King 1000 (or 1200) as your finish/maintenance stone. They're soft, so like the GB, I recommend edge trailing and light pressure. Have the edge geometry and burr removal already done on a coarser stone, and finish/maintain on the 1k. Compare that edge retention with the 2k, and see if you really need a 2k stone. YMMV!

.

 

[Darryl D..]

Hey man thanks for the info... I’ve been doing all edge trailing strokes with this stone . I just don’t think my technique is quite there yet . I got a great edge on my 8” breaking knife this morning but you’re def right about the retention it lasted maybe for a couple tops and it dulled , steeling seems t bring it back tho, It def makes the edge really crisp when done right.. My king 1200 edge is similar just not as much bite I would say but the edge last 3 to 5 8 hour shifts.. I gotta say I can’t believe how much I love sharpening my knives , well not just my knives my friends and family’s and a few of the guys from the meatrooms.. I look forward t coming home and sharpening every night it’s my new routine. ... anyways I’m rambling but cheers man thanks for all the info!!

 

[Darryl D..]

Ohh one more thing I’m thinking on getting a coarser stone I was thinking like a 500 to 800 grit what do u think would be good for my soft steel? Chosera 800? Or Shapton 1k? They are both ceramics right? Would u stay with the sic stones or try a ceramic ? I’d like t see how they feel ..

 

[CasePeanut]

Are you honing, stropping or steeling in between sharpening? Seems like that would be the next place to focus on maintain and improving edges.

 

[Darryl D..]

I

Are you honing, stropping or steeling in between sharpening? Seems like that would be the next place to focus on maintain and improving edges.

Ive been steeling at work but I’ve been stroppin a bit as well, I have a two leather strop, one with green compound and a bare leather strop also.. I’ve been reading that strops really don’t do much to the softer knives .. what do u think? I actually was thinking on trying horse butt strop thinking the harder leather with less nap but be better.. do you have any info on what type of any kind of strop material and or compounds would be good for soft steel?? Again sorry for all the Q n A i really have no one t talk about this , even my coworkers don’t worry about sharpening, and the ones that do just have a coarse/ fine oil stone and butchers steel ... not knocking it BTW just saying Waterstone are pretty much another language.. they were t me up until maybe 6 months ago ....

 

[CasePeanut]

I

Ive been steeling at work but I’ve been stroppin a bit as well, I have a two leather strop, one with green compound and a bare leather strop also.. I’ve been reading that strops really don’t do much to the softer knives .. what do u think? I actually was thinking on trying horse butt strop thinking the harder leather with less nap but be better.. do you have any info on what type of any kind of strop material and or compounds would be good for soft steel?? Again sorry for all the Q n A i really have no one t talk about this , even my coworkers don’t worry about sharpening, and the ones that do just have a coarse/ fine oil stone and butchers steel ... not knocking it BTW just saying Waterstone are pretty much another language.. they were t me up until maybe 6 months ago ....

There are a lot of different opinions on strops. Some love em, some hate them.

If you are already steeling the knives, you probably won’t need to strop them too. Both stropping and steeling should help maintain your edge between sharpening sessions. The difference between the two depends on the type of compound you have on your strop. A strop loaded with green compound will remove a tiny bit of metal and help keep a fresh edge. A traditional butchers steel won’t remove metal, just burnish the edge.

I’ve never worked in an intense meatcutting job like yours, but I like using a grooved ceramic steel for my kitchen knives. They are cheap, easy to use and take up very little room. The white ceramic steels keep the edge nice and clean. It is easy to see if you are removing metal on the white ceramic.

I usually just do very light edge trailing strokes if I need a quick touch-up. If the knife is starting to get dull with visible burrs then a few edge leading scrubbing passes followed by some edge trailing passes is all it takes to get back to a nice working level of sharpness. I find I can avoid going to the stones by doing this basic maintenance. It only takes a few seconds and doesn’t require any of the space or water required by stones.

 

[willc]

With Victorinox steel the green brick is a dream.
My wife’s kitchen knives are Victorinox and coming off the green brick I just lightly strop and they are good to go.

I like the feel of the stone but it tends to load quickly but that does mean it is cutting so I just hit it with a couple cleaning stone passes and keep going.

If I don’t soak it for a few minutes it is way to thirsty for my liking also.
For the price it is a great stone that should last a lifetime.

 

[Darryl D..]

I gotta say that the stone is really growing on me...I am really enjoying the feel of it .. it does refine my edge a bit to much for my job but I as long as I steel it after a couple cuts it’s not bad it brings it back .. i really appreciate all the replies and info all u guys threw my way so far ...

 

[Darryl D..]

I gotta say that the stone is really growing on me...I am really enjoying the feel of it .. it does refine my edge a bit to much for my job but I as long as I steel it after a couple cuts it’s not bad it brings it back .. i really appreciate all the replies and info all u guys threw my way so far ...

What kind of cleaning stone do u use in it? Is it a Nagura stone or rust eraser? What grit do u think would be best?

 

[Ripcord 82]

What kind of cleaning stone do u use in it? Is it a Nagura stone or rust eraser? What grit do u think would be best?

I use an Atoma 140 to flatten my stones. As you sharpen your knives you will eventually dish your stone so you will need to flatten it in order keep consistency in your edge.

 

[samuraistuart]

You asked about the ~1000 stone. I like the Shapton Pro ceramic. It’s hard and makes a nice apex. It’s just what I have and use. I also use a Norton 1000 (actually closer to 800 if you ask me!). Lower than that I use a naniwa Pro 400 and a suehiro chemical 320 (that stone is amazing for what it does....sheds grit like crazy and makes for FAST grinding and bevel setting...but is NOT an apex setter). Below that I use a Norton India C/F and a Crystolon C/F.

For “cleaning”, I use a cheap diamond plate. Roughly 220 grit. Doesn’t really matter too much as far as grit rating. Extra extra coarse even works fine. They also keep the stone flat. You can pay the price for a flattening plate, but I find that a cheap diamond plate works just fine...not only cleans the stone, it “conditions” it, and will keep it flat “enough”. Stones tend to get a dip in the middle if you’re sharpening technique doesn’t incorporate the far edges, so just hit the edges a little more with the plate to keep it flat. The softness of that stone makes it EASY to keep flat and in good surface condition. Even one of the little 4” diamond plates works fine.

Just for the info....I use a smooth ceramic rod for my “touch ups”. It’s roughly 1200ANSI, and does a great job on soft German cutlery as well as hard Japanese carbon steel (64HRC +). I don’t recommend at all using a regular butchers steel on hard Japanese knives (if you happen to sharpen them). The steel in the blade is often as hard (or harder) than a butchers steel. For me, the ceramic rod is more convenient than a strop. And 1200ANSI works great for me.

I have to sharpen a blade in A2 (61hrc) this afternoon. This thread has my blood flowing a little! Might just have to use the GB on that knife!

 

[bucketstove]

Hey there everyone, This is my 1st post on the forum so I hope I’m doing this right... Anyway I’m a meatcutter for about 7 years now and just maybe 8 months ago our store got a new sharpening service and they suck! So I bought myself a couple Victorinox and have been sharpening them myself and I can’t get enough, I love it! I find it so relaxing... I would like to know what all you guys think of the Naniwa 2K GB ? Also what is the best technique? I have a King 1k/ 6k and a king deluxe 1200 also I’ve been starting with the 1200 and refine the burr on my GB just was hoping to get a better idea on the pressure, should I start with a little bit and ease up on it as I go or what .. any and all recommendations on how t use this green beauty is definitely appreciated!! Thanks everyone !!!

Hi,
See cliffstamp.com/knives/reviews/naniwa_aotoshi.html

 

[Darryl D..]

There are a lot of different opinions on strops. Some love em, some hate them.

If you are already steeling the knives, you probably won’t need to strop them too. Both stropping and steeling should help maintain your edge between sharpening sessions. The difference between the two depends on the type of compound you have on your strop. A strop loaded with green compound will remove a tiny bit of metal and help keep a fresh edge. A traditional butchers steel won’t remove metal, just burnish the edge.

I’ve never worked in an intense meatcutting job like yours, but I like using a grooved ceramic steel for my kitchen knives. They are cheap, easy to use and take up very little room. The white ceramic steels keep the edge nice and clean. It is easy to see if you are removing metal on the white ceramic.

I usually just do very light edge trailing strokes if I need a quick touch-up. If the knife is starting to get dull with visible burrs then a few edge leading scrubbing passes followed by some edge trailing passes is all it takes to get back to a nice working level of sharpness. I find I can avoid going to the stones by doing this basic maintenance. It only takes a few seconds and doesn’t require any of the space or water required by stones.

Ok great... thanks again! I’m super stoked about this forum and all the info!

 

[Darryl D..]

You asked about the ~1000 stone. I like the Shapton Pro ceramic. It’s hard and makes a nice apex. It’s just what I have and use. I also use a Norton 1000 (actually closer to 800 if you ask me!). Lower than that I use a naniwa Pro 400 and a suehiro chemical 320 (that stone is amazing for what it does....sheds grit like crazy and makes for FAST grinding and bevel setting...but is NOT an apex setter). Below that I use a Norton India C/F and a Crystolon C/F.

For “cleaning”, I use a cheap diamond plate. Roughly 220 grit. Doesn’t really matter too much as far as grit rating. Extra extra coarse even works fine. They also keep the stone flat. You can pay the price for a flattening plate, but I find that a cheap diamond plate works just fine...not only cleans the stone, it “conditions” it, and will keep it flat “enough”. Stones tend to get a dip in the middle if you’re sharpening technique doesn’t incorporate the far edges, so just hit the edges a little more with the plate to keep it flat. The softness of that stone makes it EASY to keep flat and in good surface condition. Even one of the little 4” diamond plates works fine.

Just for the info....I use a smooth ceramic rod for my “touch ups”. It’s roughly 1200ANSI, and does a great job on soft German cutlery as well as hard Japanese carbon steel (64HRC +). I don’t recommend at all using a regular butchers steel on hard Japanese knives (if you happen to sharpen them). The steel in the blade is often as hard (or harder) than a butchers steel. For me, the ceramic rod is more convenient than a strop. And 1200ANSI works great for me.

I have to sharpen a blade in A2 (61hrc) this afternoon. This thread has my blood flowing a little! Might just have to use the GB on that knife!

That’s great man , actually the first stone I got was a Sharpal coarse / fine diamond plate last November, it’s prettg much worn down on the fine aide and the coarse side is wearing fast but I’ve been using that as a lapping/ flattening stone .. I really am chomping at the bit t sharpen something harder with a bit higher hrc .. I need t start putting money away t buy a used Shun or even a Spyderco knife with a quality high carbide steel t go t town on! Only problem is I won’t leave my man cave for days haha .. first things first I’d like t get a coarser stone .. my wife thinks I lost my mind man haha I haven’t gone this bonkers over something since I was kid and started surfing 25 years ago! Thanks for taking the time to write me back with all this info

 

[CasePeanut]

That’s great man , actually the first stone I got was a Sharpal coarse / fine diamond plate last November, it’s prettg much worn down on the fine aide and the coarse side is wearing fast but I’ve been using that as a lapping/ flattening stone .. I really am chomping at the bit t sharpen something harder with a bit higher hrc .. I need t start putting money away t buy a used Shun or even a Spyderco knife with a quality high carbide steel t go t town on! Only problem is I won’t leave my man cave for days haha .. first things first I’d like t get a coarser stone .. my wife thinks I lost my mind man haha I haven’t gone this bonkers over something since I was kid and started surfing 25 years ago! Thanks for taking the time to write me back with all this info

Sharpening is fun! If you want fun and inexpensive coarse stonesyou should check out the amazing American Mutt and Manticore stones from Baryonx Knives. The stones are cheap enough that you can get both and still have money left over to buy a knife! He is a supporter so I can leave a link here: http://www.baryonyxknife.com/bprshst.html

 

[Edgy 1]

Of all my waterstones the Naniwa 600 is my favorite in feedback.